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on the air filter box there is a plastic device, and on the top of the snail is a fitting/ tube i'm gessing they are for the gagues, how did you get them into the cab. do you have any pictures of that
after hearing your video ,,,,,,,,,,,,i'm so excited
the plastic device tells you if the air filter is restricted. A gauge in itself, but not required at all.....if you do proper maintenance on your air filter.
The little square head 1/8" pipe thread on the snail is where i put my boost gauge. Just get the gauge and it should have the fittings you need except the male to male 1/8" coupler needed to go into the snail, and up to the gauge. If you dont understand that let me know.
On the firewall, there will be a hole with bushing, just put the tubing through there and anything else like pyro's which are needed.
Nailed 900 today roasting a dodge 12V uphill hahahahaha.
Have a quick question about firewall insulation. Yesterday my son noticed the floor board getting hot when we were ripping up a hill, would it be best to insulate inside the engine compartment along the firewall or inside the cab under the flooring? Is there a best product? Lordco wants about 50 bucks for 4 sq feet, that seems a bit steep.
I would turn your IP down a bit, you shouldn't be hitting 900 going up a hill empty, you should hit 900 going up a hill with a 10K trailer behind you. My truck had the factory floorboard heat shields so my floor board stays normal.
thinking the same thing lol. but id like to insulate that area regardless because in the winter its nice but i can tell that summer on that side would be bad.
thinking the same thing lol. but id like to insulate that area regardless because in the winter its nice but i can tell that summer on that side would be bad.
Probably melt the rubber floor mats, lol. Yeah, if I had to insulate the area, I would just wrap the pipes w/ heat wrap instead of putting heat insulation in.
Yeah well calling around the matting is 50+ bucks for 4sq/ft and 175 for 20 sq/ft the wrap is looking better and better for the down pipe. Guess i can just do that. All else is wrapped, so id imagine the heat is coming from the big DP. Without matting of some kind and no wrap it gets hot lol. Think ill just try it flat at a time to see how much the temps lower. Or i could play with timing again haha
Yeah well calling around the matting is 50+ bucks for 4sq/ft and 175 for 20 sq/ft the wrap is looking better and better for the down pipe. Guess i can just do that. All else is wrapped, so id imagine the heat is coming from the big DP. Without matting of some kind and no wrap it gets hot lol. Think ill just try it flat at a time to see how much the temps lower. Or i could play with timing again haha
I'd worry about putting that stuff too close to the downpipe if you put on the exterior of the cab. On the inside it should be ok. I just installed a ton of that stuff covering the ceiling of my garage, its really made a difference keeping it warmer in there. It did quiet things down a little as well I think.
Beware of the R-values the site gives, those are completely bogus. Radiant barrier insulation needs an airspace on one or both sides of it to be most efficient. Probably not a big deal in a truck, but for anyone reading that and thinking its actually better than 2 inches of fiberglass, they're way off.
Seen here for more info on low-e insulation: Insulation for Less : Prodex : Reflective Insulation : Pole Barn Insulation : Metal Building Insulation : Bubble Insulation
Update, intake boots found to be back ordered. found some international intercooler reinforced tubing sold by the foot. didnt look too bad in the end. Still want my silicone elbow but alas i wait! lol
that is approx a 45 and it points down to where i have the cutout for cold air, made a huge diff in boost and egt. But only at high speed. Thinking an intercooler maybe? hahaha wifes gonna kill me
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