Need some input here guys. Got in the truck this morning and it wouldnt start. Just cranks and cranks. This didnt happen over night. Heres a little background. Starting about a month ago my truck started to take longer than normal to start, sometimes up to 10-15 seconds of cranking. Then maybe a week or so later the problem just went away and started up like it should. About a week after that im driving along and the engine kind of lost power for a few seconds, threw a check engine, and then went away. Last night on the highway it hiccuped twice at about 70 mph. Then coming home last night it took about 30 seconds if cranking to start. Now today, no starting at all. Where should I begin. I already checked to easy things, hpop level, fuel heater fuse, battery terminals. Also, my tach moves when I crank. Although last time the cps went I had tach movement. What do you fellas think?

 

Whens the last time you check the fuel filter?

It contributed to issues with increasing speed and trying to maintain high speeds.

 

Its fairly new. But it'll take me 2 mins to run outside and check it out.

 

Here is some reading for you ...


It is from Diesel Mans Page.....


Hard start/long crank--cold only:
This usually indicates a problem with the glow plug system.
Disconnect the Engine Oil Temp (EOT) sensor at the rear of the oil reservoir. This will cause the PCM to energize the glow plug relay for 2 minutes, and set a code. Turn the key to the run position and check for any voltage drop at the outlet side of the glow plug relay. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts during the glow plug cycle.
There is a history of burned and melted relay terminals and a couple of updated relays. Most recent part number is F7TZ-12B533-CA and can be identified by a gold-colored base.
If there is no voltage out of the relay, check for voltage in at the main terminal as well as key power and PCM-controlled ground at the two-wire connector. On 97 and newer vehicles inspect the bank circuit divider shunt for damage. If the relay tests fine test the glow plug resistance to ground at the valve cover connectors. The glow plug terminals are the outer two on 94-97, outer four on 98.5/99. Resistance should be 0.1-6 ohms depending on engine temp. A high reading could be the result of a spread or damaged Under Valve Cover harness or damaged valve cover gasket; re-check any high readings at the glow plug itself. Damaged UVC harnesses can be repaired with kits F7TZ-14489-AA for 97 and -BA for 94-96 trucks or replaced with F4TZ-9D930-K for 94-97 trucks or F81Z-9D930-AB on 98.5/99. Resitance from the glow plug relay to the valve cover connertors is 0-1 ohm. If no other faults are found, allow the vehicle to sit overnight. Before starting the engine, set the scan tool to monitor data stream and pick the EOT and Intake Air Temp sensors. The EOT and IAT should be within five degrees of each other. Next, remove the level-check plug from the HP oil pump reservoir and check the oil temperature with a thermometer to verify the EOT reading. If the EOT reading is higher than ambient (IAT) temperature, the PCM may be activating the glow plugs for too short a time, or not at all. If the problem only occurs at high altitude, and there is no glow plug system failures, the BARO sensor is most likley at fault.
Some 97 trucks have experienced a check engine light on after starting with Glow Plug Monitor circuit codes P1391, P1393, P1395 and P1396. After checking the glow plugs and the harnesses as in the above procedure, install a breakout box and check the GPM circuit to the PCM--GPML, LH bank terminal to pin 34; GPMR, RH bank terminal to pin 9; GPMH, relay output terminal to pin 8.
If there are no opens or shorts, re-flash the PCM to a higher calibration level. Also watch for an intermittent no output from the glow plug relay caused by oxidized internal contacts.

 

I checked out the fuel filter, it looks good. Thanks Rick, I need to check the valve gaskets. My code scanner is at a friends house. I need to go grab that too.

 

I scanned it and there are no codes. Would the valve gaskets throw codes if they were messed up?

 

You described the CPS plague. It's an easy and thankfully a cheap thing to replace.

 

I have a spare i the glove box Guess i'll go pop it in. I'll report back when im done. Thanks guys.

 

Ok, I changed the cps and still no start. I forgot how much of a pita those things are to change.

 

OK I lied a little when I said easy to change. Well that's one thing ruled out anyway. Did the wiring look OK, pins on the CPS too?

It may not have codes if the UVC's are bad. Looks like that's next. I don;t want to sound like a smart azz but are you sure about #22 fuse under the hood. It's in the top of the middle row, to the right of the PCM diode.

Is is cold where you are? It may be the GP's but you should still get some smoke out of the tail pipe even if ther aren't working.

Oh ya, fuel pressure too??

 

Im positive about the fuse. Its pretty warm, mid 70s today. The glow plug system is also new. Im having it towed to my shop now so I can start digging in. Going to get the valve cover off. Only problem is I dont have internet access there.

 

I just noticed something. My wts light seems to be staying on longer than normal. Usually when its this warm the light on stays on for a few seconds. Its stayong for 10 seconds now. Does this mean anything?

 

Is the wait to start light supposed to flash when you try and pull codes?

 

i love electrical nitemares, i dont recall mine ever comin on during a scan but the check engine should. does the truck smoke while crankin for a bit or not? if shes a smokin try testing your gp relay with a test light. if not check back in

 

also surprised nobody said check your hpop resevoir