Nope, not diving anywhere lol.

Just trying to think things through - which I haven't been doing lately LOL. I've been taking more of a "just do it" approach. Time to try something different... and it starts with doing as you suggested, ordering new gaskets (just because), and then removing the heads.

 

Excellent, that's what I wanted to hear.

I like what's in Aaron's head ! LOL

I'll post my explanations for test/observation one when you post up the numbers, and I'll do the same again for suggestion 2, when you get suggestion 2.

Did you find out from the manufacturer if you need the turkey pan ?

Have a look at your Tom Monroe book.

There should be a very descriptive explanation of valve spring heights and pressures.

 

Pages 84 - 87. (Yeah, I was curious. LOL)

 

I am also curious about the ignition/vacuum numbers as well... Though I dont think they'll come up very much. My mild setup with Comp 268h made about 17-18in/hg. Howard's 238101-09 was about 12-14in/hg

 

 

Excellent feedback.

I like your test on the HT leads.

A light show in a lead in the dark represents a f$$ked lead.

But another test, to be done at the time of purchase, and anytime thereafter if required, is to check the resistance,in ohms, per lead. (S/be <500 ohms per foot)

I've exchanged several brand new MSD leads in the past due to ohms readings not being acceptable.

This doesn't effect vacuum etc, but it does ensure that your engine is giving out 100% power.

There's an ohm specification for plugs too now that I think about it. (Can't remember the details off hand.)

3 1/2 minutes for warm up is perfect.

I know you have the right t/stat, but it only took 2 seconds to verify that it works 100%.

The reasons for tests 1 to 2 was to ensure that what you had posted previously, was still the same.

There was no reason for the numbers to change, but umm, no assumptions anymore !! LOL

The 37* less 15* represents vacuum advance timing of 22*. Nothing wrong with that.

The +/- 3'' extra vacuum is also fine.

The given rpms producing the numbers is also fine.

The point for doing test 1 and 2 was to give you (or confirm) a reliable starting point, and benchmark for any future use.

You can dial in the timing curve in the future.

Test 3 shows an increase of only 1/2 - 1'' vacuum increase at 47* timing (25 static + 22 vacuum adv).

I didn't expect too much of a vacuum increase, but I was interested to see the needle behaviour, and to see if you could start your engine.

Next time you read a forum debate on 20* static timing being too high, well, enough said.

I like the header temps test.

I must admit, I'm not sure what to make of them.

Cylinder 1 and 2 are the coolest, and have the highest cranking pressures (CP's).

Cylinders 3 and 4 are the hottest, but have the second highest CP's.

Cylinders 4 and 8 have a difference of only 1 CP between them, and yet have a 52C difference.

Cylinders 5 and 7 have exactly the same CP's but a 10C difference. (Not much I know.)

When the engine is fixed and the vacuum is up at a steady +/-19'', please do that test again and post up the temp numbers.

I also like the exhaust gas observation. You're becoming my teacher ! LOL

I think that grey is oil burning.

The vacuum needle behaviour is interesting, but no surprise.

I think you can guess what it means.

That brings us to the lifter preload settings which is the second and last test I'd like you to do.

The reason is this, you have never actually done it.

First, read pages 116-118 of Tom Monroe's book.

Make sure you understand it all, including the 0.06'' number that you previously mentioned.

Set the Number 1 cylinder to TDC checking that the dizzy rotor is pointing at the number 1 HT lead.

Measure the valve stem to rocker arm clearances and make a note. (The 2 'before' numbers.)

Adjust per the book, and make a note. (The 2 'after' numbers.) (There's 2 adjustment methods. Choose which one you like best.)

Do that in the firing order sequence then post up the 32 numbers.

Use 20 ft.lbs on all nuts.

This will give you a good practice run, but will also tell us if it was a problem or not.

If it turns out that you need longer or shorter push rods, now is the time to find out, not when you've removed the intake manifold etc.

That's why I said don't do 6,7 and 7a on your to do list yet.

Take your time, concentrate, and have fun.

And if someone interrupts you, just leave the ratchet on the nut that you're working on. LMAO (Yeah, I'm thinking about that video you posted.)

 

Young man, the first thing you should do with an engine that suddenly starts making noises that it didn't make before and shouldn't be making at all is. Remove the oil filter, cut it open and see if something is coming apart inside. That will let you know if there is something serious going wrong or not. Here is a picture of a filter and where you should cut it. Use a hacksaw and just cut through the filter canister where the arrow is. It's only about .040 thick and there should be a thicker piece under it so don't cut all the way through both of them. Use your pocket knife and cut the pleated filter media from the ends. Identify anything you find in there. Hopefully it will be clean as a pin, and all you have wrong is a collapsed lifter.

 

 

More excellent feedback.

LMAO at 'not answering the phone'.

There's a $50 fine for every time 'WTF' is used. LOL

I've never liked the option A method (or whatever it is) to set the preloads.

It's lazy, not very neat (mentally), and how the f$$k do we really know that the valve is closed and the lifter is on the cam whatever.

Method B, firing order method, takes a few minutes more, is neat, and the valves are closed. Period.

Using method A with its drawbacks is more than likely what caused the 'WTF's.

No, I don't get fined coz the 'WTF' is a quote. LOL

You mentioned that you heard a faint tick during, or right after, the rebuild.

Then you heard the same tick recently.

Ok, that makes sense.

We now have an answer as to why cylinders 1 and 2 were so cool in the header temp test.

If the loose push rods are not bent (roll them on a flat surface to check) , reinstall them.

Sand down the nicks if need be.

Then, carry on with Suggestion 2, but instead of posting 32 numbers, you'll be posting 29. (13 befores and 16 afters.)

Very, very, useful information, so yes, carry on.

After you have the numbers, whether posted or not, run the engine to operating temp and read the vacuum gauge.

Then post up the gauge readings.

My gut feel says that the vacuum will be up and the idle will be smooth.

Now in case you missed it, DO NOT DO POINTS 6, 7, 7a ON YOUR TO DO LIST YET. LOL

Don't consider ordering any push rods until you've posted up the 29 numbers.

If you get that done today, take Sunday off and put your feet up !

 

Crop Duster's post just reminded me.

Did you change the oil and filter yet ?

Initially your gut feel was to change the oil immediately after the run in.

You didn't because you were told otherwise.

Only trust 100% manufacturers' instructions. Period.

Forums are good up to a point.

You asked about getting advice for checking lifters etc.

No, read the Tom Monroe book first, then ask questions to double check what you've just learned.

Also, I might be talking utter sh$t, but your book will tell you if I am or not.

If you have to get to point 7a on your to do list, removing the heads, drain the coolant first.

Then, as it splashes everywhere from the block, try not to think about EZ or Fumoto valves!! LOL

 

 

I've only ever cut open an oil filter once, and that was a brand new, unused one.

I wanted to see the spring or something.

The oil pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, engine sound, gas and oil consumption, 'feel', and power, all tell me the state of the engine, so if I did cut open a filter and saw metal bits, then what ? LOL

Cutting open your filter and changing the oil + filter shortly certainly won't hurt.

I don't have the drain plug that you have, I have a non magnetic EZ valve.

But I do have a very powerful speaker magnet under the pan directly below the oil pump, and 2 stupidly expensive but powerful magnets on the filter itself.

All those do is slow down metal wear and tear, and I don't mind that at all.

With regard to zinc, what zinc and phosphorous ppm values does the HR2 contain ?

I don't need to know coz it's not sold in this country, but you need to know.

Too much zinc doesn't do an engine any favours.

I asked Comp Cams (or was it Edelbrock ?) a few questions about their zinc additive oil, and they couldn't answer.

Guess what I don't use ! LOL

I said that there was an alternative to buying different length push rods, and here it is, for info :

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...5-16/overview/

No rush for the info for the forum, but for you, yes.

 

I like that crane adjustable rocker arm set you have. Very nice looking set, and looks to be a viable option if I want an "OUT" for this non-adjustable set-up.

So here are the pictures I couldn't upload yesterday.

This is the worst pushrod. Some scratches and nicks were it was pushed up against the head casting, and bouncing near the rocker arm.... (NOT UNDER the rocker arm...)


Lovely sight when I yanked the valve cover saturday morning... Fulcrum wasn't seated on the pedestal on the head (as you can see by the gap in the photo).


So here's my first dilemma of the day... I am paying A LOT closer attention to the finer details... Houston - We have a problem...
Motor is at TDC, Compression Stroke (blew the rag out of the spark plug hole).


Looking very closely @ the Dizzy - The rotor is NOT pointing @ the #1 Spark Plug... Remember I set up my dizzy so that the #1 symbol on the cap was supposed to be DEAD TO NUTS on the #1 spark plug point??? Hmm....


So moving on... I mark where #1 is supposed to be based on the cap...


You can see how many degrees out in this photo if you look closely for the yellow paint marker.


I proceed as normal, to put the push rod BACK into the #1 intake location (because it was bouncing around).... Found an issue ladies and gentlemen...
In the photo below, this is the EXACT point in time where the rocker arm fulcrum is tighened down enough for the push rod to make contact with the rocker, and the rocker to JUST make contact with the valve tip.
If you look very closely at the rocker arm fulcrum, it's NOT seated on the head / pedestal.


When I tighten down the rocker bolt to FORCE the pedestal and fulcrum to meet, the valve BEGINS to depress (visually). See the photo below... difficult to tell but the valve HAS INDEED moved the same distance it took to get the fulcrum to seat against the pedestal on the head.


To confirm this, I removed everything and spun the motor back over AGAIN to make sure I was on the compression stroke. Confirmed, rag blew out of the hole again, brought it up to TDC.... Rotor points in the same spot (NOT directly on #1 spark plug wire), and the rocker fulcrum DOES NOT seat against the pedestal without compressing the spring (thereby opening the valve slightly).

I'm going to head back out to the garage to measure the angle different at the distributor... I'm guessing I'll find it's 15 degrees??? Verified using a mechanical compass (don't have a photo). Dizzy was EXACTLY at 15 degrees.

After that, I am going to attempt to get the rotor to point exactly at the yellow paint marker for #1 spark plug, and check @ the balancer to see what that angle tells me... Then I might try to assemble the rocker and pushrod again to see if after all that, I am finally on the base circle of the cam...

My initial thoughts are:
1) my balancer is not giving correct readings / I am NOT on the base-circle of the cam for #1 Cylinder Intake / Exhaust valves when the balancer reads 0 degrees (TDC).
2) I installed the distributor incorrectly upon assembly
Both those thoughts are incorrect... Verified by my next post.

This information is coming all BEFORE taking FML's 29 numbers (before / after).

 

The engine's been run and the lifter is pumped up, it's normal for the rocker stand (fulcrum) to not be all the way bottomed out when the clearance is gone. The extra amount it takes to tighten it down is part of the lifter preload.
Watch it as you tighten down the rocker stand, the valve will open a little but the lifter should then bleed down allowing the valve to close.
You don't notice this with new lifters because they don't have oil in them that has to bleed out, there forth the lifter plunger pushes down easily without opening the valve.

Tighten all of the rocker stands down to proper torque and then do a compression test, if compression is good on all cylinders install the plugs and valve covers then fire up the engine.

 

Good man, now you're getting it.

Phone Houston back and tell 'em it was a false alarm.

The balancer at 0* is correct, and at that point, cylinder 1 is indeed at TDC.

However, the ignition doesn't fire at 0*, it fires at 15* BTDC, which is why the rotor isn't 100% aimed at HT lead number 1.

Yes, you are correct, the rotor will be 15* out.

Haha, maybe I should have been 100% specific initially.

Like you suggested, set the balancer at 15* and the rotor should then be spot on with HT lead number 1.
(Then crank it back to TDC number 1 at 0*)

Reading Destroked's first 4 sentences, does he mean ''collapsing'' a lifter ?

Did the book make any mention of this ?