Dad's Engine
#32
That's one heck of a deal if you can salvage a few things like you said.
It got me looking into some 302s on craigslist. If it's not 100% obvious,I know hardly anything about these things. It would seem like a good investment to tear an engine down and maybe even rebuild it before it's time for mine. That was the idea: old truck new drive train.
It has been a privilege to sit in on these conversations and get a glimpse into the thought process.
It got me looking into some 302s on craigslist. If it's not 100% obvious,I know hardly anything about these things. It would seem like a good investment to tear an engine down and maybe even rebuild it before it's time for mine. That was the idea: old truck new drive train.
It has been a privilege to sit in on these conversations and get a glimpse into the thought process.
But still, $40? I can never find deals like that. I'd buy it just to say I have it, even if it was worthless. You can make an awesome table out of it!
#34
I don't know of a non-invasive way to prove it is a 400 or an M w/o spinning the crank to measure the stroke. And this one is supposed to be locked up so I don't want to try to measure it. But as Shaun said, it is worth $40 regardless, although I'm not sure about the table bit.
So, here's what I was told vs what we think we know:
Oh, and CC - Don't go with a 302. As Shaun said, do a 351W. You'll thank us later.
So, here's what I was told vs what we think we know:
- It is a 400: Yet to be determined. But the casting #'s, shown in my albums, say it could be.
- It is from a '78 F250: Will never know but a 250 would have gotten the 400 - I think
- Has never been apart: The silly-cone proves otherwise if the respray doesn't
- Has 35k miles on it: Unlikely if it has been apart.
- Had a 4bbl from the factory: Well, the fact that he said Motorcraft would lend some credence, but why does ND say they didn't exist if they did? (I don't trust the books.)
Oh, and CC - Don't go with a 302. As Shaun said, do a 351W. You'll thank us later.
#36
I think I just cracked the casting date code for the block. As shown in the pic below the code is 8L14, and according to the book I have on Cleveland engines that decodes to:
- 8 = 1978
- L = 12th letter of alphabet so is December
- 14 is the day of the month.
#37
Yea, that motor has been touched. And not by an angel. At least they painted it blue instead of gray like my .60 over 400. Then again, they did stuff it into a 1987 Bronco, so gray would have been the correct color for that year.
But still, $40? I can never find deals like that. I'd buy it just to say I have it, even if it was worthless. You can make an awesome table out of it!
It would have to be spectacularly bad not to be worth$40.
I like the table idea (again no pics). The one in top gear is awesome(might be the British version, can't remember).
I just now started thinking about the 351. Its a lot to take in. I feel like I'm learning Spanish by being dropped in Mexico with out a map at times. Either way I like the idea of exploring my first engine being one I'm not using at the time.
#38
Gary,
I have no doubt about the 351. I need torque for what I want the truck to do and the more power with the least amount of mods would be the way go. You just got me thinking about tinkering with a spare engine the other day, so it's still in its infancy.
It doesn't make sense to go with a 302 when y'all put like that lol. I'll add it to the list. Right now a prison sentence in a library doesn't sound half bad. Lots more reading to do
I have no doubt about the 351. I need torque for what I want the truck to do and the more power with the least amount of mods would be the way go. You just got me thinking about tinkering with a spare engine the other day, so it's still in its infancy.
It doesn't make sense to go with a 302 when y'all put like that lol. I'll add it to the list. Right now a prison sentence in a library doesn't sound half bad. Lots more reading to do
#39
Gary, don't forget that Ford was famous for casting huge numbers of blocks, then letting them "season" for 6 months to 2+ years, before finally getting around to using them.....
As such, it's entirely possible that block didn't meet a chassis until 81.......
I'd pop off the pan, and look for a crank casting number. That's the quickest way to know whether it has a 351M or 400 crank.......
As such, it's entirely possible that block didn't meet a chassis until 81.......
I'd pop off the pan, and look for a crank casting number. That's the quickest way to know whether it has a 351M or 400 crank.......
#40
CC - A 351W will give you a lot more torque with no more cost to build than a 302. I wouldn't build a 302 for one of these trucks unless it was a full-on restoration going for max points. Anything else would get the cubes from a 351W.
RW - I've heard the stories about Ford letting the blocks season, but I've also heard they made far more of them than it turned out they needed since in M mode they weren't selling well. So they put them in the F150's through '81 when the E series got the W in 81. In any event, Ford seems to have cast a bunch of the blocks that set for years, so you are entirely right - this block may well have been in an '81 truck - hopefully a 250.
Toward determining what it is, I fully agree with your suggestion and have already found the page in my book that shows the casting codes for the crank. But in reality figuring out if it has a 4" vs a 3.5" stroke should be able to be done with a tape measure. In any event, I have to get it on the stand first, which will take a bit of work. Hopefully I'll get the pan and heads off this afternoon and know what I'm dealing with.
RW - I've heard the stories about Ford letting the blocks season, but I've also heard they made far more of them than it turned out they needed since in M mode they weren't selling well. So they put them in the F150's through '81 when the E series got the W in 81. In any event, Ford seems to have cast a bunch of the blocks that set for years, so you are entirely right - this block may well have been in an '81 truck - hopefully a 250.
Toward determining what it is, I fully agree with your suggestion and have already found the page in my book that shows the casting codes for the crank. But in reality figuring out if it has a 4" vs a 3.5" stroke should be able to be done with a tape measure. In any event, I have to get it on the stand first, which will take a bit of work. Hopefully I'll get the pan and heads off this afternoon and know what I'm dealing with.
#41
#42
#43