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Do not hit the clamp. Hit the cast iron collector, it's way stronger and can take abuse. Loosens up what needs to get loose.
I tap the top slit in the clamp with air chisel. The first 3rd pops super easy and 90% of the time continuing to hit the loose part vibrates the other (2) 3rds of the clamp easily. 10% of the time it takes more ‘chiseling’ to loosen the other 2 parts.
The clamp is tough and I haven’t hurt one yet after using this trick for several years and many, many trucks now.
Prior to this, I always used an angled pry bar and hammer. This easily gets the first part off, but the other 2 parts would make me miserable.
If a person believes the air intake heater is a restriction, I have a few sets of non-screened 3" plenums I'll trade for the screened ones. I mean, that mesh HAS to be a restriction to making 300 RWHP right?
If a person believes the air intake heater is a restriction, I have a few sets of non-screened 3" plenums I'll trade for the screened ones. I mean, that mesh HAS to be a restriction to making 300 RWHP right?
I just re-read post #10. The bolt we are looking for holds the strap that secured the wiring harness. (For next time, I just fold it flat and release the harness from it without removing that bolt).
If the valley is grimy and full of dirt/grease, I’m hopeful you’ll find the bolt under the turbo pedestal or HPOP by fishing around with a magnet on a stick. There is a hole in the back of the valley that drains the valley into the bellhousing. It is unlikely your bolt bounced its way in there, but it may be possible to push it there with compressed air or something.
A flexible magnet on a stick could probably be manipulated to get into the middle intake ports without removing plenums. It’s unlikely the bolt could get to the other ports.
Good luck!! Sorry you’re having trouble. I promise we are all rooting for you and want to read a happy ending!!!! Meanwhile, you’re learning a lot about your truck.
you don’t have to remove the turbo to get the back bolts on drivers side.
Use a wire wheel to clean up the old sealant on the plenums.
Do a couple of dry runs before applying the sealant for snaking the plenums in especially on the passenger side if fuel lines haven’t been removed for easier access.
It’s like playing the kids game “Operation “. Bzzz, Bzzz and the red nose lights up.
I just re-read post #10. The bolt we are looking for holds the strap that secured the wiring harness. (For next time, I just fold it flat and release the harness from it without removing that bolt).
If the valley is grimy and full of dirt/grease, I’m hopeful you’ll find the bolt under the turbo pedestal or HPOP by fishing around with a magnet on a stick. There is a hole in the back of the valley that drains the valley into the bellhousing. It is unlikely your bolt bounced its way in there, but it may be possible to push it there with compressed air or something.
A flexible magnet on a stick could probably be manipulated to get into the middle intake ports without removing plenums. It’s unlikely the bolt could get to the other ports.
Good luck!! Sorry you’re having trouble. I promise we are all rooting for you and want to read a happy ending!!!! Meanwhile, you’re learning a lot about your truck.
New camera will be here today so hopefully I'll be able to see back there behind the drain hole. The valley is pretty clean but there are lots of places that it likely is aside from the cylinder head. That's the worst thing about this stupid bolt...I didn't even need to remove it.
I appreciate all of the ideas, everybody is posting, it is very encouraging...thanks again
Originally Posted by F350towing
I peeled the harness to do mine.
you don’t have to remove the turbo to get the back bolts on drivers side.
Use a wire wheel to clean up the old sealant on the plenums.
Do a couple of dry runs before applying the sealant for snaking the plenums in especially on the passenger side if fuel lines haven’t been removed for easier access.
It’s like playing the kids game “Operation “. Bzzz, Bzzz and the red nose lights up.
How in sam hell did you get those 4 bolts off underneath the pedestal? I got the top 2 but I can't even see the ones underneath! Props to you and believe me I don't want to take off this turbo...I'm stalling at the moment. Thanks for the encouragement!
How in sam hell did you get those 4 bolts off underneath the pedestal? I got the top 2 but I can't even see the ones underneath! Props to you and believe me I don't want to take off this turbo...I'm stalling at the moment. Thanks for the encouragement!
I don’t exactly recall , but some were with a box end wrench and some were with a socket but not on a ratchet.
I even got to play hide and seek with one of my wrenches when it fell down the backside of the motor and hung up on the tranny.
Great avatar sir and reps sent! I got a pretty good laugh out of this and wanted to show my appreciation for you finding the humor in a seemingly daunting task of finding the "missing" bolt.
Great avatar sir and reps sent! I got a pretty good laugh out of this and wanted to show my appreciation for you finding the humor in a seemingly daunting task of finding the "missing" bolt.
I appreciate all the help I'm getting in the thread/site. I'm afraid this thread is going to end up getting pretty long by the time I get this thing back together!
Clineco im guilty of this too. Hard to believe loosing that one fastener can cause such a headache. When you get your new camera in there you should be able to work it in far enough to see the intake valve. It was right next to the valve where i found my screw. Once i found or could see it...getting it out required. Something with some flex but ridged enough to be pushed into the right spot. My flexible grabber with the magnet from the magnetic stick did the trick. I was only worried that the magnet would stick to the casting in the intake.
good luck to you man!
I don’t exactly recall , but some were with a box end wrench and some were with a socket but not on a ratchet.
I even got to play hide and seek with one of my wrenches when it fell down the backside of the motor and hung up on the tranny.
If a person believes the air intake heater is a restriction, I have a few sets of non-screened 3" plenums I'll trade for the screened ones. I mean, that mesh HAS to be a restriction to making 300 RWHP right?
You don't fool me. The mesh is a vortex generator that improves combustion chamber swirl that results in more power. Nice try buster!
You don't fool me. The mesh is a vortex generator that improves combustion chamber swirl that results in more power. Nice try buster!
Naaawwwww man, the screen allows you to drop dryer sheets in there to make your exhaust smell like fresh laundry!
And the internet said that the AIH is blocking 20% of the air path. When I took mine out, my truck was quieter, idled smoother and easily picked up more chicks. Definitely increased the effect fuel and oil crossovers made. I even got an extra 3mpg from the first tank!!!!
Come on now BRAH! You know you don't count MPG's running that bacon grease lubricity biodiesel...
Frankly, I like that the plenums have the screens in them. As I stated in the past about my clumsy *** not being able to pour a 5 gallon PAIL of oil correctly, I would most certainly drop something down there.
I usually tape the opening up with green or blue painters tape immediately after the intake is removed. This time though I think I will use the rubber glove method that Wes444 suggested. I think it would be funny to look into the valley and have the gloves and maybe the fingers sticking up a bit. Might bring a laugh or two from the pictures of the new T4 turbo going in.
Or, maybe I can get in touch with the CEO of 1-800-REN-TWES in order to see if they install rubber gloves as well as pouring pails of oil. That would be a great business venture for them...
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