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V/Modified B codes, step-by-step

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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 06:45 PM
  #46  
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Better shot of the final V/Modded B look on stock tires/wheels. This is on a level parking lot, not the slight grade in front of my house:
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:24 PM
  #47  
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So, I may have missed it in the thread. Did you leave your stock block on the back springs AND do the B-mod?

I just got an email from someone I've been talking with telling me you cannot do the v/b-mod swap without removing that block. "If you don't remove the block it will not sit level"....this is what I was told and I'm just trying to get the info straight......

I've got 6.0l 4x4....if that matters with the weight on the front maybe?

Thanks....
 

Last edited by FELNTPSY; Feb 14, 2012 at 08:25 PM. Reason: updated with motor info....
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by FELNTPSY
So, I may have missed it in the thread. Did you leave your stock block on the back springs AND do the B-mod?

I just got an email from someone I've been talking with telling me you cannot do the v/b-mod swap without removing that block. "If you don't remove the block it will not sit level"....this is what I was told and I'm just trying to get the info straight......

I've got 6.0l 4x4....if that matters with the weight on the front maybe?

Thanks....
I did the V codes on the front and did the "Modified B" on the rear with the stock blocks. Keep in mind the pic above is hiding 200-250lbs of gear in the back already. Without that load I might sit 1/4" or so higher in the rear.

There are a few ways to go when you do the Vs on the front:
1. No spring change on the rear and get the 3 1/2" tapered blocks (maybe that was what your buddy was referring to?) - might give you a slightly higher rear end but the same load capability as stock.
2. B codes in the rear with a stock (I think) block (guys, chime in with the correct size if not stock) - sits level but might still sag a bit when towing, and you get more load capability on the springs (NOT increased axle capability).
3. Modified B - take the bottom two leaves from the stock springs and add them to the B codes and use the stock block (that is what I did and you can see it in the pic) - sits higher when unloaded but level when towing heavy, gives you height AND additional load capability from the springs in addition to the already better B codes (again, just spring, NOT additional axle load).

Other solutions involve combinatins of RAS, air bags and other rear spring codes.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #49  
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With NEW V's up front, and NEW B's out back, people reusing the OEM stock blocks have reported an almost level stance, with the rear-end that sits slightly lower than the front. Because of that front high, rear low stance, the 3.5" tapered block (some call it the 4" tapered block) was used to get the rear-end higher than the front, thereby succeeding in achieving the eye-appealing factory-like rake with the rear-end slightly higher.

When Modded B codes are used, you do not have to use the 3.5" tapered blocks, but some early spring swappers still ditched the OEM blocks for the 3.5" blocks. It made the rake more pronounced, but according to their posts, it was still eye-appealing.

In short, you can do the V code/B code swap (not modded B) and still use the stock block, but I wouldn't unless you like that rear-end lower look (I hate it) .

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #50  
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I knew Stewart would be able to get some more detailed info - he's been watching dozens of us post questions on the topic.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 11:15 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
I knew Stewart would be able to get some more detailed info - he's been watching dozens of us post questions on the topic.
Yeah, for about six years now.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #52  
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Question about the C-Clamp to hold the springs, will a 6" C-clamp adequate? or do I need to get the 8".

Thanks,
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:20 PM
  #53  
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Get the 8'' and the 6'' as a backup. Just tell the wife both are needed...
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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Okay, getting both 6" and 8" C-clamp
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:59 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Get the 8'' and the 6'' as a backup. Just tell the wife both are needed...
Smart!
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 11:28 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Get the 8'' and the 6'' as a backup. Just tell the wife both are needed...
Wife?

These are tools. Yaint gotta tell the wife anything except ya bought tools, and that's if you want to.

When it comes to vehicle mods and parts, yes, she's my voice of reason. She keeps my PMS centered and in control. But tools? Phhhhhhhhttttttt.

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 11:51 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Wife?

These are tools. Yaint gotta tell the wife anything except ya bought tools, and that's if you want to.

When it comes to vehicle mods and parts, yes, she's my voice of reason. She keeps my PMS centered and in control. But tools? Phhhhhhhhttttttt.

Stewart
Next thing I'm going to tell her that we need a bigger garage for the Ex, so she need to get a second job to pay for the new garage too.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 12:03 AM
  #58  
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Devo baby! Crack that whip!



http://youtu.be/IIEVqFB4WUo

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #59  
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Just did the swap on my 02. With brand new springs I gaing exactly 3 inches all the way around I love the new stance. Have not driven it yet. But the looks alone were worth it. I have 1 Issue now my excursion came with new tires on it and now I NEED bigger ones
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by BuiltFordTough!
With brand new springs I gaing exactly 3 inches all the way around
DAYUM!!! You must have been running practically on the bump stops!!
 
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