I cannot verify any block difference between SRW and DRW trucks, but since the distance between the leaf springs and the frame rail remains the same, the Firestone airbags should fit just fine. And as a half-cost alternative, you may want to look at THESE AIRBAGS because they're almost identical to the Firestones. I bought a set of Torque airbags and hope to install them this weekend.

 

Been following this thread from the beginning, and as someone who lowered an F350 (2016 CCLB Platinum) and then put it back stock because of the driveline vibration that it caused, I have a question. Has anyone tried lowering the rear of one of these trucks by lowering the spring rate (removing leaves or softer springs) then installing air bags to get the load carrying capacity back (better ride)? BTW - I sold my 16 and am back in my trusty 7.3 for a couple more years. My rear springs in my 7.3 are still stock and no doubt sagged out (which I believe is why it rides so much better than the 16 did), but the airbags bring it right back to where I need it to be towing my 5er.

In case you are wandering why I got rid of the 16: Ford could not fix the bounce in the rear end of this truck (it was a long bed). They did try by installing a damper on the hitch, but it didn't help.

 

I must be one of the lucky ones. Lowered my 17 F350 SRW CCSB 6.7 and have had no vibration. Used the OEM blocks ftom a 16 F250 with no taper.. I pull a 35 ft 5th wheel that is 10,500 dry weight and 14,500 GVW.

 

 

do none of you people go offroad ? lowering the rear is one of the worst things you could do

 

Some of us bought our trucks for tow vehicles, not off roading toys.

 

Lowering the rear (AKA: reverse level) doesn't reduce ground clearance, nor does it reduce suspension travel. The only thing it does affect is exit angle (my bumper is about 1-1/2" lower than stock), and airbags can offset that if needed. Other than getting off pavement onto grassy areas and/or dirt/gravel roads, I would dare say that the vast majority of these trucks are never taken off road. So what's your point?

 

yes it reduces the departure angle, quit a bit actually, depending how much the rear is lowered. the break over angle is reduced as well. i guess its all of little importance if folks never go off road. to each their own

 

IMO, as a former owner of 4 jeeps, the wheelbase on my 2017 is just too long for any real practical "off-roading." If I still wanted to go rock crawling, it wouldn't be in CC F250. But with my truck, I have a very capable hauler/towing vehicle. I can still get up old log trails to maintain some property in the mountains, but I won't be on the Rubicon. The approach and departure angle is a non-issue in 95% of my use cases, and having slightly less rake is my preferred alternative. Like you said, "to each their own."

Now, /thread redirect - we now return you to your regularly scheduled success stories/lessons learned thread...

 

I lowered my CCLB with the PMF blocks, new bolts and nuts.
I can now see into the bed... Lol- I'm vertically challenged...
I parked next to another CCLB and the difference is definitely noticeable Walking by and at the tow ball. (dropped 2")
we'll see how it rides at 80mph in the morning...

 

 

Please post back on your vibration results after installing the new blocks. I also have a very slight vibration at those speeds using the same '16' blocks. I'd like to get it corrected before installing my OUO traction bars.

 

Will do! I think more people have the problem and don't notice it. It'll be next week when I report back.

 

It's a one piece drive shaft. Since these vibration posts started showing up I have paid close attention and cannot detect any vibration, even pulling my RV.

 

My 60 mile round trip at 80mph was nice and smooth.
Can't wait to hitch up the boat and see if I have a vibration....