Well, in this. And, it will be PULL down hard as I have it down, but not out.

As for the 435, it will be up for sale when the C6 goes into Rusty since I'm using his pedals and steering column in Dad's, so he has to be an auto.

 

If you mean this literally Gary, it will be pretty difficult. Even working from above, you need to be able to use a good bit of body weight.

Can you lift/shuffle the trans around to get access from above, through the cab floor?

 

I doubt I can get it where I can get to it from above. I'll just have to hang on it. Or, make a piece that just fits that I can put a lever on and get a strap wrench on. We'll see soon. Am at tag agency transferring the truck to me.

 

Ok, Ken was right - it needs to be done from above as you need to get your fingers in to push down on the cap. And, also as he said, you want the tranny in neutral so you can get the shift lever back in properly, and mine was in 1st.

So, I lifted the tranny up w/the jack, put a ladder beside the truck, and climbed in. With a bit of protection for my fingers, and after several tries, I was able to push the NP435 shift lever cap down and make the ~1/8th CCW turn to unlock it. Out came the lever and I was able to lower the tranny/t-case combo and, with some maneuvering, able to get it out from under the truck. Now I see what the difference is between the $129 jack and the $240 jack - a lot more range. Oh well, for the few times I'll use it this one will work fine.

And, while I was in the cab I set the park brake. Then, I put the rear u-joint u-bolts in the yoke and put the tranny jack's handle through. Pop, pop, pop, pop........ Bummer! So I pulled the yoke, and oddly enough the splines don't look bad at first blush. But, there is a lot of movement of the pinion with the spline off. A LOT. So, I guess the diff has to come out to see what the problem is. At least even with my poor memory I remember how to do this as it has only been a couple of months.

I'm guessing the PO knew this 'cause there were several hints that I overlooked. First, he'd just had a new pinion seal installed. Second, there was a leak at the pinion, but it didn't seem to be coming past the seal itself. Third, the front drive shaft was/is in the tool box, and I never did understand his reason why.

Anyway, you'll know where to find me for a while.

 

Dang it Gary! I was talking to james about this last night. I explained what the diff was doing(was still thinking the pinion was stripped and the yoke was spinning around it) and he said that isnt a very common occurrence. He suggested that maybe the R&P was broken . He also said this is bad when it happens to a 9" b/c it could very easily ruin the case where the pinion bearings seat. We wont know anything until the diff gets the tear down and inspection. I was thinking that maybe Dad's case was shot where the 3rd pinion bearing is and thats why we used the donor case. I hope both arent shot. I think Scotty needs to look at both cases to get the word right from the gear guru's mouth and what is what with the cases. If so I bet I can scratch a good one up for a song. It might take me a day or two to locate the right one for the right price.

However, this is all hypothetical until we see what we are up against.

 

Already found one if we need it for $40-$50.

 

Bruno - Is that for just the case? I'm bringing the bin of spare parts from Dad's diff build, just in case there's something good in there.

All - As said before, I got the tranny/t-case combo out from under Rusty today. Here's proof:


And, I got the diff out as well. Here's a pic showing how, with a jack stand to pry it out as the lift comes down, and the stand is sitting on a 1/4" piece of ply to ensure it doesn't punch through the catch pan. And, by the way, that pan got full even though I'd pulled the yoke off the pinion and gotten quite a bit of lube, and then pulled the axles and gotten more lube. You can see the bowls used to catch the drips out of the axles to the right and left.


And, the diff is bad. I'm guessing that the front bearing is gone, and that lets the pinion get by the ring gear. But, the pinion and ring gear don't look broken although there is a very small chip off one tooth on the ring gear. However, I really can't tell much with it all together so am taking it to Bruno's house tomorrow so he can get it to his friend, James, who rebuilt Dad's diff. I want him/them to inspect it and tell me what needs to be done.

And, while he's looking at it, and maybe fixing it, I'll be getting the measurements off of Rusty's flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, etc so I can draw it up to see what'll be needed for the ZF5 install in Dad's truck. Those measurements, plus ones taken from the ZF5 and associated flywheel et al will be the keys to making things fit on that swap.

Then I'll clean the tranny & t-case (Not that the tranny needs it. ) and re-install them, one at a time as the book says. That all-at-once way was too much and precarious, so I don't recommend that. Anyway, I should be ready for the diff when it gets rebuilt, or when I find a replacement if it can't be rebuilt. Slip it in and Rusty will be live again!

 

Yes Gary that was just for the "hogs head". If you can remember the case on the 9" has that 3rd pinion bearing out on the end of the pinion shaft gives the 9 " more stability than other rear ends in the same class. So it would have to have given way to let the end of the pinion shaft walk off the ring gear. If it did that then the case is shot. However, going through my mental archives as I recall the end of the pinion on Dad's diff was what was questionable and not the case. If that is correct then we may be on the hunt for a good used R&P.


Once again this is all hypothetical until Rusty's rear end is in pieces.

P.S. I saw a used R&P on Clist for $100. I think I can do better than that at one of my honey holes. I am a little leary of the one on C list b/c I dont know if a novice would know what a "good" used R&P looks like, but , you never know.

 

Gary,
What diff do you have in the front?
And why was THAT driveshaft disconnected.
That truck could have been front wheel drive, if you had known, AND there was nothing wrong with the front 3rd...

Stout motor and 4wd burnouts on dry pavement = ???

 

I have a D44 in front and the tag says 3.50, as does the door cert for the rear. But, I confess I haven't counted teeth nor turns so don't know for sure the ratio for either end. Will find out - soon.

Yes, there is a possibility that he dumped the clutch in 4wd on pavement. After all, he does ride one of those things that takes 50 weight oil to keep it inside, so there is no telling what he might do.

I've played with the front diff and it seems ok, but who knows until I get things back together. Anyway, this gives me time to check and measure the clutch et al

 

I was reminded, rudely I might I add, of my recent analysis of the various ways to put a drain plug in a 9" rear axle. Which reminded me (therefore, it isn't my fault) that I have the diff out of Rusty and had vowed to always put a drain plug in something I have apart.

So, I'm looking for your collective wisdom: Do I put a drain plug in Rusty? Is it worth it on something I'm going to sell? And, if I do put a plug in do I just put a simple engine-style drain plug in? With or without a piece of pipe around it?

My gut says "no drain plug" as I'd like to get him on the road and do not want to go to the hassle of doing it, and especially doing it right - whatever that is.

 

Gary,

There are millions of trucks running around without drain plugs.

You (or your wife) don't intend to keep Rusty.
I can see how these little details mean something to you, but I doubt many other owners would take that much pride in a 1981 F150

 

I vote that you [Gary] save you skills and ideas for other endeavors... skip the drain on this one!

 

I'd let it go, Gary - we've still got to get that Dodge up 'n' rolling by summer!

 

3 out of 3. That's pretty strong. Make it 4 of 4 with my vote.

But, the Dodge won't be up and running this summer as I'm hoping to do the restification of Dad's truck after I get Rusty going. But, before really starting that work I need to do some other work, like building the rotisserie to put the cab or bed on. I have the metal, and even have it rough-cut, so need to square things up, trim, etc. And then weld it up, powder coat it, and put it together.

Then, once I've done Dad's I'll be ready to do the Bee.