The rear doors are cut for speakers? I never bothered checking mine, it never had a working radio. If it did, I wouldn't have it on anyways, I was always listening for a "new" death noise. I have cut my (standard) cab before, I was happy with the results. The pro was now I had a 4 way speaker system, with the extra space behind the seat, no speaker boxes. The con, for some people, cutting a cab is a cardinal sin, and detracts from the value of the cab. I would do it again. As far as patching the hole, yea its only welding, but most people cannot weld/patch up sheet metal without making a HUGE mess.

 

Sorry - had a brain fart there. With all the general BS talk going on I forgot we were in the crewcab thread and thought you were referring to the front doors.

As for cutting/drilling the rear doors - I'd still rather make a new interior door panel to cut a speaker hole in (use your stock one as a template) than cut a hole in the cab. If you make a new, interior door panel then you can keep the stock one and not really modify the truck too much. As for hearing the speaker though the door panel - you'd have to modify the door panels - which I guess are harder to find and more expensive than a new cab. I'd modify mine to be like the fronts to have little holes in the "slits" along the bottom

 

I rekon folks are still OK with havnig bulky speaker boxes takin up room! Besides, cab corners have more room for the sound to resonate! DEEPER BASS YO! Newer trucks shoehorn speakers in the cab corners, so why cant we?

 

I put 6" speakers in my crew's B pillars (sorry, no pics), and LOVE the results! As stated, you gotta measure very carefully, but they do fit about 5" below the shoulder belt mount (puts the speaker right next to your shoulder). Got the music up off of the floor, and kept the speakers out of the rain..

 

Nice to see a CC forum. I have 2 CC. See my gallery. My 79 4x4 I have now been working on for the last 7 yrs. The cab is in the shop getting paint 6500.00. Worth it. Still going to be another yr before I get it done.

I have 2 questions :1st , Where can I get the chrome drip rails?

2nd : If I stick a 4 inch lift under it what is the tallest tire I can run?

Thanks.

 

1. Dunno
2. 36-38" tires depending on your width offset, and rim width. Expect possible rubbing on your leaf springs.

 

Bgrbug,
You can get the chrome drip rails from Dennis Carpenter. Just put a set on my Crew about 8 months ago.

 

hey thanks, i was wondering about the drip rails too. also i found some good parts from a company called "Flashback F-100's". i got a fairly good used headliner from him for my 73 crew.
i was looking through his catalog and also LMC and found some reproductoin headliners for 73-79 ford regular cabs and 78-79 broncos. the bronco cab front headliner is different than the truck headliner, which one of these headliners would i need for the front half of my headliner in my crewcab?

 

oh, ya. one of you guys said you never seen "crew cab special" badges before. the link to the pics on this forum for a picture of what the badges look like is:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...186878&width=0

if the link dont work just type this address into the top of your internet explorer and the pic will come up. i think they were on a 1973 crew, but nit sure what the guy said they were on, forgot to read that part.

 

On my 77 F250 crew cab short bed the body molding on the short bed drivers side, has the polished aluminum with black rubber insert molding. The molding with black rubber insert on the drivers side goes from the very front of the bed to the very rear drivers side running light with the black rubber insert stopping about one inch from the front of the rear running light. However on the passenger side the black rubber insert goes from the front of the bed but stops approximately three inches from the front of the rear passenger side running light. ( at the seam where two pieces of the aluminum molding join) this creates a two inch gap of no black rubber insert just in front of the running light. Their is also a quarter inch hole in the molding where the gap is but their is no matching hole in the bed body for an attachment.

I removed the molding a year ago to do body work and paint and I don't remember seeing a gap in the molding when I removed it. I am now re installing the molding and I can't remember what would cause that gap. I know the rubber did not shrink or get cut or trimmed, and I haven't removed the rubber from the molding. I marked the molding when I removed it and I am sure it is in the correct place.

I would appreciate hearing from those who have been their done that, or post a relative close up picture of the passenger side molding focusing on the center of the rear side running light to one foot in front of the light.

Thanks in advance

 

Sorry, for the confusion on my previous post my problem is on the DRIVERS side not the passenger side.

 

Todds79 TY so much it's been driving me crazy looking for it

 

the front crew headliner is the same as a regular cab with about 1/8 trimmed off the rear. the detents for the rear screw reliefs are only barely evident. I have pretty much used up all the spare center trim strips I had (my XLT was clear with chrome plating) I either need to find a repro, or I will have to make a custom headliner(s) for my remaining two crews.

 

anybody got any rear doors around KY or some shells they'd ship?

 

Ok, I have run across a 74 F250 CC 2wd, $900 wife says if I buy it, OR any other "new" truck I will be sleeping eating and,,, well you know, SO,,,,, this lady wants to get rid of it, it has a 460/4bbl/C6 California truck, in good shape, I just got a quick look at it, it seems to be in good shape, I would give her $800 and pass it on to anyone for that if anyone is looking for one.