NOTE: PDF file is attached. It is an easier to read version of this write up and should be easily printed if you want to use as a reference during your install.

CSD T4 SXE WRITE UP
I finally did the T4/SXE swap after a couple years of stewing over it. Sous’s thread about his experience along with all the testimonial videos of towing performance is what finally pushed me to make the jump. I voluntarily promised Sous to also do a write up so hopefully my experience can help someone else out in the future. My thought is it is always helpful to have more information available. I was looking into this and was having some trouble finding resources other than the nice links Sous provides in his parts list thread. (Note, the tech folder thread is awesome and you should check it out if you haven’t yet.) https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html
So I’ll start with a little history (skip if you want) then go to the install description (begins on page 4). I’ll put some photos on subsequent posts just because it will be easier to load them that way. I’ve tried to write this like an instruction sheet to provide a guide for future installers. I’m no expert but these are the steps I would take if doing a second install right now.

HISTORY
I tow a 24’ enclosed car trailer with a 2001 auto & 3.73 gearing. Our local dragstrip closed and I had to start towing 3 hours from home at least half or all of it on the interstate depending on which way we go.
The stock airbox didn’t seal correctly so I did the 6637 mod years ago. The truck when purchased had a surge issue. I “fixed” that by buying a used 38R along with a delete pedestal and waste master wastegate controller. Then found a leak between the driver’s side manifold and head (I mention because I think that was exaggerating my surge issue). With that corrected I ran this setup for 7 years but only towing an hour from home. It was ok but the longer I drove it the more I realized the 38R (at least to me) didn’t live up to the hype. Once I started the 6 hour round trip tow I knew something had to change. First of all the 38R is obnoxious with the 6637 (I’m not young anymore). The 38R was a top breather that ran well as long as you kept the rpm up. If you wanted to tow 80mph then it would perform great, 55-70 and I was driving by the EGT (yes I want to tow in OD). It was really frustrating to have all this 7.3 power and not be able to use it. Some people say 1200° tops, others will say go to 1450° briefly. I was never comfortable going much past the 1250° mark. A couple years ago I was weighing out my options and akcooper9 said to go SXE and never look back. That was a lot to take in so I opted to go back to my stock turbo and add a riffraff billet wheel along with keeping the waste master wastegate controller. This was a phenomenal change! The low to mid range power increase was unbelievable. If you’re not going to go SXE I totally recommend the riffraff wheel in the stock turbo. I also added a AIS airbox because I wanted quiet. This made the towing much much better BUT I was still having to watch the EGTs. It wasn’t crazy high and would probably top out at 1350, but I just didn’t like it. What akcooper9 said and the information in Sous’s thread kept nagging at me for 2 years. Finally I just wanted to try it and talked to a few guys who whole heartedly recommended this setup. I have yet to hear someone say the SXE was a bad choice.

Special thanks to all the fellas who took their time and spoke to me about this to help make my decision. @Sous , @akcooper9 , TheBrad, and @Ridedan2 were all very helpful.

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-------NOTE: Attached pdf and installation thread posts updated to version 1.1 on 11/25/2020.-------
-------NOTE: Updated pdf to version 1.2 w/ @Cshep73 's added info on 12/16/2022, v1.1 was @ 198 views.-------

 

MY KIT DECISION
I tried researching kits to figure out which one to order. Here at FTE almost all the folks were running the CSD kit. I’d spoken to Irate but just couldn’t really find anyone who was running their kit. Obsession doesn’t have any pricing available and was kind of a mystery. I contacted them on Facebook and was supposed to get a callback but it never happened so I wrote them off my list. Overall the main question I was trying to figure out was which kit was better designed and fit best. I ended up going with CSD due to the known experiences by the people here at FTE. Carlson @ CSD was nice to talk to and just seems like a decent guy. After my install I did find someone who has installed both CSD & Irate kits and said he prefers the CSD version. Look at post #1464 around page 97 of Sous’s thread for Eswift’s comments. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-made-102.html



MY TURBO DECISION
I was on the fence of which one to order. Most FTE members were running the 364.5 with awesome towing results. CSD recommended the 366 (no, too big for me). Irate recommended the 364.5. TCS said either the 363 or 364.5 would work and if I ever thought of going bigger injectors to go 364.5. Overall with my current setup he recommended the 363. I even spoke to PHP who recommended the 363. All of these recommended at the time were the 73mm large turbine version. Ultimately I went with what I knew to work for other people. The 364.5 with 0.91 housing.
--UPDATE: The 364.5/large turbine/0.91 sxe did not match well with my driving style. It felt too laggy for my low rpm driving and medium towing needs. I ended up purchasing a 363/small turbine/0.91 and doing a turbo swap. The swap took around 5.5 hours including doing some boot modifications and boost leak checking. The T4 turbo removal only took 50 minutes. I am very happy with my current setup.
—UPDATE #2: Swapped out to an 0.83 housing 2/8/2025. 3:45 minutes to do the swap.
---Please refer to the Turbo Matrix thread for help with your turbo selection. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-reviews.html

MY PURCHASE
I called CSD direct and ordered a kit by phone. This is during the COVID-19 period so he was short staffed and it took 8 days to ship out. Ordered on Thursday, shipped the following Friday, arrived Monday, for a total of about 1.5 weeks from order to door.

The turbo came from TSC Automotive as Sous mentions. They definitely had the best prices. I also called them to get the part number because the website leaves you a bit confused in finding the right part. Sous does list the correct TCS part numbers 13009097055 & 177208 in his part thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arts-list.html Ordered up the 364.5 with 0.91 housing. It also took a little while to ship out but again we were dealing with some abnormalities. Ordered Thursday morning, not sure when it shipped but FedEx had it on the truck for delivery 3 days before finally dropping it off on Saturday. Just over a week after ordering.
--UPDATE: The second turbo order from TCS took just over a week to arrive which is fine. There was a lack of communication however. The payment was processed immediately and order confirmation email received. The email reads that most items ship same day. I emailed after about 4 days requesting an update and never heard back. On about the 5th day I received a shipping notification, but still no answer to my email contact. The part was drop shipped from “Industrial Injection”. Part numbers for the 363/68/0.91 are 13009097006 & 177207. (As of 2/2021 TCs website is down and may be out of business).

ADDITIONAL PURCHASES
These are items I had on hand, purchased, or recommend to purchase to do the install.

1- 18” length of 3.5” Exhaust Flex Pipe

2- 3.5” Exhaust strap clamp (Qty 1)

3- 4” Exhaust strap clamp (Qty 1)

4- 3”x2.5” – 5” long Silicone “straight reducer coupler” (boot) per Sous’s part list. This is optional but will definitely make the connection to turbo easier and Sous says it will also prevent blow offs. It is a bit tricky to find one in the 5” length but it is worth the effort.

5- Uppipe to manifold bolts (if you’re not able to reuse current ones)

6- Pipe thread paste

7- Anti-Seize

8- Brake Cleaner

9- 1/8” NPT tap for boost fitting (your needs may vary depending on how you connect)

10- 6637 filter

11- Good Clamp for 6637 filter (size 4.13 is what I used)

12- 4” long piece of 4” diameter pipe for mating 6637 to stock intake boot (I used part of my 4” exhaust kit years ago)

13- Good Y boots, cold side intercooler pipe boots, hot side intercooler lower boot, and good clamps for all these connections. (I already had). Note: The CSD kit comes with clamps for the hot pipe to turbo boot.

14- 4” 45° silicone coupler (optional) If you want to make intake using stock CCV.

15- 2”x50’ Header Wrap (optional). Was enough to do both uppipes and DP.

16- 11.8” Exhaust Wrap metal zip ties. (optional)

17- Half Moon wrenches, preferably ratcheting style. (I did not have but will buy if doing again) --UPDATE: Purchased $25 regular metric Half Moon set from eBay before doing the 2nd turbo swap. Made it much easier.
— UPDATE #2: Used the Half Moon wrenches again for the turbine housing swap. These are pretty essential to doing the job.

18- Angle Finder if you would like to try and copy my bench turbo clocking angles.
-UPDATE: after 3 successful installs (in same truck) with these angles, I recommend trying them.

 

INSTALL of CSD T4 kit
Watch Sous’s video (link above), it is very helpful. I referred to it many times throughout the install. I followed his basic steps to complete the job. What I will put here is the way I wish I’d have done it. As akcooper9 said, it was only hard because it was my first one. I could accomplish a second install much quicker. Here are my instructions if I were to do it a second time.
*Disclaimer: I share this in an attempt to help you through the steps of the kit install. I am not a professional. You assume all risks in regards to installation.

Special thanks to all the guys who helped me along the way. Both in the forum and on the phone. Lots of their support/advice has been summarized in this install.


1- Remove your old stuff. Easy enough until you get to the downpipe.

2- Remove the engine hanger from the passenger side head. It will be in the way of the new downpipe. I put the bolts (with washers for clearance) back in to keep the holes clean.
.....a. NOTE: FordTruckNoob said he used this location to relocate his passenger head ground strap.

3- Remove the Downpipe by cutting the exhaust just behind the crossmember, in front of the first exhaust hanger. Just like Sous shows in his video. Seriously, I spent a lot of time removing the DP from the slip joint only to find the old exhaust needed cut anyways. Unless you are 1 in a million lucky you will not be able to directly connect to the old pipe. Do yourself a favor and cut the pipe.
NOTE: If you insist on taking it out at the slip joint then I can share what eventually worked for me. Use a cut off tool to cut the slots at the joint longer. Spread the joint area a bit with a screwdriver and hammer. Use an air chisel with a flat tip to drive back between the pipes and open up the slots. Turn the air chisel around and use on the DP to push it out.

4- Loosen the trans dipstick tube. It will be in your way. I loosened but did not remove the bolt.

5- Clean up the manifolds where they meet the uppipes. It is not possible to do once the kit is installed. I wish I would have done this step. There was a small leak at the uppipe connection and I had to tighten down a lot to prevent a leak. The Stainless Steel uppipes are much harder than the other material used on my previous uppipes so they do not deform into place as easily.

6- Downpipe dry fit. I wish I had done this! Mock up the plate, uppipes, turbine housing (no supercore), and downpipe. The DP hit the valve cover, firewall, dipstick tube depending on how it was positioned but I could not get it to clear all 3. I highly recommend installing, marking and “massaging” as necessary before you get all the parts in. Once in it’s too late to do easily. But at this point is would be very easy to do.

.....a. Install plate to engine (snug bolts)

.....b. Drop in uppipes from top.

.....c. Move uppipes to the side as needed to allow DP clearance. Most guys say they set to the side at a 45° angle. I can’t remember exactly how I got it to work.

.....d. I put the DP in from the bottom and was having trouble until loosening the dipstick tube. Ended up kinda forcing it. Akcooper9 said he drops in in from the top. I’d try that route first.

.....e. Install the uppipe to the plate (snug bolts).

.....f. Add the turbine housing to uppipes and snug tighten nuts

.....g. Attach DP and figure out what needs modified.

.....h. Mark and bend the trans dipstick tube if needed. It would be much easier to adjust while the DP was out.

.....i. NOTE: FordTruckNoob said his installation required moving the ground strap from the passenger head to the removed Engine Hanger location due to downpipe to bolt interference. --My ground has plenty of clearance at its location on the head, but may have been moved during a transmission installation.

.....j. Fuel Line adjustment. The fuel line requires some tweaking due to contact with the uppipe base/bolt. Now would be a good time to adjust it. I’ll describe how I did it during the plate installation below, skip ahead to read my process.

7- Wrap the uppipes and/or DP if you want them wrapped.

8- I painted the plate and uppipe bracket with some high temp paint to try and protect from rusting (but maybe it was stainless and not needed?). I masked off the area where the o-rings would seal.

9- Mock assemble the turbo in a vise to get drain tube and clocking set. I used 2 bolts through the plate similar to Sous’s video.
Note: In my terminology, Supercore bolts = 4 bolts holding supercore to exhaust housing. Inlet bolts = 8 bolts holding the inlet housing to supercore.

.....a. Add long bolts through 2 plate holes from the bottom with nuts on both sides of the plate. Tighten nuts to fix bolts to plate.

.....b. Put plate in vise and hold by the 2 bolts. Be careful not to damage the plate surface.

.....c. Install large drain fitting to plate using thread sealant paste.

.....d. Install the uppipes to the plate and snug bolts.

.....e. Install the supercore to the turbine housing, finger tighten the 4 bolts (using 2 clamps).

.....f. Install the gasket and drain tube to the supercore. You will not need to remove.

.....g. Install the turbo to the uppipes with nuts snug.

.....h. Loosen 8 bolts on the inlet housing. - You will need to snug supercore bolts, loosen inlet bolts, loosen supercore bolts, rotate, repeat as needed.

.....i. Snug a couple Inlet bolts to hold in place.

.....j. Loosen the supercore bolts so it will rotate.

.....k. Mock fit and bend the drain tube. Get the supercore angle set to where the drain tube fits well with no tension. I was surprised to see the bottom leaning toward the drain fitting (back). On my workbench it was about a 10° angle measured from the oil feed section of the turbo. UPDATE: This 10° angle was repeated during my 363 install

.....l. Tighten the supercore 4 bolts. I did not need to loosen these again. You will install with the drain tube attached and this part is now set.

.....m. Loosen the Inlet housing bolts and rotate to set at 45° from plate as seen in Sous’s video. Ultimately you will be adjusting this down some once in the truck. UPDATE: You may want to try 49.5° measured at the compressor outlet based on my 363 install measurements.

.....n. Snug a couple Inlet bolts just to hold it in place during the install.

.....o. Install the oil feed fitting in the top of the turbo using thread sealant paste (no tape). I was careful to keep the paste away from the leading threads.

.....p. Remove turbo from uppipes & uppipes from plate.

10- Install O-rings to block and install plate. I torqued to 18 ft-lbs based off a reference to pedestal install torque spec of 18.

11- Drop in uppipes and move to one side. Not sure which works best. I did driver’s side.

12- Install DP. I would try from top first since akcooper9 said it works well. I fought to install from underneath.

13- Bolt down uppipes. Note: here I moved the uppipes into position on the mainifolds and loosely put in bolts just enough to keep aligned. I had trouble installing the Uppipes to the plate on the engine as they needed pushed to the side. I recommend ignoring the manifold side until after you have them bolted to the plate.

14- Attach uppipes to manifolds. (bolts not provided with kit) Note: I used Anti-Seize.

15- Fuel Line adjustment. It is necessary to move the fuel line due to contact with the uppipe base/bolt.

.....a. Unbolt the line clamp from the plenum by removing the nut.

.....b. I supported the fuel line near the rear of the head with my hand to prevent stress or movement at the fitting.

.....c. Used my other hand and then a wrench for more leverage to bend the line up.

.....d. Placed a piece of rubber between the clamp and fuel line.

.....e. The clamp was placed in the area of contact to provide protection from wear.

.....f. A zip tie was used through the bolt hole to hold clamp together.

16- Put turbo gasket on studs. Note: I put a little Anti-Seize behind the gasket but not sure if that’s recommended.

17- Install turbo to uppipes with 4 nuts, 9/16” but 15mm works. (NOTE: be mindful of the drain line as you install the turbo)

18- Tighten the drain line to plate connection. (I believe this is a 1” fitting)

19- Clock turbo Inlet side. (Loosen snugged bolts)

.....a. Place Y on top of plenums without boots

.....b. Rotate turbo outlet until it is about 1/8” from Y. (I did not get mine low enough and did it again after Y install)

.....c. Tighten all 8 bolts. I used regular and stubby ratchet wrenches but half moon wrenches would be much better.

20- Install the Oil Feed nipple to the plate using thread sealant paste (not tape). Again, I was mindful to keep the paste off the bottom threads.

21- Attach the Oil Feed line to the plate side finger tight. Route line beneath the turbo.

22- PRIME THE TURBO WITH OIL. I used an animal medicine dropper (had on hand). It took 4cc. Rotated the impeller. Then it took 1cc more.

23- Install the Oil Feed line to top of turbo. Before tightening hold the Y in place so you can check clearances. I had to loosen up and adjust once the Y was on. Mine ended up clocked slightly toward the passenger side.

24- Tighten Oil Feed line at both fittings.

25- Figure out how to connect to existing exhaust. Below is how I ultimately completed the job.
I have a 4” Magnaflow system. My connection ended up being almost identical to Sous’s who I believe was using Diamond Eye. Your connection may vary depending on your current exhaust but by looking at the room available between the crossmember, trans, frame, and exhaust hanger I expect your location and process will be very similar. NOTE: If you do not have a 4” exhaust system then you will need to alter this plan.

.....a. Make a “sleeve” from a piece of your old 4” exhaust to be used in clamping the 3.5” flex to 4” exhaust. This sleeve was necessary because the 4” strap clamp would not close far enough to seal on the 3.5” flex pipe. NOTE: Sous used a normal u-bolt exhaust clamp here instead of a strap clamp but I did not have one. I also like the thought of the strap clamp because it does not deform the pipe and should allow for easy removal of the flex if ever needed.

..........i. Cut about a 3” long piece off the scrap 4” exhaust pipe that you already removed. (a band saw or cut off wheel should work well)

..........ii. Cut a slit the length of the pipe. You will want around a 3/8” material removal to allow the pipe to squeeze around the flex pipe. But you also do not want excessive gap once squeezed. Please verify it will squeeze enough to properly clamp the 3.5” flex pipe. You may need to adjust the gap width so it doesn’t bottom out. NOTE: I used a 2 piece version as listed below due to the flex already being installed.

..........iii. Alternately, you can cut it down the length twice to create a 2 piece sleeve. I used this method because my flex was already installed and I didn’t want to disassemble. The 1 piece version would probably seal better (I would attempt if doing the job again). Mine does not leak however.

.....b. Slide 18” section of 3.5” Exhaust Flex Pipe into the 4” pipe that was left on the truck.

.....c. Slide the sleeve adapter onto the flex pipe (if using the 1 piece version).

.....d. Install the DP to turbo with clamp partially tightened.

.....e. Pull the 3.5” flex out of old exhaust and over the CSD 3.5” DP.

.....f. Adjust the DP to position with best clearance to firewall, trans dipstick, and valve cover. Make certain it has plenty of clearance from the Firewall. This is critical. I bent the dipstick tube some to make room. Hopefully you have done this as part of your DP mockup step mentioned at the beginning.

.....g. Tighten DP to Turbo clamp.

.....h. Double check clearance to firewall.

.....i. Connect flex pipe to DP using 3.5” strap clamp. Overlap the clamp with about half of it on each part. You could also use a 3.5”OD-3.5”ID lap joint clamp but the normal strap clamp worked for me. Note: I used Anti-Seize on bolts.

.....j. Triple check firewall clearance.

.....k. Attach Flex to original exhaust using 4” Strap clamp and “sleeve”. The flex should be inside of the 4” pipe. The sleeve should butt up against the 4” pipe. The strap clamp will go over both and compress the sleeve to the flex pipe. This worked very well for me.

.....l. Quadruple check the DP to firewall clearance. See how important this is?

.....m. Final tighten the strap clamps. They go very tight at like 60 ft-lbs. Please refer to the actual clamp instructions.

26- Doublecheck the tightening of DP to turbo clamp

27- Clean all boots/fittings with brake cleaner. They will need to be oil free before installing.

28- Prepare Y for install.

.....a. Move Temp sensor from spider. Use Sealant paste on threads.

.....b. I drilled and tapped an extra hole for my boost gauge. You could use a Tee if preferred.

.....c. Remove MAP line nipple, apply sealant, reinstall.

29- Install Y. Note: Sous’s method did not work for me here. My Diesel Site boots seemed a bit short so my method may not work for you. --UPDATE: During the 2nd turbo swap I used longer cut to length boots and the initial method did not work with the longer boots. I used Sous’s method for the 2nd install.

ORIGINAL Install short boot method:
.....a. Put 1 clamp each side high onto Y. Other clamps loosely on boot.

.....b. Install boot to driver’s side of Y

.....c. Install other boot to passenger’s side plenum

.....d. Push driver’s side onto plenum.

.....e. Work passenger’s side down onto boot. I was able to work it partially into the boot then use a small screwdriver to work the rest of the boot out and over the Y.

.....f. Tighten clamps. I had trouble getting my clamps low enough on the rubber. They actually were partially on the lip of the Y.

Long Boot Sous method:
.....a. Put 1 clamp each side high onto Y.

.....b. Install boots barely onto plenum and leave misaligned so they point more straight up than the plenums which allows mating to the Y.

.....c. Slide other clamps onto plenum boots and let lay near plenum.

.....d. Start the Y into each boot. You may need a small screwdriver to persuade the lip over the edge of the Y.

.....e. Push down onto both boots so the boots go onto both the plenum and the Y at the same time.

.....f. Tighten clamps.
30- Connect MAP hose, Temp sensor, Boost line.

31- Install cold side intercooler tube to intercooler loosely.

32- Slide top boot over the cold pipe. I put it WAY onto the pipe to allow room to get aligned with the Y.

33- Move boot onto the Y and tighten down clamps here and at intercooler.

34- CLEAN new hot side intercooler pipe. There was metal from what looked like a dirty mandrel inside mine. It was pressed into the pipe but would flake off. I brushed and scrapped as much as I could then flushed out with a water hose.

35- Install hot side pipe to intercooler and leave loose. This pipe didn’t fit as deeply when setup as the original did.

36- If you purchased the 5” long boot Sous recommended now is the time to mock it up and cut. I cut off approximately ¾” length off of the smaller diameter side.

37- Put the boot onto the turbo. (don’t forget the clamps)

38- Push the pipe over the boot until you get a good positioning. I was able to have plenty of clearance between both the Power Steering fitting and the Alternator. Hold in a good position and tighten clamps.

39- Performing a boost leak check is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED now. It would be simple to do at this point before installing the intake tubing.

40- Intake Tube. You’ll have to figure this out based on your goal. I installed the CSD version then ordered the parts for a different method. I’ll share both as separate main steps below.

.....a. The way I install a 6637 filter is to use a small section of 4” pipe between the original boot for the airbox and the filter. I remove the filter box (it will unbolt) from the truck but leave the base which is part of the battery tray (some people opt to buy a metal battery tray and remove the entire plastic air filter base, but I find this method to work well). Then I put the 6637 on the 4” pipe and tuck between the relay box and battery. It will fit but be slightly snug. There is plenty of clearance under and around the filter in my opinion. This method will work regardless of the setup you chose below.

.....b. Note about stock CCV install: Ultimately I liked the idea of connecting to the original plastic CCV sleeve which would allow any “normal” configuration of air filter setup you wanted. I have seen 2 guys do this using vastly different methods. Personally I used ESwift’s method and will detail it below.

..........i. Akcooper9 cut up the intake tube and rewelded to make it reach the CCV tube. This method uses a straight 4” boot at 2 locations. He had 2 intake tubes to work with so the risk was low. For me this seemed like it would be difficult to get the cuts right since the CSD tube was already welded and mocking up was not possible without cutting first. I personally would not attempt this unless I had loose pipe fittings or didn’t mind purchasing another intake if I botched it up.

..........ii. ESwift uses a 45° silicone coupler with 4” legs. He cuts the turbo side of the boot at an angle to get the correct orientation toward the factory CCV sleeve. He puts a piece of 4” pipe between the 45° and CCV then uses a straight silicone coupler to join it to the CCV sleeve.

41- CSD INTAKE INSTALL

.....a. I purchased the CSD intake with CCV port but had the CCV vented to atmosphere at time of install. I plugged this port for the immediate install with plans to reroute later.

.....b. To modify the CSD intake tube I cut it back to 1.25” from the CCV port but 1” would probably work better as that is the boot insertion depth. Basically I cut 4” off of the filter side. I then pushed the original boot as far on the CSD tube as I could. If you get the angles right, the filter will sit in the proper location.

.....c. Tighten all the clamps

42- STOCK CCV INTAKE INSTALL:

.....a. Cut about a 4” long section of 4” pipe. I used the piece that was cut off of the CSD intake during that install. This will be used as a joint to connect the silicone couplers.

.....b. Put the pipe inside the 4” 45° silicone coupler with 4” legs (purchased separately) leaving about 1.5” sticking out.

.....c. Mock up the 45° silicone coupler, CCV tube, and pipe to find the proper location for the cut. Mark the tube as needed.

.....d. My cut was about 1.25” (width of the turbo flange). This was an angle cut and basically went from 0” to 1.25” (see photo section). The material was removed from the inside of the boot angle but not quite centered.

.....e. The CCV sleeve bracket needs slight bending to get aligned. Just a little tweak with a crescent wrench was all that was needed.

.....f. Put the CSD supplied 4” straight silicone coupler on the pipe. Push it all the way to the 45° coupler so that no pipe is showing.

.....g. Install the 45° to the turbo

.....h. Push the stock plastic CCV sleeve into the straight coupler.
NOTE: CCV “Hood” opening should point towards air filter.

.....i. Align CCV with bracket and install bolts. (don’t forget the CCV doghouse hose, I plugged the port temporarily due to my hose being routed to atmosphere for now)

.....j. Attach to your intake of choice. It should fit as if it were connected to stock.

.....k. Tighten all the clamps.

43- I turned the truck to No Start then did a couple crank cycles before starting to help fill the turbo Oil Feed line.

44- Start truck and let idle for a bit before testing out. I let mine idle for 10 minutes while checking everything out and looking for leaks .

45- After a couple drives/heat cycles go back and tighten all the boot clamps.




LESSONS LEARNED

1- If you are installing header wrap listen to the directions and wear gloves. I did not do this and my hands itched for a couple days. You will be pulling and stretching the fiberglass wrap so it really gets imbedded into your skin well.

2- Dry fit the Down Pipe. I cannot stress this enough. If you don’t do this step then consider not wrapping it so you can see your clearances. The wrap prevented me from seeing how it was fitting. I would dry fit, ding it up, then wrap.

3- Don’t try to take the old DP out of the slip joint. This was a huge waste of time. Cut the exhaust off.

4- I did not need the 3.5-4” exhaust adapter to connect to my old exhaust using the flex pipe method described above.

5- CLEAN the new intercooler pipe. There was metal from what looked like a dirty mandrel inside mine. It was pressed into the pipe but would flake off.

6- Check for boost leaks during the install. I found a couple small ones at the MAP hose and air was leaking through my IAT sensor requiring a new one.

7- Buy some metric Half Moon wrenches, ratcheting type would be best.
–UPDATE: Purchased (non-ratcheting) for the 2nd turbo install. The $25 was a good investment.
—UPDATE #2: Used again during the 3rd install. These or a set of shorty wrenches are pretty essential as those top nuts are hard to get on.

 

What I’m towing. Not extremely heavy but cuts a lot of air.


CSD kit

 

If you just “HAVE” to remove the DP from the slip joint and like me do not have a torch, use a cut off wheel to elongate the slots. Then use the air chisel down the side to spread the pipe. Finally use the air chisel to “push” the DP out of the exhaust. Trust me though, just cut it off!


This is showing the cut in front of the “dogleg” and did NOT work. It put the exhaust in too much of a bind and caused DP to firewall contact. Cut it behind the crossmember instead.

 

Wrapped and “sealed” with wrap paint. CSD said there wasn’t a need to wrap the double walled bellows so I skipped them. I found it easier to just run it quickly over the bellows instead of trying to cut and start over. Metal zip ties were placed at both ends and both sides of the bellows.

 

Mock up of turbo on vise.


About 10° tilt measured on the oil feed boss. UPDATE: (10° repeated during 363 install)
Angle at my arm should be 49.5° based on 363 install. (it was 40.5° while clamped to the bench with the exhaust flange on its back)


UPDATE #2: The 10° on the oil feed boss and 49.5° at the compressor outlet repeated during the subsequent exhaust housing swap. I recommend trying this angle during your install.

 

Oil Drain Line

 

Fuel line contact.


Fuel line fix using the clamp and rubber.

 

Flex pipe “sleeve”



​​​4” exhaust clamp w/ sleeve


DP clamp connection.

 

Y install. I put a boot on driver’s side Y and passenger’s side plenum, pushed onto driver’s side plenum, then onto passenger’s side boot using a screwdriver to help. Not much room for clamps to grab on my boots.
–UPDATE: Used longer boots for 2nd turbo install. Used Sous’s method of loose boots on plenums, started both sides of Y, then pushed all together. Clamps fit much better now.

 

Be sure to clean your intercooler pipe. The metal on my finger was inside.

 

STOCK CCV INTAKE INSTALL

4” diameter pipe, 4” long. 3” might be better but it was already this length.
--UPDATE: I changed out to black boots. The straight section ordered from eBay was shorter and around 4” long. This required leaving some of the metal pipe showing between the 45° and the straight boot.


1.5” sticking out from hose.


1.25” angle cut from the turbo side of the boot.

 

Stock CCV install mock up. (Black boots were easily not available. I may change later) --UPDATE: Changed to black boots.

 

I like to tuck the edge of the filter behind this flange in the plastic tray.
It puts a nice angle on the filter and gives plenty of room underneath.