WickidPissa Build Thread
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
No prob. It was a good exercise for my brain. Its been quite a while.
One other think I thought of. Fill all of the large empty spaces in with blocks in the trace program. That is way more copper than you need to etch. They blocks won't hurt anything as long as they are isolated from your connections and they will drastically decrease the time and effort needed to etch them.
This was my last go at it:
If you look carefully, you can see where I left blocks of copper. I marked your first trace in red to try and show you what I mean.
I still need to look at those drill bit sizes. I forgot last night.
One other think I thought of. Fill all of the large empty spaces in with blocks in the trace program. That is way more copper than you need to etch. They blocks won't hurt anything as long as they are isolated from your connections and they will drastically decrease the time and effort needed to etch them.
This was my last go at it:
If you look carefully, you can see where I left blocks of copper. I marked your first trace in red to try and show you what I mean.
I still need to look at those drill bit sizes. I forgot last night.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Dirty Water
Ya basically the entire design has changed, to fit an enclosure. I settled on one after designing the board, which was backwards. I'm also revising the CD4001B and 555 circuits.
Can I have a CD4001B essentially power a 555? Like, if the nor is low, the 555 won't work, but if the NOR Y goes high, the 555 is powered and can be triggered by the lock/unlock inputs... That's what I'm looking for. Then that whole thing goes through a pretty heavy transistor (i forget which one i researched) to then power the 4 relays.
I need to break the breadboard out again with both ICs and everything here. I think I'm a step ahead of myself with etching drawings, because it's all (aside from the 555, that i tested) theoretical. I haven't even bought the 4001 yet.
Can I have a CD4001B essentially power a 555? Like, if the nor is low, the 555 won't work, but if the NOR Y goes high, the 555 is powered and can be triggered by the lock/unlock inputs... That's what I'm looking for. Then that whole thing goes through a pretty heavy transistor (i forget which one i researched) to then power the 4 relays.
I need to break the breadboard out again with both ICs and everything here. I think I'm a step ahead of myself with etching drawings, because it's all (aside from the 555, that i tested) theoretical. I haven't even bought the 4001 yet.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I believe you'd need to power the 555 constantly and route the NOR gate to the Trigger of the 555. You would need to test this, but I wouldn't power anything from a little logic chip. If you have to, use a little transistor to power the 555 with the output of the NOR gate activating it.
Another thought.... you'll probably want to have a 1uF capacitor across +12V and GND in the circuit. Activating the relays could cause quite a voltage spike on the board and interfere with the functionality of your logic. The capacitor helps dampen this spike.
Another thought.... you'll probably want to have a 1uF capacitor across +12V and GND in the circuit. Activating the relays could cause quite a voltage spike on the board and interfere with the functionality of your logic. The capacitor helps dampen this spike.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Dirty Water
The NOR is only to enable the whole circuit, only if ignition is on (A) and it's dark out (B). I figured Y could power the 555, since it's trigger is a lock or unlock pulse from the truck. The idea is when the lock or unlock is pressed on the remote, the lights come on. But only if the car is off and only if it's dark out. The light sensor was easy, the 555 was tested and is easy, it's getting it all to work when the 4001 says so that's starting to get confusing.
So, you're saying "power" a transistor with Y, and have the transistor power the 555?
I do have caps and resistors on power and ground right now
So, you're saying "power" a transistor with Y, and have the transistor power the 555?
I do have caps and resistors on power and ground right now
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
This will take me a little while to explain. For starters, take a look at this: Using the Transistor as a Switch - Transistor Switching
You'd be looking at a basic transistor switching circuit with the load being the 555 timer and the transistor makes the connection to ground on the 555.
I'd highly recommend iCircuit as well. Its a fantastic app and should have everything you need to verify this circuit design. It handles the calculations as well and lets you see oscilloscope and multimeter readings of all different parts of the circuit.
About - iCircuit - The Realtime Circuit Simulator and Editor
I will go into more detail tonight if you need it. I don't have a ton of time at the moment.
You'd be looking at a basic transistor switching circuit with the load being the 555 timer and the transistor makes the connection to ground on the 555.
I'd highly recommend iCircuit as well. Its a fantastic app and should have everything you need to verify this circuit design. It handles the calculations as well and lets you see oscilloscope and multimeter readings of all different parts of the circuit.
About - iCircuit - The Realtime Circuit Simulator and Editor
I will go into more detail tonight if you need it. I don't have a ton of time at the moment.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Dirty Water
Just bought iCircuit for Win8... I'll probably get it for the ipad later... but man is this awesome.
555 timer works, added the photoresistor circuit, adding the NOR and the rest of the stuff now.
This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for!!!
One question with the light sensor - is there a way to make the output either all the way on, or all the way off? It seems "dimmable" if you will, where I want it full high or nothing at all...
555 timer works, added the photoresistor circuit, adding the NOR and the rest of the stuff now.
This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for!!!
One question with the light sensor - is there a way to make the output either all the way on, or all the way off? It seems "dimmable" if you will, where I want it full high or nothing at all...
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Dirty Water
Cool, that sounds like it'll do the trick. Is it just me, or does iCircuit lack a lot of stuff.... Can you add components?
EDIT: Also, let me just say that you're already 1000 times more helpful than the nerd forums. All they do is yell at each other to "go and research semiconductors first" or "google it, *******" and other assorted pathetic ethuggery from mom's basement lol.
PM me and I'll email you the iCircuit doc I have...
EDIT: Also, let me just say that you're already 1000 times more helpful than the nerd forums. All they do is yell at each other to "go and research semiconductors first" or "google it, *******" and other assorted pathetic ethuggery from mom's basement lol.
PM me and I'll email you the iCircuit doc I have...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Cool, that sounds like it'll do the trick. Is it just me, or does iCircuit lack a lot of stuff.... Can you add components?
EDIT: Also, let me just say that you're already 1000 times more helpful than the nerd forums. All they do is yell at each other to "go and research semiconductors first" or "google it, *******" and other assorted pathetic ethuggery from mom's basement lol.
PM me and I'll email you the iCircuit doc I have...
EDIT: Also, let me just say that you're already 1000 times more helpful than the nerd forums. All they do is yell at each other to "go and research semiconductors first" or "google it, *******" and other assorted pathetic ethuggery from mom's basement lol.
PM me and I'll email you the iCircuit doc I have...
Lol. I was a nerd in a previous life lol. I try to help where I can. My robot project taught me a ton about this stuff and I had all the same questions you are asking now. Without taking a class dedicated to it, its extrememly challenging to get through it all. I have a little time to give you answers and I believe knowledge is useless if you can't share it with others.
That being said, I need to get out of work and get a cold high life in my hand
PM coming shortly.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
The drill bit sizes you need are CBD #70 (0.0280") and CBD #65 (0.0350").
And here are a few shots of other ones I did. I etched way too much copper off the first one. I learned from that. I'd also recommend using sockets for the integrated circuit chips you were going to use (such as the 555). That way you can't ruin them soldering and they will be easily replaceable. Also make sure that you order the part number with the extended temperature range. Some of the chips are only good to 32F and if you live in the colder climates, you need to order ones that are suitable.
And here are a few shots of other ones I did. I etched way too much copper off the first one. I learned from that. I'd also recommend using sockets for the integrated circuit chips you were going to use (such as the 555). That way you can't ruin them soldering and they will be easily replaceable. Also make sure that you order the part number with the extended temperature range. Some of the chips are only good to 32F and if you live in the colder climates, you need to order ones that are suitable.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Dirty Water
Impressive stuff... I'm getting more anxious now to get the design finished and prototyped. iCircuit is awesome, it just lacks components I need, so testing is sort of difficult right now. The op-amp is 3-pin, but a typical one also has the + and - pins. The 555 has no GND pin, which I was going to switch with a transistor from the nor gate, which is fed by the photoresistor/op-amp, and the ignition switch (which needs a resistor and cap, correct?)
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I will look at your iCircuit file ASAP. I have a deadline at work on a programming project and it is draining me. I've been at it for 14 hours today and I can barely figure out how to use a door **** lol.
From your last post, I can say that the op amp has two supply pins. If you look at the info on the op amp, you can select the two supply voltages. I don't remember what you need for a voltage comparator. I believe you can get a comparator chip instead of having to make on from an op amp chip in real life.
We can work on getting the feed right. I can find a different transistor circuit to feed the power pin to the 555 for testing purposes.
I am not going to be a ton of help tonight. Hopefully tomorrow will be better lol
From your last post, I can say that the op amp has two supply pins. If you look at the info on the op amp, you can select the two supply voltages. I don't remember what you need for a voltage comparator. I believe you can get a comparator chip instead of having to make on from an op amp chip in real life.
We can work on getting the feed right. I can find a different transistor circuit to feed the power pin to the 555 for testing purposes.
I am not going to be a ton of help tonight. Hopefully tomorrow will be better lol
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Elder User
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From: Dirty Water
I'm also looking to add another trigger - when ignition shuts off, the lights come on (same way the interior lights do).
I'm thinking another 555 - 2 seconds after the ignition shuts off, the first 555 is triggered. I still need a way to trigger the "second" 555 (can't use a 556, because the first 555 will be killed with ignition on, or if it's light out)
I need this trigger:
EDIT: I also changed the 555 to retriggerable for this purpose... So if i keep pressing lock or unlock on the remote, it'll extend the time.
I'm thinking another 555 - 2 seconds after the ignition shuts off, the first 555 is triggered. I still need a way to trigger the "second" 555 (can't use a 556, because the first 555 will be killed with ignition on, or if it's light out)
I need this trigger:
EDIT: I also changed the 555 to retriggerable for this purpose... So if i keep pressing lock or unlock on the remote, it'll extend the time.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Dirty Water
Well, took the truck up to my father's shop yesterday, did a brake inspection (still tons left), front and rear diff (front was pissa, rear needs to be changed pretty bad), and tried to find the noise that I suspect is a left front wheel bearing. No noise on the lift, but we're both convinced that's what it is. So, time for a Timken. Still gotta do that coolant flush and fill too - seems like a ridiculously long process lol.
And the tailgate needs paint - it's been one thing after another every weekend this summer, hopefully I'll have time soon.
The courtesy light module is just about ready to prototype... I made a test sample and it seems to work.
I really need to hit Powerball so I can get this stuff done without work getting in the way...
And the tailgate needs paint - it's been one thing after another every weekend this summer, hopefully I'll have time soon.
The courtesy light module is just about ready to prototype... I made a test sample and it seems to work.
I really need to hit Powerball so I can get this stuff done without work getting in the way...
