When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Update: I bought this and popped the pitman arm right off and then the tie rod end in the other end of the pitman arm. Best money spent EVER. I followed the directions to a T and it worked AWESOME. I am now waiting to get the upgraded steering linkage modified (cut, tapped for the thread in heims) and then going to use it.
Oops forgot the link. I got mine from Auto Zone because they had it on hand. I bought it out of their tool loaner program inventory. So yes cost more ($100) than if you can order and wait to get it from Amazon or Summit Racing. But still is the best puller I have ever used.
Just know that is does not work like just a tension puller only, even though it can. It works as a tension and hammer force/impact puller. Like I said, I read the directions on the box and once the tension screw is hand tight with a wrench (NO IMPACT USED).
And you have the adapter collar on there. That collar helps keep the adjustment screw centered on the end of the sector shaft. The collar is what is at the end of the chain, and you get 2 different sizes. And yes you have to take the chain off of them, to use them.
Once it is all on there, and hand tight, you then hammer on the end of the tension screw, like ONE time, not like a 20 hit with a 5lb sledge. Yes that seemed odd to me also. With the tension on the pitman arm from the adjustment screw and the ONE hammer tap, it popped it right off.
I tried to wrench tighten only the arm off, with no luck. And I could of used my Milwaukee 18V impact and tightened the adjustment screw that way and tried to pressure it off. But I have enough gear pullers with jacked up threads.
It also worked perfect for the tie rod end that was in the other end of the pitman arm.
the Tiger, bottom of the Amizone (I hate Bezos, never buy from him if U can avoid) page is all I ever need. It covers
more territory than regular pullers (fuller cup). Less moving parts. Either its gunna break or the p. arm will. It’s never. I need it for modern hubs too. Some coming in are v e r y stuck. This thing (OEM’s) might work on those.
Wonder what the cone nose (pin on end) would do. They all give at some point~
That puller you got looks like it could be useful in many different applications beside just pit man arms
The last pit man arm that I took off of my 93 F150 I broke 3 of these OEM 25262 pullers
So on attempt number four I got the OTC 8150
It worked great but there was so much force applied to it I was afraid to be under the truck with it for fear of flying metal in the explosion I was sure was about to happen.
The conical style pullers seems to stay put very well and don't deform when under pressure.
Yes that bottom one is similar to the p/s pump pulley puller. I am getting one of them next, thanks for the part #. I am also looking at a similar design one that is a u-joint press.
Now that I have the pitman arm off, I am working with a machinist buddy to get in his shop and get the chromoly steering linkage rods cut down and retaped for the heim joints.
Well my paint and body work buddy said he had some left over red paint and offered to do the needed fiberglass repairs and then shoot some paint on it. I said go for it. Now it really shows how badly faded, oxidized and beat up the fenders are. Yes the gaps are atrocious due to the front end taking a little shot in the dvr fender. It is a crawler, I do not worry about gaps, they help with engine compartment air flow. And yes that is a rectangle hole cut in it from the PO.
Seems they could not get the elec fan mounted any lower, so they just cut the hood. I did a little core support trimming and got the fan centered on the radiator. I had my buddy leave it in there because that is my handle for removing it by myself, I do not have any hinges on the back edge. I just use a bungie cord thru the cowl vent holes. I also got my upgraded steering linkage back from my machinist buddy after a cut down and tap new threads for heims.
After my buddy (same one that just painted the hood) did a buffer polish job on the rest of it, quite a while back though. And I squirted some black on the parts that need it.
And the grill back then, that I need to redo now. This was track bar hdwr replacement...always something.
all way sumpin.
thnx for the posts and esp the pic.
reminds me of Molly’n Dolly, the percherons we ran in the woods. Dwn in the muck’n guck
all wk, curried’n in shinny harness for the pull at the fair a few wkends/yr. As my mom said to
me on Sundays “You clean up nicely."
So got my new to me and now cut down to the correct length and machined for the Bullet Proof Steering set up. I have all the (rod ends, shims, retainers, bolts ect...). I had to drill the knuckles up to 1" and use a 1" to 3/4" step down insert/shim. Why, because ONE was already straight drilled up to a 7/8" way too early in the game.
Yes I made a "getting in a hurry" mistake. I need them to be 3/4", but I was going down a different design path and changed my plan after I drilled. Is what it is now, I still have plenty of meat left on the knuckles, so no worries there.
None the less BOTH are drilled, both have the insert, pitman arm is set up and I am almost ready to get the complete system installed. I am waiting on a little tech help from the BP Steering guy for the correct set up on parts in between the rods, for a over the knuckle set up. I believe I have to order a few more items from him.
possibly the guy who started that co., BPSS (sold it to current owners) sent me a 4.1 i6 motor out of (yes the typical) a
mustang they put the bent8 into. Started it with his bronk. That & the ram assist steering was pretty innovative at the time.
Why would one choose that or the cross steer? Higher lift? Multi-purpose? Cost? I hear not to mod-in the rod end (heim joint)
for on road use. I saw the price on the knuckles for cross steer & said no. Machining the one on the jeep here (where it
seems to have started & still reigns) might be less including other parts. Too much to do before that’s even more’n thought about...
Some say the crossover and highsteer can help with some of the steering linkage (crazy angles you get with a giant lift) and make the steering geometry better. Mine was already done as far as the tie rod (on top of the knuckle mount) AKA TRO (tie rod over) aka tie rod flip. The PO built it from unknown (to me) tie rod ends and it only had one removable/replaceable tie rod end.
All the rest was welded, even pieces of pipe were used...worked well for a off road only rig, but all the ends are getting worn, so I decided to upgrade. I would not buy BPSS new, that is quite a bit of $ to me too. I got a smoking cheap deal on a complete USED Bullet Proof set up that came off a fullsize Bronco.
I'd just read up on your state rules/laws as far as rod ends/heim joints and hydro assist steering. I believe in some states full hydro is even legal?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
