that's a good catch if that's what that is

 

I wonder why the manual you have was wrong about the stamp?

 

The manual didn't say anything about the stamp. The shop manual said all the spec's except rod throw are the same. The book I have on the Cleveland series gave info on the stamp and I don't think it is wrong but the factory didn't fully stamp this crank.

 

That crank certainly looks better than the 3 cyl perkins we tore down today. #2 rod had no bearing left, aside for from a few tiny particles stuck to journal and rod.........
No wonder it was knocking at both ends. The piston was actually slapping the underside of the head.......

Glad you got the crank out and discovered it *is* a 400. That's about the only thing you were told that is true.

 

So that aftermarket book was right.

 

The stamp looks like it was clocked wrong. Rather it was the crank out of position or if the actual die stamp itself was for some reason. It needs to be turned more clockwise. The position where it struck makes me think that the stamp didn't mark because it went off on the radius portion where the rest of it couldn't make contact with the surface. So possibly the Cleveland book had good intel on that portion.

The same book I was referring to was making claim that the heads I sold (C5AE) were the HiPo version. Come to find out they weren't. So some of these aftermarket books are not 100% accurate, but never the less have some good info in them.

 

I'm sorry, way to much being read into truths here about a possible 400. The guy sold it for 40 bucks. Seems to me he was unsure on the whole history and was as honest as he could be. Let's not make this a witch hunt like some of the other eras.

If it turned out to be a 351m for 40 bucks would it be that horrible. I fail to see where anyone was deceived here.

I truly believe Gary would not be upset either way. This seems like a small gamble that paid off very well for Gary.

 

Yes, it was a small gamble that paid off well. And I knew the probability of it being an unmolested 400 with 35K on it and only needing new seals for $40 was extremely remote. But the only thing I really wanted was a 400 crank and I got one.

I do think Shaun is right as that piston does suggest it has been bored .030" over. And there's a stamp on the crank that suggests it has been turned .010". But that shouldn't be a problem on the crank, and given the horrible rust in #4 the fact the block's been bored that far isn't a problem. I had toyed with the idea of placing these heads on Dad's engine and leaving it set, but now that I've seen the rust on this one as well as the poor state the mains and rods are in I'm pretty sure I'll use Dad's block and rods and this one will go to scrap.

So now I'm laying plans on what I want to do and where I'll get the parts and have the work done. I would like to work the rods over to remove all the parting lines, sharp edges, etc on both the crank and the rods. That means it will have to be balanced. And since the crank has to be turned and the rods will need to be resized I think I'll have it align bored. Having gone that far I'll have it deck plate honed when it is bored.

So, I need to get some #'s from machine shops and compare them to Tim's price for a fully balanced rotating assembly. Time for some pencil work.

 

The guy claimed it to be a 78 400, with only 35K total miles. It's not a 78 engine, and has been into, typically not needed with only 35K *actual* miles.
In other words, the *only* part of the ad that was correct, was the 400.
I'm sure the guy had no idea what it *really* was, and was going by what someone told him years ago........

No, I doubt Gary would have been too upset had it turned out to be a 351M. Those things will bring a few bucks at the scrap yard.......
And he would have had a spare set of heads to cut open, in order to see how much porting can be done safely.

 

I thought it was a good score!

 

For $40 it would have been a good parts engine at the worst. Probably get a few bucks for the block at a scrap yard after it was parted out too.

 

Hey, I forgot that I got a free dizzy, with 3 wire nuts no less, a thermostat, two mounts, an oil pump, two valve covers, an oil pan, and the heads RW mentioned.

And, while nothing but the "400" of what the guy told me was correct, I agree with RW - he was telling me what he's been told over the years. And, I trust him implicitly - his father had a Grabber Blue '72 F150 that was the twin of mine save for mine having Matthew's fav engine and 8-lug wheels. So he's gotta be a good guy - right?

I forgot to get pics of a few things on this crank, but will tomorrow. One is the wicked flashing on the #1 throw. That's gotta go. Another is the dings in it from a couple of rod bolts. So the crank needs some work but I am happy.

Further, the whole episode is a lesson for buying things on CL - caveat emptor. I had a good experience because I knew it was too good to be true and expected it to be less than advertised. But I knew I couldn't get hurt with that price.

 

'52 Ford F1 drag truck

 

Chris - Interesting read. Thanks. And, it reminded me that I want to zero-deck the pistons to get max quench and reasonable compression ratio with the Eddy heads.

 

Come on Gary, do the Top Gear table! haha Take it and have it acid dipped and then paint it and clearcoat and then put some glass on top of it and you got a B.A. table