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Bolt dropped down the plenum...

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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 08:17 AM
  #46  
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But true, my right foot is not connected to my wallet and that definitely hurts MPG....
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 09:26 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I usually tape the opening up with green or blue painters tape immediately after the intake is removed. This time though I think I will use the rubber glove method that Wes444 suggested. I think it would be funny to look into the valley and have the gloves and maybe the fingers sticking up a bit. Might bring a laugh or two from the pictures of the new T4 turbo going in.
Thats my method as well. Here’s a link to a post in my turbo install thread for a chuckle. Rubber Glove high tech port protector You can see the blue rubber glove covering the turbo inlet. I use normal gloves and socks to cover the turbo ports during storage as well. I’d say Dmco could attest to receiving a 364.5 in such condition.

edit: I hope the OP enjoys random off topic banter. Well mostly off topic anyhow, we are discussing covering the plenums...
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 03:06 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Thats my method as well. Here’s a link to a post in my turbo install thread for a chuckle. Rubber Glove high tech port protector You can see the blue rubber glove covering the turbo inlet. I use normal gloves and socks to cover the turbo ports during storage as well. I’d say Dmco could attest to receiving a 364.5 in such condition.

edit: I hope the OP enjoys random off topic banter. Well mostly off topic anyhow, we are discussing covering the plenums...
Not at all! Ford should have printed "COVER YOUR PLENUMS!" right smack on the top for people like me!

So I removed the turbo and pedestal this morning and no bolt hiding out there. I then removed the drivers side plenum, went in with the camera and got a good look at the valves, but no bolt.

At this point I have no idea where that little ******* went, I'm covered in so much grease it's probably in my hair.

I'm going to look one more time with the camera and then start reassembling. I'll be back.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 04:15 PM
  #49  
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While you have the turbo out now is the perfect time to squeeze a couple extra lbs of boost out of the old girl.

Tighten the wastegate actuator rod down so that it won't open. No bleed-off of turbine pressure = boost.

Not sure if that's ok to do on a stock compressor wheel or if it may cause surge.

@SkySkiJason Calling on the man who will most definitely have that answer, and for sure some more suggestions.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 04:32 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by F350towing
While you have the turbo out now is the perfect time to squeeze a couple extra lbs of boost out of the old girl.

Tighten the wastegate actuator rod down so that it won't open. No bleed-off of turbine pressure = boost.

Not sure if that's ok to do on a stock compressor wheel or if it may cause surge.

@SkySkiJason Calling on the man who will most definitely have that answer, and for sure some more suggestions.
Answering. Yes, definitely clean and paint everything you take off!!!







Yeah, I delete the red and green hoses and crank the adjustment all the way down on WG actuator. You can’t hurt the turbo with stock injectors.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2021 | 07:46 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Answering. Yes, definitely clean and paint everything you take off!!!


Yeah, I delete the red and green hoses and crank the adjustment all the way down on WG actuator. You can’t hurt the turbo with stock injectors.
Will do. Thank you for the input!

I over torqued my pedestal bolts, I ended up backing them out. Is this bad or no big deal? I have a POS antique torque wrench that didn't seem to be accurate to me when I was putting down 18 ft lbs. So I borrowed my neighbors and hopefully got it right. Also, should I back them out and put locktite on them?

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 07:25 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by clineco
Will do. Thank you for the input!

I over torqued my pedestal bolts, I ended up backing them out. Is this bad or no big deal? I have a POS antique torque wrench that didn't seem to be accurate to me when I was putting down 18 ft lbs. So I borrowed my neighbors and hopefully got it right. Also, should I back them out and put locktite on them?

Thanks!
If the bolts didn’t break, you’re fine. No loctite. You really need an inch pounds tq wrench for that low (18ft lbs) and I don’t trust anything but a really expensive and well cared for tq wrench at that.

What colors of paint did you choose? Lol.

Its a 24mm nut on crank pulley for barring the engine over by hand.

Wishing you the best of luck moving forward!! I hate that this is happening to you, but admire your commitment to gitrdun.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 07:40 AM
  #53  
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wow still no luck on finding that missing bolt! It just has to be somewhere, LOL no magic tricks allowed!

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 07:53 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Answering. Yes, definitely clean and paint everything you take off!!!

Yeah, I delete the red and green hoses and crank the adjustment all the way down on WG actuator. You can’t hurt the turbo with stock injectors.
Dang, I wish I had thought of that when I had mine off. I guess I can just unplug and cap the lines?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 08:05 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by b00stleak
Dang, I wish I had thought of that when I had mine off. I guess I can just unplug and cap the lines?
Just a cap on the 5-way plenum/spider and plug the hole in intake (green hose) with a screw. Use a vacuum cap on spider and secure it with a tiny zip tie.

The last truck I did this on went from max of 19psi boost to 23psi. Alllll stock except Riffraff bellowed up-pipes and boots and DIY EBPV delete.

 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 08:21 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Just a cap on the 5-way plenum/spider and plug the hole in intake (green hose) with a screw. Use a vacuum cap on spider and secure it with a tiny zip tie.

The last truck I did this on went from max of 19psi boost to 23psi. Alllll stock except Riffraff bellowed up-pipes and boots and DIY EBPV delete.

might do this myself!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 12:12 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
If the bolts didn’t break, you’re fine. No loctite. You really need an inch pounds tq wrench for that low (18ft lbs) and I don’t trust anything but a really expensive and well cared for tq wrench at that.

What colors of paint did you choose? Lol.

Its a 24mm nut on crank pulley for barring the engine over by hand.

Wishing you the best of luck moving forward!! I hate that this is happening to you, but admire your commitment to gitrdun.
Ok. Good to know about the bolts, I was up all night second guessing myself. This seems to be the theme for this project.
I honestly wish I had the time to clean/polish and paint the way I would like, but I've been out of work this week. So I need to hit the road! you know? ha ha
Turning over by hand...how do I go about this? Please don't tell me I need to remove the heads.

I'll also be reinstalling the turbo today. I've watched a bunch of videos on this, so I'm guessing I'll be able to pop it right on with out issue the first try...lol Honestly though, I've read in some places that I should loosen the baby's butt and keep the turbo only hand tight until I can match them up. Is that right or should I leave everything where it's at and try to line everything up when I place the turbo in there.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 12:15 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Listor
wow still no luck on finding that missing bolt! It just has to be somewhere, LOL no magic tricks allowed!

Good luck!
and if I do find it, it will have its very own auto-de-fe
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 12:20 PM
  #59  
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Turning over by hand.
Large ratchet with socket placed on crank pulley bolt. Turn clockwise. It should get tight and loose due to compression but rotate all the way around. I’d give it a few rotations for good measure.

Reason for the check is to make sure the bolt isn’t in the cylinder. It should do a hard stop if hitting a bolt.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2021 | 12:21 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Turning over by hand.
Large ratchet with socket placed on crank pulley bolt. Turn clockwise. It should get tight and loose due to compression but rotate all the way around. I’d give it a few rotations for good measure.

Reason for the check is to make sure the bolt isn’t in the cylinder. It should do a hard stop if hitting a bolt.
Ok. Great! Thank you
 
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