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From: Dirty Water
Craig,
I need some advice from you. I remembered that you are the king of rattle can paint jobs. What kind of paint did you use on your tailgate and how did it hold up through the winter? How many layers of each? What grits of sand paper? My truck needs some touch ups and I think rattle can is the only way I will doing it for now. Thanks!
I need some advice from you. I remembered that you are the king of rattle can paint jobs. What kind of paint did you use on your tailgate and how did it hold up through the winter? How many layers of each? What grits of sand paper? My truck needs some touch ups and I think rattle can is the only way I will doing it for now. Thanks!
I did the grill and bumper, and they held up pretty well considering the amount of highway miles I do, plus some off road, plus a few long highway drives. There's normal chip marks.
I do a light coat, followed by a couple medium coats when the prior one is just tacky but not runny (i use a separate piece to touch to test, or an inconspicuous spot that won't be seen). Then clear-coat, and a ****load of it. I skimped on the clear, admittedly, because i ran out and was lazy. That's sort of the key to the durability. The key to the shine is the wetsanding. I start with like 400, and go up from there all the way to 3000 and polish. It is super labor intensive, but it comes out like a sheet of glass. This is truly what sets apart a rattle can job from the rest... Shining up a good clear hides any surface imperfections or orange peel from the paint.
Good luck, take pics!!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I use duplicolor, plus etching primer. Duplicolor comes in OEM-matched colors, which is why I use it.
I did the grill and bumper, and they held up pretty well considering the amount of highway miles I do, plus some off road, plus a few long highway drives. There's normal chip marks.
I do a light coat, followed by a couple medium coats when the prior one is just tacky but not runny (i use a separate piece to touch to test, or an inconspicuous spot that won't be seen). Then clear-coat, and a ****load of it. I skimped on the clear, admittedly, because i ran out and was lazy. That's sort of the key to the durability. The key to the shine is the wetsanding. I start with like 400, and go up from there all the way to 3000 and polish. It is super labor intensive, but it comes out like a sheet of glass. This is truly what sets apart a rattle can job from the rest... Shining up a good clear hides any surface imperfections or orange peel from the paint.
Good luck, take pics!!
I did the grill and bumper, and they held up pretty well considering the amount of highway miles I do, plus some off road, plus a few long highway drives. There's normal chip marks.
I do a light coat, followed by a couple medium coats when the prior one is just tacky but not runny (i use a separate piece to touch to test, or an inconspicuous spot that won't be seen). Then clear-coat, and a ****load of it. I skimped on the clear, admittedly, because i ran out and was lazy. That's sort of the key to the durability. The key to the shine is the wetsanding. I start with like 400, and go up from there all the way to 3000 and polish. It is super labor intensive, but it comes out like a sheet of glass. This is truly what sets apart a rattle can job from the rest... Shining up a good clear hides any surface imperfections or orange peel from the paint.
Good luck, take pics!!
Any sanding after primer?
I assume no sanding between color coats.
This is one of the big areas where the clear is de-laminating. I was going to try re-painting that small section of the hood over to the crease from the grille. Sand it down smooth and just hit that section. Do you feel the rattle can will be sufficient?
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From: Dirty Water
for that i would just sand down the clear and blend in more along that bend in the sheet metal - spray down and away from the center, like towards the ground from the hood.
Then just polish the snot out of the clear... Your paint is fine, it's the clear that's toast. careful sanding and a good clear can fix this, no painting needed. Of course, you could blend with duplicolor too. metallic is easier to blend, especially with a bend in the metal right there. if you blend, don't forget to hit the adjacent panels too - don't just stop at a seam.
Then just polish the snot out of the clear... Your paint is fine, it's the clear that's toast. careful sanding and a good clear can fix this, no painting needed. Of course, you could blend with duplicolor too. metallic is easier to blend, especially with a bend in the metal right there. if you blend, don't forget to hit the adjacent panels too - don't just stop at a seam.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
for that i would just sand down the clear and blend in more along that bend in the sheet metal - spray down and away from the center, like towards the ground from the hood.
Then just polish the snot out of the clear... Your paint is fine, it's the clear that's toast. careful sanding and a good clear can fix this, no painting needed. Of course, you could blend with duplicolor too. metallic is easier to blend, especially with a bend in the metal right there. if you blend, don't forget to hit the adjacent panels too - don't just stop at a seam.
Then just polish the snot out of the clear... Your paint is fine, it's the clear that's toast. careful sanding and a good clear can fix this, no painting needed. Of course, you could blend with duplicolor too. metallic is easier to blend, especially with a bend in the metal right there. if you blend, don't forget to hit the adjacent panels too - don't just stop at a seam.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
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From: Dirty Water
Not a whole lot actually. The guy that did my gears last year ****ed it all up and i had to buy new ones, plus bearings and possibly a carrier. it's in the shop now being looked at. The only upside is, the guy never charged me. so, essentially it's a wash.