WickidPissa Build Thread
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From: Dirty Water
I'll get back to you in a couple hundred thousand miles.
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From: Dirty Water
I still need to address the rear springs. I got the basic kit with the plans to add-on components later (ladder bars, dual shock kit, etc). The factory springs are still there, but i got new front lift springs. The *** sits a bit lower and that's pissing me off... I'm not a fan of the "baja look".
I was gonna go with 350DRW springs, but then I found out Rough Country lift springs are cheaper, and I'll be eliminating the blocks. Sold.
I wish I had gotten the dual shock kit from the start, but thats super easy to install and is wicked cheap. And easily done in the driveway because all the rusty hardware that was there has been replaced with all new shiny junk.
I was gonna go with 350DRW springs, but then I found out Rough Country lift springs are cheaper, and I'll be eliminating the blocks. Sold.
I wish I had gotten the dual shock kit from the start, but thats super easy to install and is wicked cheap. And easily done in the driveway because all the rusty hardware that was there has been replaced with all new shiny junk.
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From: Dirty Water
Right now it's got both lifting blocks - factory and the lift one. I want to replace them both (or just the lift one) with a lift spring. That was the plan all along, the block in the back was just to lower the initial cost of the lift. I can add on parts later. I'm definitely going with traction bars eventually (yours are wicked nice BTW), so I'll get the hardware kit for those and do the brackets at the same time i swap the springs out.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
If I may make a suggestion...
If you have both blocks installed, weld them together. I was wheeling with a guy a few years back with a cummins on 38s. He had 2 blocks stacked, the stock block and then a lift block. Anyways, he wromped on the skinny pedal and the torque rotated the axle housing, knocked the lower blocks out, and broke the drive shaft/u-joint/yoke where it meets at the axle housing. I would call it catastrophic failure.
Here is the truck, but I didn't get any shots of the problem.
If you have both blocks installed, weld them together. I was wheeling with a guy a few years back with a cummins on 38s. He had 2 blocks stacked, the stock block and then a lift block. Anyways, he wromped on the skinny pedal and the torque rotated the axle housing, knocked the lower blocks out, and broke the drive shaft/u-joint/yoke where it meets at the axle housing. I would call it catastrophic failure.
Here is the truck, but I didn't get any shots of the problem.
Still better than a Chevy. This guy had solid axles front and rear 
No lockouts though...
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From: Dirty Water
I'd throw a Cummins in mine in a second. As a Ford guy, I see no problem with that. It's not a Dodge motor. fordcummins.com - Increase Horsepower with Ford Cummins Diesel conversion kits
My next truck will be a garage build: 99-07 body, short cab, short bed, dually. 22" high polish Alcoas, 2WD, slammed. Cummins 12v.
My next truck will be a garage build: 99-07 body, short cab, short bed, dually. 22" high polish Alcoas, 2WD, slammed. Cummins 12v.
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From: Dirty Water
Lots of work is what I was told.
