Alright thanks for confirming it. Maybe Sunday i will do that. I don't have 4wd now anyways.. With the diff gear issues i can't use it.

 

Just make sure, I can't remember on my old 78, that the yokes for both teh transfer case and diff are bolted on. I.E. give em a tug and make sure they won't fly off without driveshaft there holding them in place.

 

Haha No that would not be good at all would it? I'll be sure to toy with it. I also remembered i am out of gloves I really don't want to get all super greasy... Oh well, gotta do what ya gotta do.

 

I keep forgetting to come on this thread!!!
Bump for another awesome thread!@!

 

Haha thanks much 1ton, it isn't as awesome as some but i try to keep it well updated.

Speaking of update, i went to an interview for a position at a local Oreillys auto part store. The guy said he would review his notes and let me know. As i have been driving TGM it seems the handling has been a bit rough so when i got home i jacked up the driver side and found out my tire was wobbly. The tried the passenger and it was a little less wobbly but not by much.

I talked to my neighbor and he said it is most likely the bearings aren't seat all the way, so i have to go back into the hubs and re-tighten those nuts in there. Not the most grueling task in the world but definitely something i don't want to do. Since i can't get them torqued down fully like i am supposed to (Not the right tools) My neighbor recommended that i tighten it till it doesn't wobble, then tighten a little more and be on my way. Then 3 weeks down the road, go back and check the wheels to ensure there is no more wobbles. It sounds like a good plan to me.

Next slice of the information pie, i have noticed that for a while now i have felt a sort of "clunk" when i am driving at slower speeds. This is before the hub work. I initially thought it was the exhaust leaking and making a thump. Today when i was rolling slow, i did feel it. So Probably on Sunday when i am not doing anything i will pull the front driveline and see what happens. If it fixes it, great, if not... Time to break out my investigation kit. Till then

Cheers

 

A think eh. Check the mounting bolts on teh steering gear box and and that stuff. Those like to work loose.

Hopefully the Oriellys guy calls you back.

 

Yeah a real job would be nice. Though i don't like dealing with customers, it would be my job so i would have to suck it up and do it. The steering box is actually fine, i was standing on it a few days ago when i was checking my PS fluid. I noticed a while back after i got the hubs done when i drove TGM there seems to be a very faint whine from the PS pump. Coulda been my imagination but you never know. I had my mom wiggle the tire up and down while i watched the back. The tire and rim moved but the brake assembly and u joints didn't. It isn't a really bad wobble and i would drive it, but it is enough where i don't really feel safe with it. It's like riding a bicycle with the front tire nuts loose

 

That sounds terrible

Def need to get that fixed.

 

haha that description is probably a little dramatic but still, you get the idea. It won't be hard to fix. Just a little tightening and some more grease i spose.

 

Got some new photos of TGM. they are more glory shots than anything.









I also had to use some duct tape to fix some trim that was falling off. I will add some speed clips to it later.






So far thats about it. oh wait no it isn't. I pulled the hubs mostly apart agina and the inner spindle nit was pretty loose. I cranked it back down with my new/old breaker bar and i feel like it is pretty darn tight now. In about 3 weeks or so i will re check them. The driverside has a really bad Balljoint issue though, Almost as bad as the wobble from the bearings. Oh well, easy come easy go.

 

sometimes it does have to do with balljoints

 

Yeah. You can tell when it is ball joint or bearing from looking at the back of the wheel, if you have someone wiggle it while watching you will see the whole brake assembly move for balljoints or just the tire and rim if it was the hubs.

 

Ball joints are a pain as you have to pull the entire hub and then pull the axle shaft out just to be able to drop/knock that knuckle off.

 

Yeah i dont think i will attempt the ball joints just yet. I have done enough work for now, i want to enjoy driving it a little more haha. So i drove it about 25 minute out today to meet with a fellow FTEr. It was pretty much all highway driving, and i will say the hubs aren't getting as hot now but their warm. It almost seemed like they were still loose or something but it was probably the road, and me concentrating too much on it. The guy i met up with was telling me that the inner nut shouldn't be tightened much more than 15 footlbs. I have to research this to get the exact torque but i am not so sure on it...

 

So i found this on an offroading.
"There seems to be a number of different torque specs floatin around for these hubs. What I have always used is:
inner bearing adjusting nut, torque to 70lbs/ft while rotating the hub back and forth to seat the bearings. Back the nut off 90 degrees (1/4 turn), retighten the nut to 15-20 lb ft, subject to one of the lockring (which goes on next) holes aligning with the dowel pin on the inner bearing adjusting nut. Outer locknut goes on next, and is cranked down to 150-180lb/ft. My torque wrench only goes to 150, so that's where I torque it to. The wheel should turn with only little hand effort and there should really be no noticeable end to end play"

It sounds like a good plan but i am not sure. I have heard mixed things.