Ah... I see what you're asking. The software written and beta-tested by the PID 3D team just takes the logs as they are, and converts the headers to the appropriate acronyms. The graphing format is clearly visible and easy to follow without the need for a legend. There are multiple scales, making it unnecessary use multipliers on the PIDs to fit the single scale on the left.

Basically, all we need is the data from Infinity, AE, TP, or whatever people have out there, and the software "absorbs" the data and gives it an eye-friendly format.

I'll send a PM with a way to send the data.

 

tjmike - The EBP is a bit too bouncy and the MAP is anemic. I suspect an exhaust or boost leak.

Is soot anywhere under the hood? Are you familiar with the boost leak detector?

 

I recently had the intercooler pipes off (under valve conver wiring harness) and they were sooty/oily near the connections.









I also recently replaced the intake tubes - the old ones were leaking pretty bad. It turns out they were really loose - that seemed to solve an oil in the valley problem.

Now, after a few months, there's no visible leaks (oil/soot) in the intercooler tubes or oil in the valley


I've see threads on it. I'll get to work it and post up if I have any questions.

Should I be able to do it with a schrader valve and bicycle pump?

 

Bicycle pump? Ambitious, aren't we. Maybe if you're The Flash.

Soot does not come from the intake, it comes from the exhaust - swirling around under the hood and sticking to anything oily. I think you have an up pipe leak to find, but look everywhere - and feel for hot gasses escaping from the manifolds.

 

Ha, I'll take that as a "no way".

So we energize the system with air and it's constantly and quickly leaking down and we're just determining if any of the leaking is from the turbo related plumbing?


I will hunt around for an up pipe leak as well as check the manifold. Is there a similar leak test for the exhaust side - air pressure in the tail pipe?

 

Yup to part 1, and I never tried part 2 - exhaust leaks were pretty easy to spot when I had them. Others have tried to puff up the exhaust side, I remember reading about it here.

 

No luck yet finding an exhaust leak. There's no soot on the firewall or on the up pipes that I can see. I'll continue to hunt.

I think I see what you mean about a bouncy EBP, but I'm not sure about anemic MAP. Is it just that it's not getting high enough?

does the EBP control the MAP (Turbo boost)? For example if the computer is looking at the peaks of the EBP could it be reducing boost?


One more data point. Over the winter I had a couple of times were the EBP read 50 (or something pretty high) at startup. After a while it would appear to be normal. I attributed that to something freezing up.

Is it probable the junk in the EBP pipe may cause the jumpy readings?

Here's a zoomed in chart of just EBP,MAP and RPM:

 

My screen makes the numbers on the graph too small to read, but I remember never seeing the MAP go over 28. You have a BARO that says you are at sea level. You subtract BARO from MAP to get boost - that leaves you with a max boost of 13-14. Even if you lived in Denver with a BARO of 12, that MAP means a max boost of 16. 13-16 PSI boost numbers are anemic. You'll likely need to build a boost leak detector to find out what's going on.

The EBP sensor max is about 53 PSI. Even if you started up with the EBPV fully closed, it wouldn't exceed a reading of 30. It's very possible the sensor itself could cause the bouncy EBP reading, but the EBP and MAP each have their own sensors - and they are both in agreement that you have an air leak in your system somewhere.

Back to the 50 PSI EBP sensor at startup... it may be due for a cleaning. You can damage the HPOP drive bolt cover plate when doing this, so make sure you've searched for the instructions or watched a video first.

 

I think you can click on it to get it to be larger.

That sounds about right. I don't think I've ever seen it above 29.5.

What am I looking for to declare success?

Made one this morning. Found some minor leaks on the passenger side intercooler boots by the turbo.

There's some air coming out of the CCV vent. I have a baggie over the hose secured with rubber bands. It's enough air to create a bubble in the baggie while leaking through a pinhole in it.

Why not put the leak detector in right at the air cleaner (so it pressurizes through the CCV too)?

 

Fixing the leaks that I did find didn't help build more boost. I tried removing the red tube to the waste gate actuator and was able to get an additional 5 PSI. I don't know if that helps narrow things down or not. The EBP is still bouncy.

 

I cleaned up the EBP sensor and the tube as much as I could (could not remove tube - will soak it for a week or so and try again). I was hoping that might fix up the bouncy EBP readings, but no such luck.

Here's another run. I combined some WOT runs together. The first ones are with the red tube off and the last one with it on:

 

Ah... bigger numbers on the graphs. Thank you. I have an i7 computer with a 17" screen in my backpack and a 24" monitor to connect to, but I just use my 10" portable device lately... and I'm sure many others use smaller.

Maybe we'd better back off a bit here and allow others to share. Every time I've seen the bouncy EBP, it's been a leak - but I'm wondering if we have something else going on. I can tell you that I searched for leaks everywhere on Stinky, and it wasn't until I saw soap bubbles dancing on the intake plenum that I said "Yahoo" and "Aw crap" in the same breath. In your case, I'm seeing a lot of noise in the signal even at low boost. I'd hate to send you to Riffraff Diesel for an EBP sensor and have it not clear up, but I'm really wondering now.

Below is a WOT test from another member. Judging by the numbers, I'd say he has an upgraded turbo and he has a tune, but it shows the graphing I see on a good air system.



32-33 PSI - now you're in the 17-18 PSI neighborhood, which is what a 100% healthy truck makes with no modifications. The "red line mod" (unplugging and capping the red line to the wastegate control) usually yields about 20-22 PSI boost on a stock truck.

You really want to bypass the CCV tube when testing for boost leaks.

 

Tugly, if you get a chance can you take a look at my Infinity Data Chart? I have an 01 F250 7.3 with 120K that I just got in January. I have the 6637 intake mod, and a 4" Diamond Eye flo-thru. I am looking to tow my 8K lb camper for the first time on a trip (about 5 hours), and am just looking to see if my boost is sufficient. Based on what I have read (in this entire thread), I may have a slight leak. This is stock, before I loaded any tunes in with the Infinity PL. I know I have a slight leak (just a slight soot spot) from my drivers side up-pipe. Would really like to be able to tear it down afterwards if possible.

Edit: I misnamed the data MAP, that should be EBP, (MAP topped out at 29) but Im sure you will realize it anyway. Part of my tear down for the up-pipes would include a full intake side pressure test and replacing all the turbo boots (hopefully no plenum leak). Just wondering if I can get away with the trip beforehand.

Thanks,

AngryMetFan (Powerstroke Noob)

 

Air leaks are not small. Say you have a leak that would cause a drip with plumbing. Put that same leak with the far-less density of pressurized air, and you get a hiss. I had a tiny intake leak and it had my boost needle flopping around like John Kerry on the subject of Vietnam. At cruise, you would barely notice even a substantial leak - but for the noise. Apply throttle and something in the truck is going to say to you "Hey! Oh my freaking gawd! We got a leak over here!" - not "Oh... by the way... I think I heard a hiss or a tick or something. Please pass the diesel to me."

 

I have a problem similar to yours - boost peaks at about 14/15 and noisy EBP. I have been unable to find my leak so far. Although while looking I found some intake leaks that didn't net met any real gains once fixed.

On thing you can do is to make sure all your intake boot clamps are snugged up. When I went to replace my plenum boots, I was shocked to find that that stock boot clamps were really loose. So loose that I didn't need the wrench, I just turned the extension by hand.

On the towing front, I have a ~8,000 lb trailer and have been towing with boost maxing in the 14/15 psi range. I don't have any huge hills to pull and when I do encounter a hill I take OD off in order to run the hill at a higher rpm. So far, this seems to be working fine for me.