1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Cummins swap/frame question

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  #466  
Old 07-01-2017, 05:40 PM
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yes, driveshaft will need to be shortened. Already have the slip-yoke for the trans, as that is keeping in the $90 worth of trans oil.....

Throttle cable will be easy. EFI 4.9L cable should work, sine the original is about 1/4" too short.....
 
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Old 07-01-2017, 05:51 PM
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I was rather bummed a couple weeks ago, me and my son spent the whole day (fathers day) trying to get it running, and just could not get it to fire up.
Pulled the injectors and ran a compression test last weekend, all looked good. Took the injectors over to have tested, and two were stuck open. Put the injectors in today, and it started so quick and easy, like it did back when I had it running on the shop floor.
 
  #468  
Old 07-01-2017, 06:00 PM
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That would be a bummer. Glad you figured it out. Sounds like you are in the home stretch.
 
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Old 07-08-2017, 05:13 PM
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It went for a short maiden voyage today, to the station for $15 of diesel..........
 
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Old 07-08-2017, 05:35 PM
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Congrat's!!!
 
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Old 07-09-2017, 06:49 PM
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After adding a bit more exhaust pipe, I took it for another short drive. This time I got it out on the highway for a bit, about 2 miles, before turning around and coming back to the shop. No idea how far off the speedometer is, but it at least shows something.
I was a bit nervous about how well it could cope with the rather tall rear gear ratio (2.75) in OD, but it pulled rather well. Surprising, when you consider the final drive ratio is 2.0075 : 1 (2.75 X .73 OD). This means the engine is only turning twice the RPM as the tires.....
Have to remove the top of the injection pump to fix a leak. Not only does it get fuel everywhere, but it allows air into the pump when shut off, making it hard to start if I don't pump the manual primer lever. At least it has one........

Brakes are rather soft, probably still have air in the master cyl, but it stops without any drama. Haven't even knocked all the rust off the rotors yet.

Engine runs rather cool, once the t-stat opens. At some point, I will be adding a cooling fan of some sort. Will also be draining the water out, and putting in real coolant. The fan will become mandatory when I start getting the A/C plumbed.

Overall, I'm pleased with how it runs, but there's a few little things left to sort out.
 
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:37 PM
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Those gears are TALL! But ifnitll pull them you have a winner.
 
  #473  
Old 07-09-2017, 11:08 PM
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I know that there are cummins mounts from ford dump trucks that make it a simple install. The frames are about 1/16" thicker per model... ie F150 is 1/16" thicker than F100 and F350 is 1/16" thicker than F250...and so on
 
  #474  
Old 07-10-2017, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Those gears are TALL! But ifnitll pull them you have a winner.

Hmmm... 25+ mpg?
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:23 AM
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Better than that, I'll bet.
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:26 AM
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My first thought was 30...
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:29 AM
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Maybe he will know by September? Gotta see this thing!
 
  #478  
Old 07-10-2017, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Maybe he will know by September? Gotta see this thing!

Remember powder coating the valve covers? You also removed [milled] the DODGE from an intake piece.
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:38 AM
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The "cuss words". Yes, I remember.
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gravelstne
I know that there are cummins mounts from ford dump trucks that make it a simple install. The frames are about 1/16" thicker per model... ie F150 is 1/16" thicker than F100 and F350 is 1/16" thicker than F250...and so on
I made some custom engine brackets, and set it down on stock mounts, into the factory I-6 frame stands.


As for the MPG guesses, I'm hoping to top 30. But, anything over 15 will be an improvement on what it did with the gas 6.......
 


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