WickidPissa Build Thread
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Water
Next option would be to have the body shop at my father's dealership do it. I asked him to ask Sam the Body Shop manager what he'd charge me to do it - welded not cheesed.
Best option, yes, would be a new bed entirely, rust-free. But I'd be looking at well over a grand, no? Shipping would be a killer from the south or southwest.
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 208,500
Likes: 410
From: Omaha/Elkhorn, NE
Yeah, you have a point, would be much cheaper for you to do it! I don't know about out there, we have guys that sell beds that they bring back from Texas that are rust free. Probably a grand for one of them, but I haven't checked the price for sure.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
Likes: 1,679
From: Stephensville WI
Cheapest way would be for me to do the body work myself, and paint it myself. Around $150 for tins, and probably another $100 to paint. And all my time.
Next option would be to have the body shop at my father's dealership do it. I asked him to ask Sam the Body Shop manager what he'd charge me to do it - welded not cheesed.
Best option, yes, would be a new bed entirely, rust-free. But I'd be looking at well over a grand, no? Shipping would be a killer from the south or southwest.
Next option would be to have the body shop at my father's dealership do it. I asked him to ask Sam the Body Shop manager what he'd charge me to do it - welded not cheesed.
Best option, yes, would be a new bed entirely, rust-free. But I'd be looking at well over a grand, no? Shipping would be a killer from the south or southwest.
Screw that.......road trip!
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Water
Hahaha I already thought about it. Work's sending me to Indiana in early June (most likely, still not confirmed). Finding one out there would be pissa.
Thanks. It seemed like a good place, not to mention one of the only spots under the whole hood. Not a lot of real estate under there.
Thanks Rax. I thought about doing a video walkaround - maybe soon... 
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
When you wet sanded the grill, what grit did you use?
Love the truck and the do it yourself attitude. You do great body work!
Love the truck and the do it yourself attitude. You do great body work!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Water
The bumper I did wetsand. In the pics it was only 1000 grit, then compound and polish. I have since re-done 1000, then 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000 - then compound and polish.
Thanks!
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,607
Likes: 151
From: SE Georgia
good looking truck and cool updates/upgrades. I always enjoy seeing builds. It's cool to see the ideas and how guys add personal touches. The coolant filter is neat
does that filter have SCA additives? If so, you need to get it out of the truck and flush your coolant. The SCA additives are bad for your motor. You need a coolant filter that only filters.
Only Big Rigs and certain other diesels need SCA additives (ie: 7.3).
does that filter have SCA additives? If so, you need to get it out of the truck and flush your coolant. The SCA additives are bad for your motor. You need a coolant filter that only filters.
Only Big Rigs and certain other diesels need SCA additives (ie: 7.3).
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Water
good looking truck and cool updates/upgrades. I always enjoy seeing builds. It's cool to see the ideas and how guys add personal touches. The coolant filter is neat
does that filter have SCA additives? If so, you need to get it out of the truck and flush your coolant. The SCA additives are bad for your motor. You need a coolant filter that only filters.
Only Big Rigs and certain other diesels need SCA additives (ie: 7.3).
does that filter have SCA additives? If so, you need to get it out of the truck and flush your coolant. The SCA additives are bad for your motor. You need a coolant filter that only filters.
Only Big Rigs and certain other diesels need SCA additives (ie: 7.3).
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,607
Likes: 151
From: SE Georgia
something about they cause wear/tear on the water pump
and
the stupid oil cooler. there is some discussion on other forums that the SCA helps cause debris build-up in the oil cooler - clogging it
but mainly IMO it's the extra wear factor for the internals
and
the stupid oil cooler. there is some discussion on other forums that the SCA helps cause debris build-up in the oil cooler - clogging it
but mainly IMO it's the extra wear factor for the internals
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Water
I still have a new oil cooler in the box, ready to install (with an EGR delete, and some ARP studs). I also have a new thermostat, and a couple jugs of coolant. Been slacking to get all that done.
You think a standard filter would be sufficient to get out the additive until then? (is it particulate, or will it be too small to filter out?)
You think a standard filter would be sufficient to get out the additive until then? (is it particulate, or will it be too small to filter out?)
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,607
Likes: 151
From: SE Georgia
how long until you change the oil cooler?
short duration it's probably fine. Months...I'd do the flush
I'd do the flush anyways and make sure to use the VC9 and DI water. Kill the old cooler and make sure all the crap is out to ensure the new cooler stays unclogged.
btw, my WIX coolant filter was only $7. it can't hurt to throw a non-SCA filter on there until you get around to flushing and replacing coolers
short duration it's probably fine. Months...I'd do the flush
I'd do the flush anyways and make sure to use the VC9 and DI water. Kill the old cooler and make sure all the crap is out to ensure the new cooler stays unclogged.
btw, my WIX coolant filter was only $7. it can't hurt to throw a non-SCA filter on there until you get around to flushing and replacing coolers
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Water
At this rate, probably months. My father has a shop and we're gonna do the whole cab removal there to get at the motor easier to do the laundry list of parts. He's working on his house though, and has been "busy every weekend needing my help" lol... I'm sure once the house is done, then we'll do the motor.
So, thank you for thie info. That filter is way overdue for a change anyways. I'll change it out for a WIX, do the thermostat (it's leaking), and do the flush. My coolant is mostly water at this point anyways. (I know, I know...)
Frig, it's always something.
So, thank you for thie info. That filter is way overdue for a change anyways. I'll change it out for a WIX, do the thermostat (it's leaking), and do the flush. My coolant is mostly water at this point anyways. (I know, I know...)
Frig, it's always something.