V/Modified B codes, step-by-step
 

Ok, so I know my particular thread kind of wandered (I didn't end up doing what I initially asked about, etc.), so since between this thread and the other, here is a step by step. I know there is another step by step post on the other site, but I found that they do some steps I think you don't need to do (removing the shock bracket, removing the blocker beam, etc.) - and I noticed he ordered square bolts for his front instead of semi-rounded...so here is my version.

To all who have already done this...PLEASE review the steps below closely in case I forgot something...if we get everyone's experiences in, we can post a definative "step by step" with pics that should rival the Ford shop manuals.

Before you do anything, sit down and take a few days to make sure you know what you want to do and what your daily driving conditions are. Then think about what your towing situation will be (if any).

My particular situation was that I had a 2000 V10 that only had about 5/8" of clerance between my front bump stops and springs. I don't run with my third row in (I rarely if ever need to take more than myself + 4), and I have a storage box/drawer in the back that holds about 200-250lbs (gear, inverter, sub box, amp, medical gear, lights/radios, etc.) total. When I tow, I use a hitch ball that is longer than most stock setups, so the weight I have "feels" heavier to the suspension.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90125

As you can see, it puts my hitch weight a good 6-8" or so farther back than a stock ball, so the 760lbs of tonge weight is amplified slightly.

I use my rig for day-to-day driving, and I am on call with our local FD for SAR operations, so I couldn't really put a huge lift on it (I need to be able to fit into garages and what not in the City).

So with all of my factors, I decided I needed a decent "unloaded" rake since the 200-250lbs of day-to-day weight woukd probably add a good 1/4" of "sag". My goal was to run just a bit of rake or run level with the day to day load, and to run level or slightly down (no more than 1/4") when loaded.

All that being said, I decided I could not go with just Vs up front and stock rears with the taller blocks...I needed strength to counteract my day to day load an height to counteract the V codes. To get both, I needed Modded Bs - B codes with the thicker stock spacers between the leaves and an additional 2 leaves from the stock springs (credit CT Performance and a bunch of other guys who did this before me...they thought it up and had the balls to do it first...I just waited to make sure their axles didn't fly off and followed their lead). :)

I decided IF I sagged too much under load, I can always add RAS or Air Bags if I don't want to run a weight distribution hitch. (I'm leaning towards Air Bags if I do add something - only because I can dial it in "on demand" and deflate them when not towing...RAS can't really be easily adjusted).

Anyway, IF you decide on this or a similar variation, here are some things to do first -

GET THE SPRINGS: You can go new or if you have some patience you can get them for a song from a local yard. Here in the Sacramento Area I went to Rancho Truck Dismantlers and got a set of V's with 52k on them and a set of B's with about 56k on them. I have no idea how many more they may have, but they have a LOT more F250/350 trucks in their yard with springs still on them.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=89721

I'd expect to pay around $400-$450 at a more expensive yard...WAY less if you go with Craigslist or a local suspension shop "take-offs". If you get new ones, it will be closer to $600. My only warning on CL/suspension shop take-off springs would be you have to make sure the seller can verify they are V/B springs (as others have stated, you can't tell from looking at the codes on the springs, you have to check the B pillar sticker for the suspension code). Same with a yard or pick-and-pull yard. I made sure they were still on the truck so I could verify the sticker myself.

GET THE BOLTS: The Ford shop manual states you shouldn't re-use your U bolts - some guys on the board are running their original bolts with no problems, so it's really a personal preference. I went with new - if I wreck with the FD trailer hooked up, I don't want the City safety guys to blame it on a part I should not have used and try to hit me or my insurance with another 100K to replace the trailer.

If you are modding the B's, you WILL need different rear U bolts. If you are going with V's in the front, the same size bolts will work. Make sure you get the semi-rounded bolts, not the square or the round ones...if you get square ones, they will be initially tight, then could get loose as they flex...semi-rounded is the correct type.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90663

Go to a local spring shop - you should expect to pay between $10 and $13 per U bolt (4 per axle). If you are modding the B's, you will need new U bolts AND new center spring pack bolts. Expect about $5 per center spring pack bolt (2 needed). I got the center bolts about 2" or so longer than stock (you can always cut them down after you mod the B's). I got my U bolts about 1 1/2" longer than stock and they worked out perfectly (no cutting needed).

SOCKETS: Make sure your socket set has a 15/16" 6 point deep well and a 21mm 6 point deep well - 12 points may not work (they can slip over the bolts/nuts). You should also have a good torque wrench (to 200lbs or so), and the rest of the sockets you probably have in your socket set.

PB Blaster: Local auto parts stores should carry it. If you live in the rust belt or near salt spray, hit up the U bolts and Spring to Frame/Spring to Shackle bolts a few days out and every day till you do the job. I live in the Sac area and I had no rust on my truck or the new springs so I got away with hitting them the day of.

PROPANE TORCH OR SIMILAR: Makes it WAY easier to take off the nuts from bolts where they used the blue Lock-Tite.

FIRE EXTINGUISHER: See the post about the mechanic that burned up a FTE member's truck. 'Nuff said.

EYE PROTECTION: Rust in the eyes makes for a bad day. SAFETY FIRST

2 FLOOR JACKS AND 4 TALL JACK STANDS (If you don't have access to a lift) I also used a few 4x4 scraps.

Get to work -

Get the rig on flat ground and time to start. I started with the rear end first.

Take pics and measurements for the "before" section of your post for the forum - don't forget this vital part!! :) Remember, just because you sink 8 hours of knuckle-breaking work into the V/Modded B code spring swap - if you didn't take pics, it didn't happen!

Set the E Brake, chock the front tires.

Jack the truck up by the axle just enough to get the wheels off the ground.
Set the jack stands on the frame, making sure to leave room to get to the spring-to-frame bolts.

Pull both rear wheels.

Lower the rear axle till the suspension is hanging by the springs...lift it back just a bit and set the other two jack stands to hold the axle.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90844

Find the AC lines along the passenger side and remove the nuts holding the clamps that keep the AC lines in place - you'll need to flex them down a touch to get the spring to frame bolts out.

Hit the U Bolts and spring to frame and spring to shackle bolts with PB blaster.

Remove the front bumper while you wait for the PB blaster to work. The front bumper is held on by 4 bolts in the front (two to each side of the front tow rings) and 1 more on each side where the bumper support struts hit the frame. Have a buddy with you, if the bumper tilts down you can scratch the paint on the front fenders.

Remove the bumper (be sure to disconnect the driving lights if you have them) and set aside.

Hit the front spring to frame bolts with PB blaster as well as the spring to shackle bolts and the front U bolts.

Go back to the rear and remove the forward spring to frame bolts. Heat the nut up a bit ONLY IF you can ensure the PB blaster has been wiped away/dried enough. I didn't need to heat mine on the rear, but it makes it much easier if you do. Leave the bolt in, just remove the nut for now.

Remove the spring to shackle nut from the aft end of the spring pack. Leave the bolt in place until you can remove the 4 U bolts...it will help give you something to torque against.

Once you get the U bolts off, drop the axle as far as possible. I used 4x4 blocks to get it as low as possible without bending the brake shields.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90845

Remove the spring to frame and spring to shackle bolts. You'll need to pull the AC lines away to get the passenger side bolt out.

You should now have enough room to drop the aft end of the spring packs and pull them out towards the bumper.

MODDING THE B CODE SPRINGS:
On the springs you take off of the truck (old springs), hit the center spring pack bolt with PB blaster on the nut side only. I actually didn't need it at all.

Set C clamps onto the old springs...I put one near the center bolt, then two more on either side:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90846

I took a set of vice grips and locked them on the round head of the bolt and just used a regular ratchet to remove the nut.

Once you get the bolt out, release the C clamps and "flip" the springs upside down so the arch is up. Loosen all three C clamps. Pull the bottom two leaves from the pack along with all of the center spacers - discard the anti-wrap leaf and the uper three leaves.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3c23377cf4.jpg

Take note when you break apart the spring pack and put everything back together that you keep the front to the front and the back to the back.

Repeat the process on the B code springs - placing three C clamps, removing the center pin bolt then slowly releasing pressure from the C clamps. Flip the springs upside down, take those bottom two leaves out, replace all of the thin spacers with the thicker ones from your stock springs. Put on the two additional leaves and the rectangular bracket, then use the new center bolt to align the leaves. Once you get them lined up, remove the bolt, put on the B code bottom leaf and put the pin back in. Use the C clamps to compress the pack slowly, making sure the leaves are not sliding around tearing up that center bolt. If you have a "driff pin" (read that on another FTE members posting) use that...I didn't have one so I used the bolt. Use a hammer to tap the leaves to keep them straight as you tighten the C clamps fully. Put the new bolt in and tighten down.

NOTE: Ford could not give me a torque spec on this since Ford does not recommend changing the spring packs. I tightened mine down by hand pretty hard.

Remove the C clamps and you should have a new Modded B spring pack:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...26c5816bad.jpg


I took this chance to clean, treat and re-spray the rectangular bracket and blocks, as well as the surface of the axle block plate...might as well do as much preventative stuff as you can while you have it apart.

Take the top plate that holds the U bolts to the spring and check the diameter of the new center spring nut as compared to the hole. The bolts I bought had nuts that were bigger than stock, so instead of grinding down the bolt to fit in like some have, I used a step bit to open the hole on the top plate a little. While you check this, you can see if you need to cut down your center bolt. I wouldn't let it get higher than the U bolts are going to sit.

Put the springs back on the truck reversing the process. Tighten the spring to frame and spring to shackle bolts to 185 ft/lbs. Tighten the spring to frame bolts to 206 ft/lbs. Tighten the U bolts to 185 ft/lbs.

Jack the axle up, reinstall the wheels, jack the axle up further and remove the jack stands from the frame and drop the entire truck back down. Take a (gentle) spin to make sure you don't see anything funky (running dogleg/"crabbing", etc.).

Now to the front...you already removed the bumper.

Set the E brake, chock the rear wheels.

Jack the front axle up but not high enough to spin the tires. Remove the lug nuts, then jack up the axle enough to remove the tires.

Jack up the front as far as you can, then set jack stands on the frame, making sure you can reach the spring to shackle bolts.

Lower the axle until it is hanging by the springs, then jack it back up about 1/4"-1/2".

Remove the AC condenser brackets from the front. BE VERY CAREFUL, those fins are about as strong as paper and bend just as easy.

Wipe off any excess PB blaster from the spring to frame bolts, heat the nuts and remove. Leave the bolts in for now.

Wipe off any excess PB blaster from the spring to shackle bolts, heat the nuts and remove. Leave the bolts in for now.

Remove the U bolts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90849

Drop the axle...I used a 4x4 again to get it as low as possible without bending the brake shields.

We removed the aft bolts first. One side (can't remember if it's the driver or passenger side) hit the drive shaft. If you have the bolts from the donor truck, just cut the bolt on your rig with a cutting wheel...you can use the donor truck bolt. If you didn't get the bolt, you may want to either fiddle with the front axle to see if you can clear it, or just remove the drive shaft from the diff or the drive shaft from the transfer case - if you do this, mark both sides (the drive shaft and the diff/transfer case) so you put it back the same way you took it off.

Remove the front spring-to-frame bolts.

Flip the springs upside down and pull out towards the front.

Making sure you have front-to front and back-to-back, put in the new V code springs.

Flip them over and put in the spring-to-frame and spring-to-shackle bolts. Don't tighten them down just yet, you may need to wiggle a bit to get the axle lined up with the spring pack bolts.

Place the shock mounts (top plates) back in place and lift the axle to set the spring bolts into the hole in the axles. My passenger side went in easy, but the driver side was a pain...I think it was because I tightened down the U bolts on the passenger side first.

Once you get both sides of the front axle to seat with the V code spring bolts, insert and snug down the U bolts. You may need to fiddle with the axle...jack up the spring, or use ratchet straps to get everything to align right - that's why you didn't tighten up the spring bolts earlier.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=90850

Tighten the spring to frame bolts to 206 ft/lbs.

Tighten the spring to shackle bolts to 185 ft/lbs.

Tighten the U bolts to 99 ft/lbs.

Jack up the axle, attach both wheels.

If you dropped the drive shaft, reattach now, making sure you align it the same orientation you had it before you removed it.

Reattach the condenser brackets.

Reattach the front bumper - don't forget to connect the driving lights.

Raise the truck at the axle enough to get the jack stands out, drop the rig.

Raise your glass to a job well done and start taking your "after" photos and measurements.

Post your experience on the forum for all to see!

Well done!

Great job on the write-up. I would add just a few comments. The Ex should be down on the ground with the tires on prior to final torque (if possible - was easy with when doing my lift) to allow everything to settle into place. The other thing I would do is measure and write down the wheel well heights before and after to make sure the numbers look right. I know a guy how did the install and for some reason the right rear is up more than a inch. Not sure if it started this way since measurements were not done prior to starting.

Very good, bro!

Stewart

Thats in there...pics and measurements before and after...

How would using the jacks to raise the axle be putting different tension than the wheels on and the truck on the ground? The forces on the suspension are the same.

Using a lift I would agree with your statement, but when using jacks and jack stands, I wouldn't recommend that...the front end would be loose and dropping the truck on the ground in that state then climbing underneath wouldn't be safe. When the truck still has the lift to provide a safety buffer that woukd be acceptable.

Not trying to nitpick, but for those reading quickly let's make sure we specify when that is safe to do and when it isn't.

Everything needs to be snug before putting it on the ground (not loose). The weight needs to be on the axles to make sure everything seats and lines up correctly. Jack stands can be placed under the frame with no weight on them as a safety precaution. If the axle is left on the jacks it is not free to move for final alignment. It was also recommended to pull forward and back some prior to final torque. This is the procedure recommended by Caryt who runs a suspension shop and is the creator of the modified B spring. I agree safety is priority one.

How do you figure that? I used jacks under the axle with jack stands as safety and I could see (and hear) the jacks roll front to rear as I aligned the axle. Once the pins from the spring packs align with the plates, there is nothing else left to align...I dont see how is that any different than setting it on the ground.

Robert, great post with plenty of purdy pics! Well done. I never get enough photos, I start off with good intentions but once my hands get dirty I pick up the camera less and less. :-X19

Robert - I have sent you a PM with some more info.

If it hadn't taken 18 hours I'd have taken more, but we were getting frustrated! :)

And great info it was...I'd rep ya but it says I'm in rep jail!

Thanks Robert. I did a little more research and now to share the info with the rest of the group about when to torque the bolts. I do have a copy of the 2005 Ford Excursion service manual and this is according to its procedure. I can email a PDF of this to anyone that sends me a PM along with a email address to send it to. Step 4 is to intstall the spring bolt and nut but not tighten in this step. Step 5 says to install the U-bolts and nuts but to not tighten at this point. Step 7 says "NOTE: The suspension must be loaded with the weight of the vehicle before the U-bolts and the leaf spring mounting bolts can be tightened. Make sure that the axle locating pin is correctly aligned with the axle. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the front suspension is supporting all the weight of the vehicle."

So in the Ford manual it does want all the weight on the axle before final torque. I also looked at install sheets by BDS suspension and Pro Comp. BDS also both stated to put the tires on and lower the vehicle on the ground before torquing the spring bolts and U-bolts. Pro Comp has the U-bolts tightened while still up in the air but says to put the tires on and lower to the ground to torque the spring bolts.

I hope this helps to clear some of this up.

Just out OD curiosity, what torque numbers do your sheets say?

Robert and everyone else who did the V, B Codes change.

Did you guy change the springs bushing also? The bushing I am asking are at the end of the springs.