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International makes a kit to do this, I think it's $50.oo. I just did mine, it's a 99 SD, but just changed the o-ring and used motorcraft pan sealant on the out side under the nut and up on the treads, so far so good. Mitt be different on the 97 and eariler trucks. I didn't use the international kit. Have friends that did and never had a problem. I wasn't pulling the motor for this, and the finished product looks great.
Got a link? I've never seen the International kit to do this. The only one I've seen is a replacement stock adapter which requires pulling the engine to get the pan out.
Originally Posted by knottyrope
those bonded sealing washers made of rubber or Viton?
Not sure. Probably just rubber so we will see how well they hold up. If these don't last I'll probably try some copper washers; I'm just not sure how smooth of a surface I can get for them to seal.
I went and grabbed another bonded washer and am currently soaking it in oil. We'll see what happens in a day or two. I also found some fiber washers that might use instead. Then I finished the backing plate and test fitted it with a short piece of tubing and the dipstick. Slides right in no problem.
Everything looks better with a little paint. These are the fiber washers I found; I think I'm going to start with them. Yesterday I was watching Youtube on how to grind a regular drill bit to cut a flat bottom hole. I think a small recess with these fiber washers would be the ticket.
Thanks Bill! Last night I noticed a potential design flaw: with the backing plate being flat it could bottom out on the small diameter of the adapter and not the inside of the pan. I think I would have been ok because of the thickness of the gasket on the outside, but better to be safe than sorry, right? So I welded some 'tabs' to the ends of the backing plate to ensure it hits the pan only. Hopefully I will be able to install it this afternoon.
The International repair kit number is 1846146C91. Look on the 1999-203 site for the repair. Andy did the repair back in 2077 on his 1999. I talked to him and it is still holding. I'm not good on these things so posting a web site I can't do. Mine is still holding the way I did it also.
I did some searching on that International kit and it looks like it's the reseal kit for the stock adapter which I've already tried. But as you'll see below, the stock adapter gets bent and the o-ring has a hard time sealing.
There's that leaky POS!
Here's where you can see the adapter inside is bent.
The point of no return! Pan cleaned up and ready for the new adapter.
And there she is!
I used a little black rtv on both sides of the gasket and since there is plenty of dipstick tube below the o-ring crimps, I went ahead and put it back in without cutting it. If all is well in a few days, I'll cut the tube to length. In the meantime I scratched a new 'full' mark on the dipstick to compensate for the extra length.
The international kit comes with two sealants, RTV-T-442 and 515 lock tight besides the o-rings. And yes you have to clean it up really good. Your repair that leaked didn't show the way they said to do it. But I'm glad you got her done. Real clean looking.
The international kit comes with two sealants, RTV-T-442 and 515 lock tight besides the o-rings. And yes you have to clean it up really good. Your repair that leaked didn't show the way they said to do it. But I'm glad you got her done. Real clean looking.
This is the repair kit I did back around '09. It doesn't have the RTV, just the 515.
But my main problem is that I needed a new adapter inside. As you can see in this video (~2:10 mark), the stock adapter gets bent and keeps the o-ring from getting a tight seal. So it's time to either pull the engine and pan or get an adapter that bolts from the outside. I also think that most of my leak was from around the dipstick tube itself, which is another reason I wanted to make my own to eliminate that o-ring.
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Pan cleaned up and ready for the new adapter.
