Yep, LOADS of grease. But, that pic explains it all, and mine is like yours. So, I hope to look at it tomorrow.

I say "hope" 'cause the neighbor is coming over tomorrow with his Jeep that we put a lift kit on a few years ago. He says he has a vibration and I'm sure it is the double u-joint arrangement in the driveshaft as we found it was in poor shape a year ago. So, we'll see how long it takes to fix that, although he has to go to work around 2:30 so I should still have time to fix the oil pressure tube and add the pressure sender - and look at the casting marks at the same time.

(I'm going to have to get me a set of knee pads as getting to the back of these engines is sorta painful. That header bar/radiator support isn't very comfy on 65-year old knees, and I seem to be up there a lot. Bruno's Bronco and the carb work, the oil sender and casting marks for Rusty, checking the back spark plugs, etc.)

 

Yea, getting around the engine is pretty easy when you have it completely out.

 

Yep. It isn't too bad when you have a lift 'cause you can get to several things from the bottom - especially since you can stand and do it. But hopefully I'll find out that Rusty isn't burning too much oil and I can pull engines and swap them.

Now, if I could just find a way to swap Rusty's engine into Dad's truck and keep Dad's engine. That way I could build it up the way I want it, and at my leisure. That would take a lot of the concern out of making the decision.

 

1. Remove all of the Ranger XLT stuff from Rusty. Send it to me for safe keeping.
2. Put on some 82-86 XLT trim pieces
3. Remove Rusty's 351M perches and send them to me.
4. Install your extra set of 302/251W perches.
5. Find a 302/351W and put it in Rusty.
6. Call it a day.

 

See below in red.

 

I don't think Gary would agree to it & yes, I know you're joking.

 

Gary, I got myself a 2-step ladder thing for climbing up & over the engine.

I just thought of something I didn't see in your shop... a pressure washer! Do you have one of those? For cleaning the grime off the back.

BTW yes, all M-blocks (and I believe Clevelands, too) have the oil pressure sender at the rear.

About Shaun's needs, I had come across a 1980 Bronco with an M-block engine that somebody had removed. The passenger side had been hit pretty hard and the engine perch on that side was bent and unsable, but the other side was OK and the engine was even out of it!

But, man, that would suck to get that thing out, especially in a JY... two bolts (buried in an inch of grease & goop) and I don't know how many rivets holding it to the cross member.

I had an idea of maybe using a portable sawzall to cut the thing out of there, that might have worked but I doubt my batteries would have lasted + I worry that the JY would charge me extra for ruining a cross member and frame (they've fone that kind of thing to me before, they are no longer my favorite yard but they're close so I keep going there). And, he would still need the one for the other side.....

 

I use a 40 year old wooden bar stool to get up under the hood, having learned the hard way that the bumper tends to be somewhat slippery. Trust me, that's no fun.

And, I don't have a pressure washer, but the neighbor that's bringing the Jeep over tomorrow does and, for some unknown reason, is happy to loan it to me. The best of both worlds.

Yeah, getting the driver's side perch out is not fun - even at a reasonably well-equipped shop like mine. I had half of the tools behind the shop when I finally figured out what would work. But, then, I was saving the frame since I may want to use it so needed to get the rivets (6, by the way) out w/o grinding into the frame.

 

Technically, I have a set of 400 perches lined up, I just have to free up a 460 so it can be pulled from the engine bay. Then, I have to hope that they didn't damage the perches when they shoe-horned the 460 in. Once that is done, I have to have the junkyard cut the frame around the brackets with a torch, or cut the rivets with a grinder. And then finally, I have to pay them $50 for the perches and the work.

As you can imagine, I haven't been in too much of a hurry.

It's interesting you mention 6 rivets. The Bronco I pulled my 400 from only has two rivets holding the driver's side bracket on, and none holding the passenger side bracket on.

 

Glad you have those lined up.

As for the rivet count, I forgot that was a Windsor I pulled the perches from.

 

Yes, but this Bronco is a 1987, and should have the 302/351W brackets in it. The 400 fit fine in this Bronco, so I sent an email to Ford asking for any info they can provide on the differences between the perches.

If I can get away with 302/351W perches, by all means I am because I don't feel like pulling a motor again unless it's a good 351M/400. 302/351W perches are much easier to come by, and plenty of the trucks in my junkyard are missing their engines.

 

Below is what the back of the block has in the way of casting info, but I don't see the kind of marks I expected. So, what's the deal?

As for what I did to Rusty, I got both the aftermarket oil pressure gauge and the factory gauge working. I put a tee in and installed both a sending unit as well the connector for the under-dash gauge. However, the PO had pushed one of the wiring grommets out of the firewall and ran the tubing through that hole, leaving the grommet dangling. I didn't like that so put the grommet back and drilled another hole in the firewall. A 1/4" grommet fit the tubing perfectly, so I now have new tubing that is better protected and fewer leaks through the firewall.

I also found the white/red wire for the oil pressure sending unit and soldered a new wire to it and ran that back to the newly-installed sending unit. A couple of pieces of heat-shrink tubing, a soldered-on ring-tongue connector, and voila - the gauge works. Still don't understand why the original wire stopped by the coil, but I'm not going to worry about it.

 

Judging by the faint characters for your date code, I think you still have some heavy paint build up that will need to be cleaned up before the MCC or CF logo will reveal itself.

If I remember correctly, Cleveland Foundry blocks have the date code next to the casting ID code (D7TE-A2B), where the MCC blocks have it right next to the Foundry ID code. Your block, since it has the date code near the oil pressure sending unit, is probably an MCC block.

 

Thanks, Shaun. If/when I pull the engine I'll clean the paint off more and check that out. And, from what I read on Bubba's site there's no problem with cracking on MCC-cast blocks if they were cast after '77. So, I do want to check that out.

As for what I did to Rusty today, I installed a new rear u-joint on the rear shaft. I'd noticed that it wasn't perfect when I replaced the front one back when Chris was here, but it was good enough for some testing. Well, that testing has proven Rusty to be pretty solid, and I thought I detected a minor vibration, so got a supply of u-joints and put Rusty on the lift.

The first thing I noticed was that there was a coating on many things toward the rear of the truck, and especially on the passenger's side. And, it started at the rear of the transfer case. The floor board above that point was gooey, making it obvious that the rear seal was leaking on the T-case. So, I pulled the rear shaft and replaced both the rear u-joint and the rear seal. And, I de-gooefied (similar to de-greenified ) the underside. I really think Rusty will now be able to get even better gas mileage due to the weight loss.

Tomorrow I'm replacing the u-joints on the front shaft - especially since one of them is missing a cap. That's one reason that shaft was in the tool box, but I'm wondering what I'll find when I get it back on. Hopefully the front axles and differential are ok.

As I think about it, I sure hope Rusty goes to a good home! I wasn't planning on fixing him up, but he's so much fun to drive and so many little things need to be fixed to be able to drive him that I'm starting to run up a tab on him.

 

Gary, the wire is shorter cause the sending unit for the oil was beside the fuel pump on the W engine and also the 390. Not smarting off just facts from practical experience. Changing 390 to 460 and owing a 351w/HO. Later travis