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What size fuse is everyone using for the fuel pump? 20A? 30A?
I think I have a 20 amp in mine........I can't remember now! LOL!
I'm sorry I haven't had time to build you an e-fuel kit. The job I have now, I drive 152 miles a day to and from work, and have been covered up lately in the shop here at home. If I had the time, I would sure have done it. Looks like you have it handled though
I think I have a 20 amp in mine........I can't remember now! LOL!
I'm sorry I haven't had time to build you an e-fuel kit. The job I have now, I drive 152 miles a day to and from work, and have been covered up lately in the shop here at home. If I had the time, I would sure have done it. Looks like you have it handled though
Don't worry about it at all Bill. I was considering buying one because I didn't think I had the time to put one together. The clutch has necessitated that I make time. And thanks again for the collector; I owe you one.
Got the new injectors in last night, mounted the fuel regulator and hooked up the return lines, removed the fuel bowl wires from the harness so now it only has the IPR plug, and started getting the turbo ready to go back in.
The old injectors; there was a rather large piece of foreign material that came out with #3...
Up pipes are done, painted, and ready to go back in...
Fuel pump and filters are mounted and hooked up...
And we have pressure! Only found one leak so far at the rear of the drivers head; a couple more turns on the compression fitting seems to have fixed it.
Finished the FP wiring, or so I thought. My initial wiring diagram will not work properly. The grounding wire for the WTS light is a constant ground while the key is off, when the key is turned on power is supplied to the WTS light, then the ECU will cut the ground to turn the light off; but turn the key off and the ground comes back, causing the FP to run constantly. I tied into the WTS light at the S166 connector shown below...
I think I can still get it to work the way I want by just supplying the relay coil with key on power instead of feeding it from the same maxi fuse as the FP. I just need to probe abound in the box to find a key on source, probably one of the smaller fuses since all of the maxi fuses are fed from the bus bar. Something like this... EDIT: I moved the solenoid power to Fuse #22. Final wiring diagram is below.
Here's some pictures of the relay box and rollover switch; nice and clean look.
Since I couldn't go any further on the FP wiring until I gave it some thought, I switched gears and put the up pipes back in and changed the rear main seal. Hopefully tonight will be the flywheel, clutch, and trans.
So in your original wiring plan you had power to the relay at all times, not just with the key in run/start postions?
Correct. The idea was that it would have power but no ground. The switch side of the relay will still have constant power, just the solenoid is going to be moved to key on power.
So I moved the power source for the FP relay solenoid to the #22 fuse which is key on power for the fuel heater; now the FP works like I wanted it to... on and off with the WTS light. Then of course it should come on permanently with oil pressure; I haven't tried starting it yet.
Well I stayed up till 1am and got further than I planned: clutch, trans, tcase, and drivelines are back in.
So I knew that my engine is not the original because of the Navistar reman stickers on the passenger valve cover, but I never knew when it was replaced. Yesterday while looking through the owner's manual I found this...
Looks like I only have about 180k miles on this engine. Can't wait hear her roar to life again.
