Got the a/c lines crimped the other day so I installed them and got the dash all put back together, my Ron Francis wiper switch came so I installed my electric wiper that I made, motor is for a 90’s jeep. Wiring it was confusing, but found a video that explained it and seems to work. Filled the rad with coolant and ran it till the thermostat opened and the electric fan kicked In. Not sure what thermostat I have I think it’s a 180 or 195, and my fan is a 210-195. That might be a little too hot. But it did work and cooled it down and the heater was blowing nice hot air. So everything seems to be working. Got the air gauge got hooked up and installed, added an air chuck in the cab so I have onboard air when ever I need

 

I tried messing with the original carburetor, but it was just so rusted. I ended up ordering a new Edelbrock AVS2 and it fired right up, runs and idles nice, got some throttle linkage hooked up, swapped out the 53 throttle linkage for a 56 so it was on the driver side and everything seems to work properly now​​​​​​​

 

I'm trying to figure this all out in my head and there is some information that is hard to find. Currently I have a Lincoln Mark VIII IRS.

 

I think that I messed up my quick reply, so I think that there are two replies, sorry. I am going to remove the Lincoln Mark VIII IRS that I have, and my plan is to replace it with an Explorer 8.8 and triangulated 4 link. I'm trying to gather as much information that I can, and it appears that I will have to place the top bars as you did with one end on the axle tube close to the frame and the other on an added cross member towards its center. Looking at the top bars from the top, how long are they and what angle did you use from where they are mounted on the cross member, to the axle tube.

Thanks,
Jerry

 

I bought a kit from welder series and just followed there instructions. I’d have to measure how long the bars are.

 

From what I gather, the upper bars from the Welder Series Triangulated 4 link are 18". Paul Horton says that most often these upper bars are angled at 15-20 degrees. If they are mounted to the chassis at the side, Paul says the bracket used for mounting them is angled at 27 degrees.

Did you trim your upper bars at all? Were you after a certain target angle for the upper bars from the cross member to the axle shaft? I would imagine that changing the angle would then impact where to place the cross member?

I hope that I am not being too annoying as I figure this all out!

Thanks,
Jerry

 

The only thing I changed was where they mounted. Having an offset differential, I didn’t like the way that they were gonna mount on the pumpkin, so I reversed the triangle. I’m honestly not sure what the angle of the top bar would be at ride height. I have my truck on jack stands

 

So after a slow going wiring job I believe I am done minus stereo system. So I pulled all the wiring harness out of the truck and I am wanting to do the sound deadener to the floor and anywhere that I can put it inside the cab. Should I be sealing the floor with something? Seam sealer on all seam or should I be spraying a primer? Or do I just scuff it up really good and put the sound deadener on​​​​​​​

 

Seam sealer isn't necessary to add unless you have open seams somewhere. Even then it would be best to apply to the outside to seal the seam before moisture gets in them. Undercoating the bottom of the cab could be a good plan. If you have rust issues you'll want to address those before coating or covering. They won't get any better. If you have bare metal anywhere those spots should be primed or coated. Spray can stuff would be sufficient. You're just looking to block against moisture if you'll be covering everything with sound mat or carpeting. As long as the surface is clean and dry, the mat should stick just fine.

 

I’ll take a couple pictures tomorrow. I have found one spot underneath the cab that need fixed other than that the floor seems to be in good shape.

one other thing should I persons just weld shut all the inspection holes in the floor, what about the battery cover I relocated the battery to under the bed. I plan on welding all the firewall holes. 40 plus holes.

 

 

That floor is gorgeous! If it were me, I'd scrub the living crap out of it and get it sparkling clean and dry real good, pick up a pint of Rust Mort and a small, cheap paint brush and brush a thin coating of that on any surface rusty spot to kill and convert the rust, then install the sound deadener mat and call it a day. Be sure to follow the instructions, don't overdo it, and clean off any residue from the non-rusty parts.
https://semproducts.com/product/rust...roduct-details

 

I have a quart of POR 15. I might clean and prep the floor and paint that on everything before i put the sound deadener down.

 

That will do it, I installed mine over a couple coats of epoxy primer..

 

From what I gathered on FB, I can remove this piece. I was mostly wondering how carpet is put down with it. I’m looking at carpet from a Canadian dealer that carries ACC carpets