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@SkySkiJason as you're the only person here with a head on the bench, did you try the bolt past the valve with the thread towards the port? Not trying to be a smartass, but if that's not a possibility either we can pretty much eliminate the likelihood of the bolt entering the combustion chamber.
Nah it's FTE, and what normally follows is a posse of folks from all over chiming in with a delightful combo of lived experience, internet lore and camaraderie. Maybe right, maybe wrong.
At the moment my best advice is pull the VCs and the GPs and stick your borescope in each GP hole. I expect you will find that damnable bolt imbedded in the piston where it can slam into the head with each stroke. Would explain why you had a hard stop on barring it over by hand.
Additional advice is.... do no crank it further. If the worst case scenario is correct we need to lessen the cost of rebuilding.
I opened valves to ‘about’ 1/2” using my fat max tape measure...
I was able to get bolt way down in valve, but not through it.
This pic is like a kick in the gut.
Originally Posted by Shovelheadrob
@SkySkiJason as you're the only person here with a head on the bench, did you try the bolt past the valve with the thread towards the port? Not trying to be a smartass, but if that's not a possibility either we can pretty much eliminate the likelihood of the bolt entering the combustion chamber.
This represents the worst case scenario and may not be possible with actual valve lift (I think the valve is open more here than it really opens).
If the bolt lodged the valve open and it made contact with the piston. It could bend the valve enough allowing the bolt to fall right in.
If this was the case, when in the video it went from intermittent to steady wouldn’t there be a corespondent misfire. If there was a bent valve not sealing wouldn’t that quickly become evident.
I wasn’t there, but have watched the video a few times now and it didn’t appear that the motor even skipped a beat.
If this was the case, when in the video it went from intermittent to steady wouldn’t there be a corespondent misfire. If there was a bent valve not sealing wouldn’t that quickly become evident.
I wasn’t there, but have watched the video a few times now and it didn’t appear that the motor even skipped a beat.
I have a tendency to agree with this logic.
I expect a piston striking this bolt or a valve stuck open because of bolt would be more than a ‘ticking’ and produce a difference in the way the engine runs.
There is barely the thickness of valve before it strikes the piston and there is basically no space between flat part of piston and head.
Could we be hearing the bolt bouncing around above the valve??
Still hoping removing the belt allows engine to rotate and bolt is behind water pump pulley. (I’ve ‘lost’ more than one bolt or socket there...,)
If this was the case, when in the video it went from intermittent to steady wouldn’t there be a corespondent misfire. If there was a bent valve not sealing wouldn’t that quickly become evident.
I wasn’t there, but have watched the video a few times now and it didn’t appear that the motor even skipped a beat.
I also agree with this logic.
If the valve was stuck open hitting the piston then the compression stroke should be sending the air back up the intake since the valve is not sealing. This should be easily heard and show a misfire.
If the bolt were somewhat hiding in the bowl then I would expect the injector to be destroyed almost immediately resulting in a misfire.
There is not room for a bolt on top of the flat of the piston. Back in the day I had a glow plug tip get lodged in the piston. It had a solid tick tick tick with nothing more than a piece of sheet metal imbedded in there. There was also a piece of debris under the exhaust valve resulting in a “misfire” due to no compression and resulting white smoke from I burnt fuel. Of course the OP didn’t have time to check smoke situation in this case.
It seems reasonable that it could be smacking around inside the intake port.
I’m hoping for the best. Hopefully you find it nestled around the pulleys.
Which is good because bolt easily hides in the piston bowl.
Is that actual cam lift or valve lift after the rocker? Not sure what the rocker ratio is on these. If that number is actual lobe lift then it might make it through since valve lift will be a bit more after the rocker. I know you're well aware of how a pushrod v8 functions, mostly just asking so I know for future reference.
Edit: looks like you talked a bit more about this while I was typing
Is that actual cam lift or valve lift after the rocker? Not sure what the rocker ratio is on these. If that number is actual lobe lift then it might make it through since valve lift will be a bit more after the rocker. I know you're well aware of how a pushrod v8 functions, mostly just asking so I know for future reference.
Edit: looks like you talked a bit more about this while I was typing
This says .400” valve lift and 1.6:1 rocker is stock if I read it right.
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