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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #286  
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Gary , I have an adapter for the throttle linkage from ebrock. However, it is speced for a 351W instead of an M. I dont know what the difference would be,but ,we can check it out to see. The adapter will not work with my set up because I have aftermarket valve covers to allow for the roller rockers and such. Maybe it will work for the M motor. That is something else we need to look into modifying wile we are at it. The set up I am using needs some attention. Not much , but , some.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #287  
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Originally Posted by bruno2
Gary , I have an adapter for the throttle linkage from ebrock. However, it is speced for a 351W instead of an M. I dont know what the difference would be,but ,we can check it out to see. The adapter will not work with my set up because I have aftermarket valve covers to allow for the roller rockers and such. Maybe it will work for the M motor. That is something else we need to look into modifying wile we are at it. The set up I am using needs some attention. Not much , but , some.
Bruno - We can work on your linkage on Sat along with the carb. Shouldn't be a problem. But, I compared M to W brackets today and they are quite different.

All - I forgot to say in my post that what I did on the bracket also lined the linkage up fore/aft as well as spaced it away from the carb's secondary linkage. Before that it ran at an angle toward the driver's side front, and brushed the secondary linkage.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #288  
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It's no engine teardown and 8-page microanalysis, but that is some good feedback.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #289  
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This adapter looks as though it may do several applications. I am going to bring it so we can see if Dad's truck or Rusty likes it.

Again Gary, I am saying just throw that 1406 behind the seat of Rusty and be done with it. Go back to the Holley's.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 07:25 PM
  #290  
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Found one of the awful rattles on Rusty today - the aftermarket radio had no support at the back and was banging on things. Discovered it has a removable faceplate, and that the unit itself wasn't properly secured at the front. It is a mess and since you can't hear it over the tires, wind, and exhaust I'm wondering why bother to fix it.

While I was tinkering I fixed the snorkel on the air cleaner since it was loose and banging on things as well. Drilled the fasteners out and put in 1/4" square-drive screws, nuts, and washers. Problem solved and now it is unlikely anyone can steal the snorkel.

Then I took it for one of the trips to O'Reilly's. Started nicely on the choke and the fast idle was about right. But, I apparently got my throttle cable bracket just a bit too far to the rear as the tube on the tip sometimes catches on the outer sheath when you try to take off. Looks like I'll rework the bracket. And maybe even design an adjustable one.

And, I'm thinking it is time to pull the top off the carb as the occasional miss is now more often and more pronounced. In fact, the idle isn't good anymore. Either some debris has worked loose in the bowl and covers a jet or somesuch from time to time or the sparkplug wire I pulled the terminal loose on has gone bad. I don't think it is the plug wire, especially since the idle when I got home was pretty poor - far worse than one cylinder could do.

Or, I guess it is possible the fuel pressure is too high today since I'm not running a regulator. But, it seemed ok yesterday, so I doubt that. The more I think about it the more debris coming loose makes since this is the first time in many years it has had gas in it.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 01:06 AM
  #291  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Found one of the awful rattles on Rusty today - the aftermarket radio had no support at the back and was banging on things. Discovered it has a removable faceplate, and that the unit itself wasn't properly secured at the front. It is a mess and since you can't hear it over the tires, wind, and exhaust I'm wondering why bother to fix it.
Hi Gary, I haven't been following for a while.

There seem to be so many problems caused by rough radio installations.

When I got my truck it would flatten the battery over time, because of incorrect wiring that prevented it from switching off, even though it appeared to be; & dash light fuses would immediately blow because of a short on the radio case.

I read today of an 80-86 cab going up in smoke due to a stereo wiring fault
Not good - it could take a house with it during the night.

My parents lost two vehicles & a double garage due to a wiring fault in a 70's Landcruiser.......fortunately it was separate to the house.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #292  
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Ken - Been missing you! Yes, it is so strange that people would buy a nice head unit and then just haphazardly install it. I may do to the radio what Bruno suggested on the E'brock - put it under the seat or in the tool box.

So, remind me what you said the swap from a C6 to a manual tranny did for mileage? Was it 1 or was it 2 MPG? I ask because Dad's truck is at 10.5 and Rusty is at about 12 with the Holley. And, I'm thinking through how much of that is the tranny and how much the engine.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #293  
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I "rebuilt" the 1406 E'brock today. Actually, just disassembled it, cleaned the gunk out, blew all the passages out with carb cleaner and then air, and set the float levels and drops. In addition I installed the fuel inlet banjo fitting to reroute the fuel line away from the air cleaner. And, I tweaked the throttle linkage bracket by bending it so things can't hit and catch.

To this point I've only taken it around the neighborhood, as Bruno is due any minute. But, the difference is dramatic. It idles perfectly, starts quickly, and there is no miss or stumble. In fact, it pulls from ~13 MPH in 4th just fine.

Here's what I found:
  • One metering rod's piston was stuck up
  • One side of the accelerator pump discharge nozzle was plugged
  • There was a mud dobber's nest in the secondary weight well which might influence secondary engagement
  • The float level's were high by 1/32" on one side and 3/64" on the other side
  • The float drops were too much by 1/4". I've never been sure exactly what problem this causes, but have always set them properly.
  • There was crud in one secondary emusion tube and some of the secondary emulsion tube orifices were plugged
  • There was lots of crud on the bottom of the bowls, and it was soft and gooey so it was probably letting go and causing all sorts of fits
 

Last edited by Gary Lewis; Apr 21, 2012 at 11:02 PM. Reason: correct a MISTAKE
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 11:49 PM
  #294  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
So, remind me what you said the swap from a C6 to a manual tranny did for mileage? Was it 1 or was it 2 MPG? I ask because Dad's truck is at 10.5 and Rusty is at about 12 with the Holley. And, I'm thinking through how much of that is the tranny and how much the engine.
Really, although there was a definite power gain, I only picked up 1-1.5 mpg with the swap, running empty & just cruising @ 55. But I think that's the type of driving where the least gain will be made.

Not long before I did the swap, I trailered the truck home that was to be the parts donor - so about 3 ton (trailer & load) all up.
On that trip with the C6, my mileage dropped down by 5-6 miles/US gal (a lot of hills).
I suspect the manual would be more economical on the same job, but I haven't had to do a similar trip since to know for sure.

I've just put a new set of plugs in my truck & sidegapped them as an economy/power experiment. I did notice a slight power improvement, but probably would have without sidegapping too; it'll be interesting to watch mpg long-term anyway.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:05 AM
  #295  
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Ken - You may be right that your kind of driving doesn't show the mileage difference potential between C6 and a manual. I would expect the largest difference when the truck is working - either towing or running fast.

I'm anxious to see what Rusty will do with the Edelbrock now that I seem to have it sorted. I've always like trying to get better mileage from my rides, and now with price of petrol it is even more rewarding.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:19 AM
  #296  
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I have a friend involved with a new 'pill-in-the-tank' venture...............I know, I know!

But, last year they sent it to our largest oil refinery for testing, with some impressive results.
It evidently works by making the low level volatiles more readily burnt, & is giving real improvements in mileage, on both gas & diesel engines. Several big-fleet freight companies are now trialing it here.

I might give it a try - nothing to lose with fuel costs up where they are.
The tablets are around $4 each & treat 60 litres (15 gals) of fuel.
We're paying around $US6.92/USgal for 95 octane right now.

Re your Edelbrock, Gary - when my feedback 2150 (or any of the emissions system) gives me trouble, I plan to throw it all & install a Performer manifold & 1406 too, so it will be interesting to see your mpg figures now.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 07:51 AM
  #297  
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Originally Posted by Ken Blythen
I have a friend involved with a new 'pill-in-the tank' venture...............I know, I know

However, last year they sent it to our largest oil refinery for testing, with some impressive results.
It evidently works by making the low level volatiles more readily burnt, & is giving real improvements in mileage, on both gas & diesel engines. Several big-fleet freight companies are now trialing it here.

I might give it a try - nothing to lose with fuel costs up where they are.
The tablets are around $4 each & treat 60 litres (15 gals) of fuel.
We're paying around $US6.92/USgal for 95 octane right now.

Re your Edelbrock, Gary - when my feedback 2150 (or any of the emissions system) gives me trouble, I plan to throw it all & install a Performer manifold & 1406 too, so it will be interesting to see your mpg figures now.
Interesting. Hadn't heard there was any "pill" being tested now.

Have a friend that installed some kind of "gadget" on his work truck and is claiming increased mileage. Costs several hundred dollars and I passed on an opportunity since the only vehicle it would be worth doing it on is the one we use for long trips, and it is in warranty.

Will keep you posted on the mileage with the 1406, which is sitting on a Performer intake by the way, although obviously one for a 351M/400.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Interesting. Hadn't heard there was any "pill" being tested now.

Have a friend that installed some kind of "gadget" on his work truck and is claiming increased mileage. Costs several hundred dollars and I passed on an opportunity since the only vehicle it would be worth doing it on is the one we use for long trips, and it is in warranty.

Will keep you posted on the mileage with the 1406, which is sitting on a Performer intake by the way, although obviously one for a 351M/400.
What "gadget" it that Gary?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by kedwinh
What "gadget" it that Gary?
I don't know what the "gadget" is. Can find out if you are interested.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #300  
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Just wondering, interested in anything that really works to add MPG.
If you get the chance that would be great but not really all that important. Most don't live up to there claims and/or aren't cost effective, but I keep looking so interested in anything new I haven't heard of.
 
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