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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 05:38 AM
  #1336  
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I've replace diff bearings many times without replacing gears, theres no problem unless the gears are damaged.........
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #1337  
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Wow,,, great info guys. Strokin,,, u wanna sell your bars?

Also, tightening the yoke helped huh? I did the pinion seal a couple hundred k mi ago, shouldn't the nut b at 400ftlb???? Yeah, I know I didn't get it that tight. Lol. Maybe 2-250.

Gigger, was it the same style diffs we have that you have done? I'm bout to read up n the service manual on it. I'd like to tackle it myself,,,, caution to the wind!!!! Lol, u all know me by now,,,, right. Lol
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 01:17 PM
  #1338  
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From: Spanaway
Too loose on the pinion nut is hard to the bearing
pinion bearing set because it would leave to too
loose on the pre-load.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 06:46 PM
  #1339  
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Originally Posted by run6.0run
Wow,,, great info guys. Strokin,,, u wanna sell your bars?

Also, tightening the yoke helped huh? I did the pinion seal a couple hundred k mi ago, shouldn't the nut b at 400ftlb???? Yeah, I know I didn't get it that tight. Lol. Maybe 2-250.

Gigger, was it the same style diffs we have that you have done? I'm bout to read up n the service manual on it. I'd like to tackle it myself,,,, caution to the wind!!!! Lol, u all know me by now,,,, right. Lol
Yea Tightening that yoke bought me some time for sure I'm not sure on the torque. I just kinda pounded on it with the Nitrocat until the side to side wobble was gone. lol I know not the correct procedure but it worked. I might be willing to get rid of the bars. I don't have the weld on axle brackets. It was too much work to get them off the truck before trading it in. I imagine you can order just those separate. It would prob be a good idea to buy the rear bushings that bolt down to that bracket I think one of mine was a little boogered up. Figure out what that stuff costs and make me an offer. I have the complete front front brackets and all the bolts. Your wanna snag a couple cases of red bull for drilling all the holes in the frame, it sucked I think there is 16 holes to drill. It does help with the axle wrap when pulling heavy that's for sure.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #1340  
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Well, back to it. I'm fixing it today. Got the tranny out n putting the different clutch Mansel at south bend gave me. I'm sending the videos to him. But if you guys see anything messed up,,,, I'm all ears
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #1341  
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Here's another
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #1342  
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #1343  
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Rear main isn't leaking.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 12:17 PM
  #1344  
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Oh, btw,,, the $175 harbor freight tranny jack got mutilated with the tranny n trans case together. Not sure how I'm gonna get the tranny back up there. I will video it n a sec
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 12:25 PM
  #1345  
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I think this is a new setup south bend is trying. I think it's a prototype. That's cool. I like the full face clutch dish. It's more like stock
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #1346  
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Are the fingers bent enough???
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #1347  
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I like that new clutch Anthony, I think the full plate is better.........looking good,......there seemed to be a lot of rust when you took the other clutch out huh......
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 02:42 PM
  #1348  
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I have found that sometimes the fingers look funny on the diaphragm
type clutch. My concern is the dry input shaft. You should recheck the book
and see if a tiny bit of lube needs to be put on it so the clutch disk will
move without sticking and putting force into the transmission while the
clutch is disengaged.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #1349  
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it is not recommended lubing (oil etc) because dust particles from disc will be attracted to the shaft and the build up becomes pasty and interfers with disc sliding on shaft sugest you try new disc on shaft before install to be sure no binding occurs somtimes new disc has been sprayed with clear laquer type substance to prevent rust before install or even a type of oil on disc spraying brake cleen usually cleans this up good luck on re install
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 04:02 PM
  #1350  
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I was just going to say that I did some reading into the workshop manual
and there was no requirement to any lube on the input shaft.
That being said I would clean the shaft of all the crud/rust and make sure
that the disk moves on the splines before the installation just to make sure that
there is not going to be a problem there. So Dry and clean is the way to go.

Sean
 
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