Project TGM
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Like Brett said. Save yer $100. Take yer Mom out to dinner with it. I would ad that when seating the studs an air compressor works good also with a washer under the lug nut with the wheel off to suck them in all the way. But a 4 way lug wrench works also. Yer young Bud. DIY. I have done many without pulling the rotor. Check it out. If there is one place in the rotation that the stud can come out. Than ya don't have to pull the rotor. I would do it this way in my shop 7 out of 10 times and beat flat rate shop time. SOOO the shop if they are any good at it will have it done in like 15 minutes and charge you how much? I'm just sayin Bud. But yer Mom would rather ya spent the money on her. Right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Like Brett said. Save yer $100. Take yer Mom out to dinner with it. I would ad that when seating the studs an air compressor works good also with a washer under the lug nut with the wheel off to suck them in all the way. But a 4 way lug wrench works also. Yer young Bud. DIY. I have done many without pulling the rotor. Check it out. If there is one place in the rotation that the stud can come out. Than ya don't have to pull the rotor. I would do it this way in my shop 7 out of 10 times and beat flat rate shop time. SOOO the shop if they are any good at it will have it done in like 15 minutes and charge you how much? I'm just sayin Bud. But yer Mom would rather ya spent the money on her. Right?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
Thanks for the info guys, i guess sunday i will take the wheel off and check it out. I really don't feel comfortable trying to take the hub apart. If i can do it without pulling everything apart then i will. Yeah i know the hub is easy, probably easier than pulling a transmission. But i just don't feel comfortable messing with something like that.
As for my money being spent on my mom... No she would rather i save it for something else, she doesn't like when i spend it a lot.
As for my money being spent on my mom... No she would rather i save it for something else, she doesn't like when i spend it a lot.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
So which studs would i get? there seems to be different sizes..
Search: wheel stud | Wheel Bolt and Stud | AutoZone.com
Search: wheel stud | Wheel Bolt and Stud | AutoZone.com
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,815
Likes: 708
From: Tobyhanma, PA
I would just make a trip to your new Autozone, they should have some in stock that are right.
Pulling a hub is super easy as long as you have the spindle nut socket and a decent pair of snap ring pliers. No fluid to lose, just grease all over your hands.
Replacing them is so easy it makes you think you're doing it wrong. Just smack it out with a hammer, to seat new studs just pull it thru hub, place a few washers or something on it and thread the lug nut on, then just crank it down.
Pulling a hub is super easy as long as you have the spindle nut socket and a decent pair of snap ring pliers. No fluid to lose, just grease all over your hands.
Replacing them is so easy it makes you think you're doing it wrong. Just smack it out with a hammer, to seat new studs just pull it thru hub, place a few washers or something on it and thread the lug nut on, then just crank it down.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
I would just make a trip to your new Autozone, they should have some in stock that are right.
Pulling a hub is super easy as long as you have the spindle nut socket and a decent pair of snap ring pliers. No fluid to lose, just grease all over your hands.
Replacing them is so easy it makes you think you're doing it wrong. Just smack it out with a hammer, to seat new studs just pull it thru hub, place a few washers or something on it and thread the lug nut on, then just crank it down.
Pulling a hub is super easy as long as you have the spindle nut socket and a decent pair of snap ring pliers. No fluid to lose, just grease all over your hands.
Replacing them is so easy it makes you think you're doing it wrong. Just smack it out with a hammer, to seat new studs just pull it thru hub, place a few washers or something on it and thread the lug nut on, then just crank it down.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
Ok so i got some choices. If i do the work myself, i will need to buy new grease, bearings, and possibly other small things. I will have to get 2 rotors, cheapest ones are $29.99 per side and don't have studs or the center section pressed in. To buy a rotor that has all that stuff it is $209 for only one rotor. Studs are cheap and i will probably need new lug nuts which are probably cheap as well.
I didn't realize the rotors didn't come with any of it. I am thinking for now i should just buy the studs and bearings and do that. But i don't know. I don't know what i am doing anymore...
I didn't realize the rotors didn't come with any of it. I am thinking for now i should just buy the studs and bearings and do that. But i don't know. I don't know what i am doing anymore...
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
Ok so i got some choices. If i do the work myself, i will need to buy new grease, bearings, and possibly other small things. I will have to get 2 rotors, cheapest ones are $29.99 per side and don't have studs or the center section pressed in. To buy a rotor that has all that stuff it is $209 for only one rotor. Studs are cheap and i will probably need new lug nuts which are probably cheap as well.
I didn't realize the rotors didn't come with any of it. I am thinking for now i should just buy the studs and bearings and do that. But i don't know. I don't know what i am doing anymore...
I didn't realize the rotors didn't come with any of it. I am thinking for now i should just buy the studs and bearings and do that. But i don't know. I don't know what i am doing anymore...
You really should have done something with the rotors, turn or replace, when you did the pads. That said;
You don't NEED any parts really to replace the rotors and studs(except the studs and rotors of course), but the seal is cheap and at times hard to get out without damaging it. However there is a trick to get the seal out without damaging it so you can reuse it.
Bearings are the pricey part, and while you should buy some to have on hand in case you need them. You only need to replace them if they show damage. Otherwise you can return them and get your money back.
There's only a few moderatly hard parts of doing this. Packing the bearings with grease, here a ziplock back works great. Getting the right tension on the bearings, take your time and feel it out. And installing new bearing races if you need new bearings.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,908
Likes: 1
From: Algona, Washington
All THIS stuff
Duralast/Brake Rotor - Front (5492) | 1978 Ford Bronco 8 Cylinders H 5.8L 2BLModified OHV | AutoZone.com
The center hub, the studs all the goodies. I think what i will do is pull the passenger side apart then i can figure out everything i need and go on a shopping binge
. I KNOW i need rotors at some point cause mine are thin and rusty, yeah rust isn't the biggest issue, so i am not so concerned with it.
This is what i was looking at towards rotors, it is cheap and more for my budget.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...1_172979_2708_
I can't say why it is so intimidating to me, it just seems like getting these hubs apart is way out of my league. I guess since i don't really need to drive my truck anywhere anytime soon, i can "experiment" with taking that stuff apart and figure out what i will need to do.
Duralast/Brake Rotor - Front (5492) | 1978 Ford Bronco 8 Cylinders H 5.8L 2BLModified OHV | AutoZone.com
The center hub, the studs all the goodies. I think what i will do is pull the passenger side apart then i can figure out everything i need and go on a shopping binge
. I KNOW i need rotors at some point cause mine are thin and rusty, yeah rust isn't the biggest issue, so i am not so concerned with it.This is what i was looking at towards rotors, it is cheap and more for my budget.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...1_172979_2708_
I can't say why it is so intimidating to me, it just seems like getting these hubs apart is way out of my league. I guess since i don't really need to drive my truck anywhere anytime soon, i can "experiment" with taking that stuff apart and figure out what i will need to do.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
Yes those
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
So your shopping list is 2 plain rotors, 10 studs, grease, all 4 bearings with races, and 2 seals. Do your work, then chances are you can return the bearings, races and seals.
If you do end up needing bearings don't replace just the bearings, replace the races to. For that you will need a hammer and chisle to get the old ones out, and an installer to put the new ones in.
Don't forget to grease the hub, might want to replace the o-ring and the bolts if they have issues, at least use anti-seize on them. The little bolts for the hubs are the most likely thing to break.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
THE LUG STUDS THE LUGS STUDS THE LUGS STUDS OMG how many ways is there to answer the same question, screw it, pay someone to do it