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Maybe I misunderstood. I assumed that this was the harness that runs out to the trailer connector. So, it would be a replacement for the one I have. No?
Jim - I am interested! That would save me from having to cut and solder several places where the original harness has been hacked. But, I don't need a pic as I'll trust your word. PM me regarding the cost.
As for the trailer connector, I hadn't thought about it. But, I will be using a brake controller so the connector will probably be the round 6-pin one. In fact, there are two of those on the truck and one is very new-looking, so I might as well use that. However, I might be better off to buy a new 7-pin connector like my 2015 F150 has from the factory. That would standardize my fleet, and I already have the 7-pin to 6-pin adaptor since I had to have it to tow Bruno's trailer.
And, speaking of brake controllers, do you have the male connector, or connector and wiring, that connects a controller to the harness near the brake pedal? I'm going to install a Tekonsha Prodigy like I have on Rusty, but would like to connect it to the truck's harness neatly.
I definitely would go with the Bargeman 7 pin, they have pretty well become the industry standard. Talking about the Prodigy, makes me glad Darth can still use the old Tekonsha hydraulic unit.
I still have the hydraulic controller that came off of Dad's truck, but prefer the ease of installation of the all-electric Prodigy. It has worked well on Rusty, so should work well on Big Blue. However, I doubt I'll be using BB to do much towing since I have Blue.
Having said that, I do plan to tow Dad's truck on a trailer to the car show in my home town in September using BB. That's a 200-mile round trip so will need to sort the wiring out and have the controller installed by then. I think it'll look good to have both vehicles be Bullnoses and, who knows, maybe both will win an award?
And the connector probably should be the 7-pin. I'll plan on that.
Maybe I misunderstood. I assumed that this was the harness that runs out to the trailer connector. So, it would be a replacement for the one I have. No?
Yes, it is a trailer socket tail that plugs between the rail harness and the taillight harness... but i am not sure of the plug configuration.
I'll try to get a pic the next time I'm at my storage container
Yes, the hydraulic ones are nice. But I won't be doing that much towing with BB and my experience w/the Prodigy says it'll work perfectly for what I do.
Now for the update: Two more layers peeled. Replaced the starter relay/solenoid and found both poor connections (see below) and bad grounds. So, I cleaned all of the connections including the battery posts, replaced the solenoid, and coated all connections with aluminum anti-seize.
And, while I was "in the neighborhood" I checked the regulator. Bad grounds, not poor grounds. So, I cleaned those as well and treated them to anti-seize.
It starts well now, so we are taking it on an outing this afternoon. Just exploring the Okiehoma countryside in Spring.
Short trip. Didn't start when we went out to leave. No solenoid noise, no nothing. And the voltage on the aftermarket voltmeter goes to zero when I turn the key to Start. Thoughts?
You know there is good and bad on coating the connections with anti-seize, grease or Vaseline.
Good they say and keep corrosion at bay.
Bad they say it can keep from making a good connection. This bad connection then gets hot and it melts into the connection and it gets worst.
Me I don't coat them.......I hate to mess with that crap when I have to pull the connections apart.
Dave ----
Well, it isn't the anti-seize that's causing the problem. There's only about 5 jolts coming through the trigger wire to the solenoid when it won't crank. But, let it sit for a bit and it cranks with the first try. And, with the key on and a little jumper it'll crank easily even when it doesn't do so with the key.
So, we are out and about and have put 60 miles on it at this point, with at least another 20 coming just to get home. No problems.
Boy, this engine is so easy to drive. It'll pull easily from 800 RPM, so shifting gears isn't required very often. Most street corners are taken in 3rd, and then you are into 4th and looking for 5th.
Home. We put 85 miles on it, from tooling along on gravel roads at 25 MPH to blasting down the Interstate at 70. Nary a problem, and it started perfectly every time. But, I know there's a problem lurking, so I have to find it.
I'm wondering if it is an ignition switch problem. Or, maybe an adjustment of the switch. Or, possibly the dreaded tilt problem? What are the symptoms of that - other than it won't start?
Gary, if it pulled the voltage down, something was making contact. Since that truck apparently still has the crack head power distribution it is hard to say. I would suspect the obviously poor connection at the hot side of the starter relay, that's what my 58 would do, no click, nothing, just everything went dead, let up on the key, gauges would come back up (no voltmeter, as it had a 25 amp generator).
It didn't pull the voltage. I put my DVM on the battery and going to Start the voltage doesn't really waver. Same at the post of the solenoid, so there's no connection problem there.
When I turn the key to Start most things in the cab die, inc the voltmeter. But, many things are supposed to shut off then, so I'm not sure what is happening. Will have to test more tomorrow or Monday. Perhaps a bad fusible link?
Turning the key to START removes power from just about everything except the various external lighting circuits.
And apparently wherever the voltmeter is getting its juice is one of those "just about everything" circuits, which explains why it goes to zero in Start.
If it weren't for the fact that it cranks when cold I'd think it is the piece in the tilt-wheel. But I can't imagine that working when cold and not when hot. It should either work or not. So, this is a puzzler, and suggestions would be appreciated.
Gary, does Big Blue still have the clutch switch? They were a know issue for starting problems. Hook and LED to the S terminal on the starter relay and ground it to a suitable location inside and mounted where you can easily see it. If it lights, starter relay is seeing a crank signal, if not, then it becomes backtrack time.
