Yebbut, Rusty came from Ford with a 351M, like it currently has, and gauges so the wire should have been long enough to go to the sending unit. I knew the Windsor's oil pressure sending unit was by the fuel pump since I had one until recently, which is why I asked the question about the 351M. But, apparently someone cut the wire at some point as it wouldn't reach and didn't have the proper connector on it, so I had to extend it as well as put a connector on.

 

Ok, Sorry, I had a senior moment. Not paying attention,etc. The PO probably got carried away with wire cutters. Hooking up manual gauge or whatever. Later.

 

First, this post has been difficult to create given all the issues with FTE tonight. Given my background running some humongous server farms, these problems could be prevented so that frustrates me. But, I need your help so will persevere, although I'm considering a hiatus from FTE until things get sorted out.

Anyway, it looks like I'll have to replace the front driveshaft. The slip joint was very loose so I pulled it off. Yuk!! The grease in/on there was almost plastic as it was thick, gooey, and very hard to get off. Finally I was able to get most of the grease off the shaft as well as the yoke and was surprised and disappointed in what I found. The shaft ahead of the splines is badly worn, apparently from the splines of the yoke wearing on it. I'm thinking the shaft is too long as the yoke was on all the way, allowing the yoke's splines to touch the shaft. The splines on the shaft are worn as are the splines in the yoke. And, when you put the yoke on the shaft w/o all the grease there is a large amount of slop. Huge even. I expected to find a problem in the front driveline, but hadn't anticipated it being the shaft itself.

I've also attached the illustration (Section 46 Page 4) from the Master Parts Catalog that shows the front drive shaft. And, I've attached the page from the MPC that shows the part number of the shaft - if I only knew which of the two it is. Note that on the top line it shows the PN to be E0TZ 4A376-B, then "r/b" which I believe is "replaced by" E0TZ 4A376-A. But, there's a note (#7) that says "Before Ser. GJ0,001". And, the next line has Note 8 that says "from" that point.

So, what is "Ser/ GJ0,001"? Is it the serial # of the vehicle? Looking at Rusty's VIN, which starts "GX". Is that after "GJ"?

And, I see that those two shafts are 30 31/32" and 32 1/32", respectively. My shaft measures 32 1/8" if I measure from the splined-end to the inside of the u-joint bearing cap bore. But, how do you measure a drive shaft? EDIT: Section 48.1 Page 2 of the MPC's Part A shows how to measure, and if I measure that way my shaft is 32 1/32" long. Still need to know which shaft I should have. And, btw, the PN is the same for both of the shafts, even though they are different lengths. Something doesn't compute.

I'll try putting the shaft on tomorrow to see how it fits - remember, it was in the tool box when I bought Rusty so I haven't seen how/if it fits. Maybe that will tell me if it really is too long.

And, once I know which shaft I need I'll start looking to see where I can get one - and that's another learning opportunity as I've not done that, although I am starting to find my way around the MPC. EDIT: Green Sales has 4. Wonder what length they are?

 

James makes them for a living. Thats what his position is at Inland. He is the "driveshaft guy" and a damn good one at that(probably the best in town). They have all the tube,flange yokes,slip stubs you could want.

I bet the reason the driveshafts have the same part number is because of the slip and stub. They will either extend to the longer measurement or compress to the shorter length. However, there has to be a certain amount of free travel to allow for the compression and extension of the suspension.

James has books and has been to school to know what needs what. He can even figure angles and such. The books he has are very intimidating to someone that has no idea what any of that means(like me). He is pretty picky about used parts. He is like Scott is with rear ends when it comes to driveshafts. He has done it so long that everything looks bad to him.

Get a price on one off the shelf from wherever you can find one. Then I will talk to James and see if he can do any better. I know he can build a good shaft. My F-250 has front and rear shafts built by him. They both have bigger tube with thicker walls than what they come with. My Sterling 10.25 and Dana 50 rear ends are probably the weaker link in my set up.

 

Ok, I'll do that. But the problem I gave up on for the night is finding the PN for the yoke. I see the # in the illustration, but I'm not finding it in the part where you get the PN. And, as you can see, both parts need to be replaced.

 

If this is a 4WD front axle (which would be the only front axle with a driveshaft connected to it ), the easiest thing to do is use the tag information to find your axle in the book, then find the associated parts list, then look for your component in it.

Some parts that are common may not be listed in the parts list, but would generally be at the end of the section.

Without the tag, you'll have to search through the cross-reference lists to find your axle (and a reference to the proper parts list).

 

When you show it to James he will probably say something along the lines of "oh yeah, thats a cmp340619".

Just out of curiosity Gary, did you measure the length of the shaft with the truck on the ground? The reason I ask is b/c whenever it is up on a lift the suspension is relaxed and will show more length than what you need. With it empty and sitting level in the driveway it will give you a true measurement.

If you want it rebuilt or whatever bring it by his house or drop it off here. You dont want one of the salesmen up there to get their hooks in you. He is working saturdays now and it is very lax up there on the weekends. I think he is taking tomorrow off because he has been swamped with side work. His driveway looks like a used car lot.

I will say this though, whenever he sees it be prepared to be told even the yokes on the ends are bad. At that point there is no sense and even trying to re use the tube. The tube only costs $10. However, he may say the end yokes are fine and to re run them. You never know. Are the U joints out of it? If the are post a pic of the inside of the loops on the end yokes.

 

Here is a link that gives a little info as well as shows what a new stub looks like with the glidecoat still on it:

Slip Stub Shaft 53-1443 - Product Picture From Yuhuan Yongsheng Machinery Industrial Co., Ltd.

 

First, are you saying that I didn't find the right thing in the MPC? Or, are you just offering a faster way to get there?

Second, if by "tag" you mean the silver piece of tape that doesn't have any writing on it anymore, then I understand. If not, which tag?

I think you are saying that James is off today. I'll text you in a bit to make sure, but I'd like to bring it down if so. And, I haven't measured at all, but I'm all too aware of the changes that makes to driveline lengths as I just had the rear shaft off - again.

 

I am referring to the metal tag that has information stamped into it:

 

Ok, before I forget it, I have a date with Bruno's friend James this afternoon to see what he can do about the shaft and yoke. And, by the way, with the truck on the lift the shaft fits nicely, although I realize that it may well be different when on the ground - which I'll try later.

Now, I found the tag (pic attached) which, with a bit of cleaning, gave me E0TA-EF awa 610062, the Dana #. Then I found the page in the 2nd attached picture that lists that axle - 5th row. And, I can go to Parts List Section 30.3, as shown in the 3rd pic attached, and see the column labeled "B". But, when I scroll through the several pages of parts for that axle I don't find anything about the driveshaft nor its slip-yoke, although there is a reference to the axle's slip yoke. Am I missing it?

As shown, I found the drive shaft itself in Section 46.2 so would have expected the slip-yoke to be there as well, but cannot find it. And, while it may be a moot point if James can resolve the problem, I would like to understand how to use the MPC. Maybe now I have the example to use with Numberdummy. After your help while here, I have been able to find things. But, this one has me stumped.

 

The yokes are the 4841/4851 objects, correct? If so, in the Text manual, scroll down the LH column and look for 40's-stuff. I see lots of good-looking stuff in Section 48 (which would match parts 4841, 4851).

Everything else you mentioned above looks correct (about how to use these books) I'm impressed.

 

Chris - Thanks for the vote of confidence. But, I did miss going to Section 48. Have now and on Page 2 I find a table that, supposedly, would allow me to determine what it is. However, I can only get close as some of my measurements don't show up on the chart.

So, I took it to the wire wheel and found "Spicer" on one side and "15 5 79" on the other. And, below that # is one that ends in 3, although the rest can't be made out. I'm hoping James can make something of it.

 

Now that I think about it, I may have a front driveshaft out of my F 250 at my shop. I am going out there in a bit I will look. If I do it may be the perfect length. If it isnt the shaft may still have good components on it which would eliminate some of the parts cost for a new shaft. I have a spot in my mind where I think I keep seeing it,but, not positive though.

 

Looks like the drive shaft problem will soon be solved. Bruno's friend James is the drive shaft guy at the place where he works, and builds them all day long. He said he can cut the old stub off and put a new one one, and can supply a new slip-yoke as well.

Bruno - If you find your shaft and it is the same then I could buy it, but otherwise James has mine and will rebuild it this week. Also, I left the pony drum in your yard and James has the air cleaner hold-down rod.

As for what I else I did to Rusty today, I replaced the thermostat. The one that was in it would run at the R in NORMAL for the most part but would sometimes creep up. Then lately it started running cooler, like at N. So, time to change and I put a 195 degree in, which it turns out is what the old one was. Now it runs at R again, but doesn't waver like it used to. And, I sure like the way the 'stat goes in a 351M. Far easier to get to than on a Windsor, and since it is horizontal it doesn't fall out.

And, I partially fixed the turn signals. It had two problems - they don't cancel after a corner, and the left turn didn't blink but the right did. Turns out that the bulb in the rear was either the wrong one or it was bad, as it would light but didn't pull enough current to cause it to blink. I destroyed it getting it out so I don't know what it was, but a new one fixed the blink.

Then I pulled the steering wheel off to get to the blinker switch and found that it is truly broken internally. So I started to pull the one off Brownie but discovered it is a tilt unit, as is the column I have in the attic. IIRC, the tilt switch is different than the standard one, so I put the switch and wheel back on Rusty. But, I discovered that the horn pad, a cruise control version even though Rusty doesn't have cruise, is falling apart. Which is apparently why the PO has a cover on the steering wheel's rim - to hold the horn pad together. So, I put my spare cruise-style horn pad on and that problem is fixed.

As for the turn signals, how big of a job is it to swap a tilt column in? Does the whole column have to change, or is there something at the top that can be swapped?

EDIT: I found a little spot of very clean oil in the driveway after the run to Bruno's and back. Doesn't look like ATF, and my guess is that it is Conoco Super All-Season 10W30, and judging by the lubricity I'd say it is probably their Synthetic Blend. (Holmes, eat your heart out.) So, I started looking. The drive shaft that was bone dry yesterday after having been de-gunked has a spray pattern on it. The back of the block is wet, as is the front of the tranny. That took me to the back of the block where the oil pressure sending unit is, inc my tee and tap for the aftermarket gauge. Sure enough, there's a puddle of oil in the depression around the fitting. But, the fittings look perfectly dry and don't put oil on a clean paper towel.

So, is there a pan under the intake on these things? A leak in it would do exactly what I'm seeing, right? I'll run it more to watch for leaks, but I'm pretty sure that the way I put it together isn't going to leak, so I lean to an engine leak. And remember, the goo at the back of the block was awful when I started looking for the casting info.