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Just about to pull the trigger on 4.88's. It's ******* on the highway and the turbo has been getting hotter on hills. Time to drop more cash to save my tranny and turbo...
Looks like Bronco Graveyard has awesome pricing. Gonna go with the D60 + 10.5" 4.88 Thick Gear and Master Bearing kit ($869), and a 10.5" Trac Lock Limited Slip Clutch Kit ($322)
Still looking around for best prices. My guy in town quoted $1200, but he said it'd likely be lower - but that he had to quote that much. 5-6 hours per axle he says. Northeast Performance Diesel in NH is also working on a quote for me. For hilarity purposes, the dealership in town is also working on one.
Curious to see how you like the 4.88s as well. There was a similar thread over on powerstroke army and the lowest people were recommending to go was 4.30s
Ya I did the research and there doesn't seem to be any overwhelming pull in one direction or the other. Just a lot of guys defending the gears they got. lol
Either way, the parts are on their way and they're being installed Thursday.
The way I see it, the math means that it's almost exactly like going back to the stock 31" tires. 31" with 4.10 = 37" with 4.88 (well, 4.89 but close enough).
According to this online gear calculator, with a 5R110 (and a NP271, but it's 1:1 in high so it makes no difference), Going from 265/75/R16 (31.65", 661 revs/mile) with 3.73's, to 37" (560 revs/mile) with 4.88's means:
Revs at 65 MPH in overdrive:
Factory: 1827
Modified: 2045
Doing 80, 2249 revs stock jumps to 2517. That's not horrible, especially considering I usually stick to about 75 (2360 if you were curious).
These numbers are a difference of around 9%
The gear ratio is a jump of 30.8% (4.88/3.73=1.308), then the tire is a reduction of 15.3% (560/661=.847, or 84.7%, 15.3% less revs/mile)
2000 RPM (times 1.308 from the gears, times .847 for the taller tires) = 2215 RPM (overall difference of 10.7%)
That's almost exactly like going from 3.73 to 4.10 with factory tires. I had done the math to get new gears that would retain the factory ratios, but I think I can live with the 4.88's.
He's got the truck now, finishing up the rear end. I'll have it all weekend to play with, and if I need to jump down to 4.56, He said he will help me out with the price. The front is the majority of the work anyways.
Just have to put an Apollo 13 style "NO!" note on the transfer case shifter lol. (and double/triple check to make sure the hubs are unlocked).
I know right now it's a DOG on the highway. I think it'll work out ok.
Are they installed already? Also where is the dealer quote I'm just curious lol.
They never sent it to me lol. Probably something like 12 hours at $115 - $1380 plus fluid - probably close to $1500. But it could be waaay more for all I know.
My 4.10s move my truck with 33s just fine so with your extra power you shouldn't have any issues. It also got 15mpg when it had stock size highway tires in it. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
So, it turns out the gears are awesome. I don't go very fast on the highway anymore (if you saw my driving record, you would understand why). They're definitely ok on the highway though, running 2200 at 70.
Go math! lol The numbers I got out of the gearing calculator were exactly spot-on.
The speedometer is still about 10% off, and I have no clue why. I have calibrated and recalibrated with the SCT a couple times - I have the gear ratio correct, and I updated tire revs/mile - still shows the same. I messed with the tire revs again, no change. It's seems like it just keeps showing the same thing (10% low), regardless of what I put in the SCT. I need to figure that one out because I'm doing 70 and it says just over 60, and that pisses me off.
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