Rusty
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
That's a pretty big improvement in MPG, for such a simple swap. I know what I would go with......
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Rusty's motor which ever it may be when sold could very well come back around to you before too long. If I remember correct you are going to put Dad's motor in Rusty and vice versa. If Dad's motor has never been overhauled then it should have a stock bore. If it has then I am sure it would have to have .030 taken out of the cylinders to get it back to right. If it has already been bored then it probably isnt more than .030 over now. What I am saying is that you could possibly even use the .060 pistons in another build.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Norman, Ar
I am a fan of the E-brocks. Good Luck and keep the cards and letters going. Thanks again for all the Input. travis
Thread Starter
|
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Rusty's motor which ever it may be when sold could very well come back around to you before too long. If I remember correct you are going to put Dad's motor in Rusty and vice versa. If Dad's motor has never been overhauled then it should have a stock bore. If it has then I am sure it would have to have .030 taken out of the cylinders to get it back to right. If it has already been bored then it probably isnt more than .030 over now. What I am saying is that you could possibly even use the .060 pistons in another build.
That is a good idea you are suggesting. A way to have my cake and eat it as well. I like that. But, it might also involve the small-block C6 that I have in the attic. And, maybe even parts of the 351W that's up there as well. Good thinking!
Travis - Thanks for the note. The Carterbrock carbs are one of my favorites as they can be made to do just about anything. However, and unfortunately, both the expertise as well as the parts to make that happen are hard to come by.
Thread Starter
|
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
#5 Plug
Just pulled the #5 plug (easiest to reach) to see what it looked like after the trip. Obviously need to pull the others to see what each cylinder looks like, but this is a good start. And, for the record these aren't the Champion extended tip plugs, but the standard Autolite ones.
I'm going to change oil (Conoco Super All Season Synthetic Blend 10W30) and filter (Motorcraft FL1-A) today so's I can see how much oil he's burning. Looks like he used 1/4 pint yesterday in 250 miles. IOW, the level went from about the 3/4 mark between Safe and Full to the 1/4 mark.
Actually, that begs a question: What is the range, in pints, between Safe and Full?
I'm going to change oil (Conoco Super All Season Synthetic Blend 10W30) and filter (Motorcraft FL1-A) today so's I can see how much oil he's burning. Looks like he used 1/4 pint yesterday in 250 miles. IOW, the level went from about the 3/4 mark between Safe and Full to the 1/4 mark.
Actually, that begs a question: What is the range, in pints, between Safe and Full?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Who measures oil in pints? 
To my knowledge, quarts have been used since the invention of the internal-combustion engine but I guess you must predate that era.
I believe the area covered by the hash marks (the "SAFE" area on the dipstick) represents one quart. I won't get into U.S. vs. Imperial measurements.....
To my knowledge, quarts have been used since the invention of the internal-combustion engine but I guess you must predate that era.
I believe the area covered by the hash marks (the "SAFE" area on the dipstick) represents one quart. I won't get into U.S. vs. Imperial measurements.....
Thread Starter
|
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Who measures oil in pints?
To my knowledge, quarts have been used since the invention of the internal-combustion engine but I guess you must predate that era.
I believe the area covered by the hash marks (the "SAFE" area on the dipstick) represents one quart. I won't get into U.S. vs. Imperial measurements.....
To my knowledge, quarts have been used since the invention of the internal-combustion engine but I guess you must predate that era.
I believe the area covered by the hash marks (the "SAFE" area on the dipstick) represents one quart. I won't get into U.S. vs. Imperial measurements.....
But, it is who-knows-how-used oil of unknown quality and viscosity. So, the hope is that it'll be much better with new oil.And, that suggests pulling the other plugs to see if I can find the culprit. Still questions to be answered........
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I would have thought that a leak of a pint in 250 miles would make a big mess. I do have a drip from the bell housing area after a drive, so the rear main is probably leaking a bit. But, surely it can't account for that much lube. Anyway, I've now changed the oil so we'll see how it goes with new 10W30.
And, while under/over things I snapped the attached pictures. I also snapped something else - the plastic line to the aftermarket oil pressure gauge. Unfortunately I don't have the right size of ferrule, so I'm got a plug in it now. And, I'll use this opportunity to put an oil pressure sending unit on there so the factory gauge works. Were all the sending units on the back of the block? I ask because the wire is up front in the Windsor location.
Looks like Rusty has the truck block, although the D7TE-A23 (at least that's what it looks like to me) doesn't quite fit with what I've read. And, I can't figure out the foundry mark. Instead of what I see on The M-Block site it just looks like a partial 5 in a circle. Am I looking in the right spot?
And, while under/over things I snapped the attached pictures. I also snapped something else - the plastic line to the aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
Unfortunately I don't have the right size of ferrule, so I'm got a plug in it now. And, I'll use this opportunity to put an oil pressure sending unit on there so the factory gauge works. Were all the sending units on the back of the block? I ask because the wire is up front in the Windsor location.Looks like Rusty has the truck block, although the D7TE-A23 (at least that's what it looks like to me) doesn't quite fit with what I've read. And, I can't figure out the foundry mark. Instead of what I see on The M-Block site it just looks like a partial 5 in a circle. Am I looking in the right spot?
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Rusty
Just pulled the #5 plug (easiest to reach) to see what it looked like after the trip. Obviously need to pull the others to see what each cylinder looks like, but this is a good start. And, for the record these aren't the Champion extended tip plugs, but the standard Autolite ones.
I'm going to change oil (Conoco Super All Season Synthetic Blend 10W30) and filter (Motorcraft FL1-A) today so's I can see how much oil he's burning. Looks like he used 1/4 pint yesterday in 250 miles. IOW, the level went from about the 3/4 mark between Safe and Full to the 1/4 mark.
Actually, that begs a question: What is the range, in pints, between Safe and Full?
I'm going to change oil (Conoco Super All Season Synthetic Blend 10W30) and filter (Motorcraft FL1-A) today so's I can see how much oil he's burning. Looks like he used 1/4 pint yesterday in 250 miles. IOW, the level went from about the 3/4 mark between Safe and Full to the 1/4 mark.
Actually, that begs a question: What is the range, in pints, between Safe and Full?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Your casting identification code is correct, you've just mistaken the "B" for a "3". Your actual ID is D7TE-A2B.
The foundry code is right smack dab next to the oil sending unit. The oil sending unit is on the back of the motor, right above the transmission bell housing.
Here's a picture of mine. You can see the MCC for Michigan Casting Center, which was where my block was cast. You can also see the date of casting, 8B28, which decodes to February 28, 1978. The hole you see on the right is where the oil pressure sending unit goes, I just had mine out.
And with the sending unit still on the motor, you can see that it's quite hard to see, so if you have a mirror, you may want to use it. You may need to clean the area up as well.
The foundry code is right smack dab next to the oil sending unit. The oil sending unit is on the back of the motor, right above the transmission bell housing.
Here's a picture of mine. You can see the MCC for Michigan Casting Center, which was where my block was cast. You can also see the date of casting, 8B28, which decodes to February 28, 1978. The hole you see on the right is where the oil pressure sending unit goes, I just had mine out.
And with the sending unit still on the motor, you can see that it's quite hard to see, so if you have a mirror, you may want to use it. You may need to clean the area up as well.
Thread Starter
|
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Your casting identification code is correct, you've just mistaken the "B" for a "3". Your actual ID is D7TE-A2B.
The foundry code is right smack dab next to the oil sending unit. The oil sending unit is on the back of the motor, right above the transmission bell housing.
Here's a picture of mine. You can see the MCC for Michigan Casting Center, which was where my block was cast. You can also see the date of casting, 8B28, which decodes to February 28, 1978. The hole you see on the right is where the oil pressure sending unit goes, I just had mine out.
And with the sending unit still on the motor, you can see that it's quite hard to see, so if you have a mirror, you may want to use it. You may need to clean the area up as well.
The foundry code is right smack dab next to the oil sending unit. The oil sending unit is on the back of the motor, right above the transmission bell housing.
Here's a picture of mine. You can see the MCC for Michigan Casting Center, which was where my block was cast. You can also see the date of casting, 8B28, which decodes to February 28, 1978. The hole you see on the right is where the oil pressure sending unit goes, I just had mine out.
And with the sending unit still on the motor, you can see that it's quite hard to see, so if you have a mirror, you may want to use it. You may need to clean the area up as well.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Here's a picture of my block from the back. I think the landing you are talking about is on the right side of the block. If you look a little to the left, you can see the recessed area where the Foundry stuff is. There will probably be loads of grease to clean out, which is probably why you didn't see it.
