@ LiquidCowboy,

I like where you're going with the springs, but also I don't. LOL

@ Aaron

Checking spring settings is p$ss easy, so don't stress.

These 2 pics show how simple :

 

They look like nice tools.

I thought that the builder assembled the heads

 

@FMJ



i learned the hard way to not trust builders. Always measure twice lol
yes that's a hole in the head and a piece of a KB2347

 

@Aaron

this is the current status of my build. Probably going on back burner as I'll be switching jobs soon

 

@ LiquidCowboy

OMFG ! That would wipe the smile off of anyone's face.

And no doubt the builder wasn't shy to present you with his invoice initially.

Don't get me started.

On a lighter note, I forgot about your 'blower' build, and I see you're teasing Aaron as well now. LOL

I see the blower goodies as jewellery, but I still can't understand why the girlfriend doesn't !? LOL

 

Tank, mag, Port, polish, new ferra (he used stock multi grooves), .020 shave, and lunati 73815 springs.. $1800... He then had the ***** to ask "what's your problem dude?" When I called him out in front of his buddies at the track. I had to be calm though... Bonus is his shop went under

Yeah I'm biting the bullet and getting a custom crank for the blower but till then I'm slowly getting the n/a-nitrous motor together.

Edit* my gf helped me buy the blower lol

 

Interesting, so you guys are thinking that I do indeed need spring shims to get the correct spring pressures out of my comp spring set-up?

Sounds like the valves are sitting too deep into their seats and this is causing a domino affect with other moving parts...

So best way to test is to yank the heads off, remove the springs/valves, then check the distance between the spring hats and the head with a valve installed?

 

Correct Mr Aaron! I think you may have too little seat pressure for this. Head gaskets aren't too bad (except the damn comotecs) but it'll also give insight into checking your lifter wear pattern and possibly remedy any leaks at turkey pan as well. If they measure out over 1.82 you DEFINITELY want shims. I expect you'll see between 1.825-1.835 though. Once proper shims are in to get installed height right it should run helluva lot better. And see your vacuum come back up.

springs do have a run in/break in as well and though they were great brand new they're definitely ready for a check-up such as re checking assembled height vs recommended height, assembled being height from spring cup to bottom of retainer. If needed I can send up my height mic or you can pick one up for about ~$60 depending on who makes it.

****EDIT**** your head guy should have known this.

 

The head guy and the motor builder are the same person lol. He specializes in heads, which is why I'm guessing he mentioned the shim kit.... but only in passing... and after I paid... lol

I believe my dad might have a height mic, as he was a machinist in his older days... but his tools might have seen better days too lol. That's a very generous offer of you, and no I was not told that I needed to check springs after break-in.

After all the reading I've done, and all the research, and appearing stressed.... this "checking springs" after break-in is 100% new to me (never mentioned/seen before).

 

Checking springs before break in is proper, afterwards is only to correct an issue normally a failed spring but in this case... The assembled height needs checked. The springs themselves are most likely ok but without shims they act weak and allow valve bounce Id wager and that will cause weak vac, ticking, and heat issues which have all came up.
​​​​​

 

Sure, you can! Just use the Advanced editor.

 

@ ctubutis

It's not the first time you're helping me out. Thank you.

I'll be wearing one of my idiot T shirts for the rest of today. LOL

@ LiquidCowboy

She helped you buy the blower ! Time to make her Mrs LiquidCowboy.

I hope you triple checked the required compression ratios before ordering the custom crank.

@ Aaron

The nice thing about being 7 hours ahead of the US of A (and Canada) is that I get to wake up to very nice emails.

The bracket manufacturer confirmed that I can cut the brackets, as per their picture. Nice !

I could have started a thread to ask 'can I cut these?' , but I wouldn't have trusted any answers.

You're now asking if springs should be shimmed.

Only one person can answer that, and that is you !

For info, I had to shim 7 out of the 16 valve springs. (Quite normal I suppose.)

Checking and breaking in springs was mentioned already ages ago, so I won't repeat the detail.

Read the cam instructions, and it will say run at X rpms for X time.

Read the springs instructions and it will say something else.

Then you decide if the springs were broken in properly.

It's a real shame that the engine builder, who is also a head specialist (), is a dick.

Don't do 6, 7, and 7a on your to do list yet.

Post up the ignition + vacuum numbers first.

Then I'll ask you to do one more thing and post up results.

 

So if I understand this all correctly, I'm getting a weak vacuum signal from the motor because the springs may be acting like weaker-than-specified springs, and they're not slamming the valves closed at the rate they should be?

Essentially I'm losing vacuum cause they're closing too slowly - at least this is how I was imagining it in my head (edit: Aaron's head, not the motor's head LOL)...

 

It's not a weak signal, it's just weak vacuum.

Yes, if the valves do not close, there's a loss of vacuum, and crap idle, and, and, and.

 

Tell me you're not going to dive into head removal etc first.

I.E. Will you do two things I suggest first ?

You've got the first one already.