ATS 093 install thread
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,840
Likes: 1
From: On the prairie
then i re routed all of the fuel lines as mine came up that side.
supply lines or return line? My return goes down the driver's side, I read in DP that the injector return lines/T's need to be rerouted in some matter.
After this is done, id put in the new trans tube. what kind of trans do you have again? E4OD-the correct tube is included.
Then bend the firewall. do the cuts like i showed in the pics.
I was actually thinking about using a slide hammer from inside but I have no idea as to how much working room there is in the cab for it.
Dont forget the never seize on the downpipe and up pipe slip connections.
I might as well put that stuff in a grease gun for the amout of it I go through
if you use the riser from the oil pressure sender on the back of the block, drill out the hole larger to allow for more oil flow. more will come to me but hey, its all on fly!
It wouldn't be necessary for me to use the factory sender at all since I run mechanical gauges, direct fiting to the block?
supply lines or return line? My return goes down the driver's side, I read in DP that the injector return lines/T's need to be rerouted in some matter.
After this is done, id put in the new trans tube. what kind of trans do you have again? E4OD-the correct tube is included.
Then bend the firewall. do the cuts like i showed in the pics.
I was actually thinking about using a slide hammer from inside but I have no idea as to how much working room there is in the cab for it.
Dont forget the never seize on the downpipe and up pipe slip connections.
I might as well put that stuff in a grease gun for the amout of it I go through
if you use the riser from the oil pressure sender on the back of the block, drill out the hole larger to allow for more oil flow. more will come to me but hey, its all on fly!
It wouldn't be necessary for me to use the factory sender at all since I run mechanical gauges, direct fiting to the block?
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
i had to re run some lines a long time ago as the metal ones were shot, didnt ever plan to have turbo so i had to re route it over to the drivers side. For the return lines, you can either get a three prong return cap or just get longer 1/4" hose to run it in front of the intake manifold neck. I used the insulating tape made by cool-it and wrapped the fuel line. never gets hot. For the oil line, i dont know where that flexible line of yours will go but it will either be the drivers side of the block near the oil cooler or the back of the head on the passenger side where the stock one goes. The riser is there so it makes it easier to thread on a line or sending unit. Your choice.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Let the painting project begin....yeah right, rain rain rain rain rain......sheesh. I need to find a good air compressor first then i can really plan it out. Just going to build a simple plastic and 2x4 paint tent. Leave a slit on one side to squeeze in and out of, and tape it up to "bake" with a heater once painted out.
One day.
As for black, i have read that if you use the thermal barrier insulation on the ceiling of the cab, it is not too bad. The interior will be mostly protected with tint once it all comes together. Then the window vent shades and a cracked window, all is well! lol.
So yeah one project ends and several others begin. Getting one of the glow plug harnesses and another IP for bargaining. things to do.....things to do lol.
One day.
As for black, i have read that if you use the thermal barrier insulation on the ceiling of the cab, it is not too bad. The interior will be mostly protected with tint once it all comes together. Then the window vent shades and a cracked window, all is well! lol.
So yeah one project ends and several others begin. Getting one of the glow plug harnesses and another IP for bargaining. things to do.....things to do lol.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
where'd you get that whole setup and how much$$$? I'd like a pillar pod but I wonder if it would make the transition to the 78 cab when it comes time to swap. Turbo should be on my step tommorrow!
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
55 for the triple pillar, 160 for the pyro, 50 for trans temp, 45 for boost gauge. All from autometer. Should be broken down somewhere in this thread by part number. the pillar wont mesh well with any other year but can be easily adapted and modified.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
does your kit atatch the the turbo's exhaust-in pipe to the cast collector with a ball and socket type joint. Thats what this kit has and I can't see how that can seal well. Also, unless they are in package two, I'm missing the pressure hats o-ring and the grommet for the drain tube. I was also wondering if the whole setup could be run without using the CDR, I just don't like the idea of that much oil going through the turbo...
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
yes it is all pressure fit ball and socket, the DP does the same thing if you have the upgrade but it is just a slip fit. If not then you have a PITA clamp to deal with. they are probably in the other package but out of the two you only need the CDR fitting. The pressure hat can be done with silicone. If you dont run a CDR you will probably have a lot of oil leaks or one big one. If the crankcase is at positive pressure, then you will have a lot of problems. The CDR keeps it at a vacuum state which is better than a small amount of oil mist going through the turbo. How bad is your blowby. If it is horrible, you could rig up an external CCV filter but if it will work and at what cost should be the questions.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
If its not that big a deal, I'll run their cdr setup. I'd like to do the install this weekend but I'm missing the heat shield and the drain tube grommet. I could maybe fab up a shield but I don't yet know what diameter the grommet needs to be, I was thinking of using 3/4" suction hose which is about 1" to 1 1/8" in diameter and sealing with ultra grey. Other than that the kit is in pretty darn good shape, good paint, no dents in the pipes or messed up threads. Looks like the guy who took it off knew what he was doin. I didn't get any numbers off the exhaust housing but the compressor housing is .70 A/R.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
you will know the type of exhaust housing you have by looking at it. Is is 3" in dia and is the DP just mandrel bent exhaust pipe with no fittings at either end?
Essentially, does it look like this.....
Or does it look like this with the lip.....
Essentially, does it look like this.....
Or does it look like this with the lip.....
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: On the prairie
its the top one. I'm now wondering if I can get away without the heat shield if I wrap the exhaust housing and downpipe as well, I was figuring on wraping the crossover and up pipe anyway. And is relocating the glow plug relay an absolute necesity? ATS's instructions don't make mention of moving it...