V/Modified B codes, step-by-step
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 527
Likes: 1
From: Marysville, Wa
By the way for the rear springs I ordered the Pro Comp 50191 u-bolts from Amazon and it only cost me 50$ for all the rears. The were about 14" long, to long for my taste but i just cut them off.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Gary, IN
For those with modded B's, is it necessary to use a longer center bolt in the pack or a matter of preference. I'm asking b/c I may go with oem u-bolts from the F250. I noticed once recent installer had a longer u-bolt made.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,050
Likes: 1,549
From: Media PA
Yes a longer center bolt in needed, when you mod the B codes you will add the thicker EX spacers and the bottom two shortest leaves to the B pack so the original center bolt will not be long enough. If you are going to reuse you stock EX 2" block then the U-bolts for a F-350 with the taller 3.5/3.75" block should work out just fine.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
Yes, I needed a longer center "spring pack" bolt since the modded b has 2 additional leaves. Most suspension shops that can make U bolts can get you some. About $7 per at most.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 41
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With NEW V's up front, and NEW B's out back, people reusing the OEM stock blocks have reported an almost level stance, with the rear-end that sits slightly lower than the front. Because of that front high, rear low stance, the 3.5" tapered block (some call it the 4" tapered block) was used to get the rear-end higher than the front, thereby succeeding in achieving the eye-appealing factory-like rake with the rear-end slightly higher.
When Modded B codes are used, you do not have to use the 3.5" tapered blocks, but some early spring swappers still ditched the OEM blocks for the 3.5" blocks. It made the rake more pronounced, but according to their posts, it was still eye-appealing.
In short, you can do the V code/B code swap (not modded B) and still use the stock block, but I wouldn't unless you like that rear-end lower look (I hate it) .
Stewart
When Modded B codes are used, you do not have to use the 3.5" tapered blocks, but some early spring swappers still ditched the OEM blocks for the 3.5" blocks. It made the rake more pronounced, but according to their posts, it was still eye-appealing.
In short, you can do the V code/B code swap (not modded B) and still use the stock block, but I wouldn't unless you like that rear-end lower look (I hate it) .
Stewart
Install V codes
Install Factory B-codes with stock Ex blocks
Install RAS to rear stock B-codes
I will add more later...but I found a surprise when I went to do my swap today....my rear springs are not factory and have already been swapped out at some prior point by a previous owner. It is an all spring setup with no block. They left the overload leaf on the top and just torched off the ends so it would not hit the e-brake caple. It has like 8 leaves in it, plus the top block and top overload. The "mass of leaves under the top block measure right at 3"....which is more than the measurement of the stock B codes. (I will post pics when able...I'm on the IPAD this weekend and don't have photo bucket upload capabilities.)
in a nutshell, I don't have stock ex springs or stock blocks to make the swap work. I do have new B codes and could order stock blocks and then do the RAS. Hopefully that would work.
Rear is currently at 39" with previous owners "custom not id'd spring swap"
Front with V codes on measures 39" (gained 1.25" over what stock was giving...but a noticeable difference in "tightness in front end")
******UPDATED******
Answered alot of my questions here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...uspension.html
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Lilburn ,GA.
Had the V code put on what a difference.Went from 1/2" from bumpstop to 2 1/2".Now very level.Had the trac bar in the back and they put it on also.The f250 bar was solid not hollow.Only 30 miles on it but it feels alot better.Did the urathane sway bar links on the front also.Got the back to do next just ran out of time.All the pics were a reall help.Keep up the good work.Also fixed the LIE-O-METER and compass.1 resister out one loose. Thanks again.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
We have had quite a few miles towing on this setup with no real issues.
Picture from this winter below shows the unloaded 'rake'.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 215
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte, NC
GET THE BOLTS: ...If you are modding the B's, you will need new U bolts AND new center spring pack bolts. Expect about $5 per center spring pack bolt (2 needed). I got the center bolts about 2" or so longer than stock (you can always cut them down after you mod the B's).
Yes a longer center bolt in needed, when you mod the B codes you will add the thicker EX spacers and the bottom two shortest leaves to the B pack so the original center bolt will not be long enough. If you are going to reuse you stock EX 2" block then the U-bolts for a F-350 with the taller 3.5/3.75" block should work out just fine.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
If they are a little bit too long, no worries since the top plate has a hole in it. The leaves are all about the same thickness, so just adding 2 plus the 1/4" (to account for the spacers) worked fine for me. Now, if you go 1" or more longer, you could feasably have a bolt so long it can hit the underside somewhere (frame maybe - I don't have a pic in front of me to know what would be at risk). I also had a 4" cutting wheel on standby to trim it down if needed, but I never used it.
Also, the bolts I got were threaded top to bottom...if the ones you get aren't, you'll need to take that into account as well.
One note though - I needed a step bit to drill out the hole on the top plate. The factory spring pack bolt had what I can only call a "narrow wall" nut that fit inside the opening on the top plate. The replacement I got I could tell was thicker just from looking at it. I picked up one of those step bits (the fat one), and when I had the top plate off I just drilled it one size over existing - worked like a charm.
Be sure to paint the top plate after drilling but before install to cover the exposed metal from drilling if you are in a salt state.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,254
Likes: 120
I picked up a 6" bolt from a spring shop and was ready to do some trimming on it but didn't need to do it. I probably could have gotten away with a 5" bolt.
I did the b-mod springs with the stock tapered X block.
Tim M
I did the b-mod springs with the stock tapered X block.
Tim M