The camper thread! Pulling, using, equipment, maintenance!
#616
I have a few Question about towing my new to me 1996 Jayco 262 Eagle Travel Trailer
The Trailer has a 7500 LBS Has new wheels bearing and Breaks
The Ex is a 03 7.3 Diesel 4X4 that I removed the Blocks on the rear axcel to Lower it so it would fit in the under ground parking where I work
I installed a set of Firestone Air bags to get and inch of height back and take them to 25PSI when I put the trailer on. The rear sprins are new but stock configuration the Shocks look old and ar just gray in color
I have a rease torsion bar WD with a sway controle adapter that you tighten
My Hitch came with 800# and 1200# bars and I am using the 1200# set with 5 Links with out the trailer or bars the truck is 38" back and 37.5 front with the bars and trailer I am 37.5 back and 37.25 front
now the problem
I am finding the truck and trailer to be bouncy when ever I am on a rough road or go over a bump it will bounce for a few seconds after and it feals dramatic.
I dont have "sway" but the hole truck and trailer will try to change lanes some times (mostly cross winds)
So now my question Am I using the corect set of bars or should I use the 800# set?
The truck feels good empty but do you think I need new shocks?
Thanks
The Trailer has a 7500 LBS Has new wheels bearing and Breaks
The Ex is a 03 7.3 Diesel 4X4 that I removed the Blocks on the rear axcel to Lower it so it would fit in the under ground parking where I work
I installed a set of Firestone Air bags to get and inch of height back and take them to 25PSI when I put the trailer on. The rear sprins are new but stock configuration the Shocks look old and ar just gray in color
I have a rease torsion bar WD with a sway controle adapter that you tighten
My Hitch came with 800# and 1200# bars and I am using the 1200# set with 5 Links with out the trailer or bars the truck is 38" back and 37.5 front with the bars and trailer I am 37.5 back and 37.25 front
now the problem
I am finding the truck and trailer to be bouncy when ever I am on a rough road or go over a bump it will bounce for a few seconds after and it feals dramatic.
I dont have "sway" but the hole truck and trailer will try to change lanes some times (mostly cross winds)
So now my question Am I using the corect set of bars or should I use the 800# set?
The truck feels good empty but do you think I need new shocks?
Thanks
#617
I would start by reducing the amount of weight put back on the front wheels. I usually aim for about 0.25" higher in the front when the trailer is hooked up(you should aim for 37.75). If this doesn't fix it I would guess that the back of your trailer is heaver than the front, try shifting some weight to the front. When I bought my TT I found a slight bit of porpoising but once I loaded it everything was fine.
If the trailer is nose up it could also be part of the problem, if it's more than an inch high in the front drop your hitch down.
If the trailer is nose up it could also be part of the problem, if it's more than an inch high in the front drop your hitch down.
#618
I would concur with less weight transferred to the front. You don't want to add weight above empty, ideally you want to restore it close to the same. Too much weight sent forward can cause your exact symptoms. Measuring can get you close, but the best way is to set it using a truck scale.
#619
#620
#621
I have a few Question about towing my new to me 1996 Jayco 262 Eagle Travel Trailer
The Trailer has a 7500 LBS Has new wheels bearing and Breaks
The Ex is a 03 7.3 Diesel 4X4 that I removed the Blocks on the rear axcel to Lower it so it would fit in the under ground parking where I work
I installed a set of Firestone Air bags to get and inch of height back and take them to 25PSI when I put the trailer on. The rear sprins are new but stock configuration the Shocks look old and ar just gray in color
I have a rease torsion bar WD with a sway controle adapter that you tighten
My Hitch came with 800# and 1200# bars and I am using the 1200# set with 5 Links with out the trailer or bars the truck is 38" back and 37.5 front with the bars and trailer I am 37.5 back and 37.25 front
now the problem
I am finding the truck and trailer to be bouncy when ever I am on a rough road or go over a bump it will bounce for a few seconds after and it feals dramatic.
I dont have "sway" but the hole truck and trailer will try to change lanes some times (mostly cross winds)
So now my question Am I using the corect set of bars or should I use the 800# set?
The truck feels good empty but do you think I need new shocks?
Thanks
The Trailer has a 7500 LBS Has new wheels bearing and Breaks
The Ex is a 03 7.3 Diesel 4X4 that I removed the Blocks on the rear axcel to Lower it so it would fit in the under ground parking where I work
I installed a set of Firestone Air bags to get and inch of height back and take them to 25PSI when I put the trailer on. The rear sprins are new but stock configuration the Shocks look old and ar just gray in color
I have a rease torsion bar WD with a sway controle adapter that you tighten
My Hitch came with 800# and 1200# bars and I am using the 1200# set with 5 Links with out the trailer or bars the truck is 38" back and 37.5 front with the bars and trailer I am 37.5 back and 37.25 front
now the problem
I am finding the truck and trailer to be bouncy when ever I am on a rough road or go over a bump it will bounce for a few seconds after and it feals dramatic.
I dont have "sway" but the hole truck and trailer will try to change lanes some times (mostly cross winds)
So now my question Am I using the corect set of bars or should I use the 800# set?
The truck feels good empty but do you think I need new shocks?
Thanks
I would start by reducing the amount of weight put back on the front wheels. I usually aim for about 0.25" higher in the front when the trailer is hooked up(you should aim for 37.75). If this doesn't fix it I would guess that the back of your trailer is heaver than the front, try shifting some weight to the front. When I bought my TT I found a slight bit of porpoising but once I loaded it everything was fine.
If the trailer is nose up it could also be part of the problem, if it's more than an inch high in the front drop your hitch down.
If the trailer is nose up it could also be part of the problem, if it's more than an inch high in the front drop your hitch down.
I would concur with less weight transferred to the front. You don't want to add weight above empty, ideally you want to restore it close to the same. Too much weight sent forward can cause your exact symptoms. Measuring can get you close, but the best way is to set it using a truck scale.
I agree with these other experienced TT owners, you are transferring too much weight back onto the front axle. You should target your unhitched front axle weight at most with WD engaged, a little less is OK too. Your trailer looks to be fairly light so maybe those 1200# spring bars are too much for how you are loaded, maybe try the lighter 800# bars you have and see how they feel. To really get your setup dialed in perfectly you need to visit a truck scale, I use CAT scales. Find one near you here CAT Scale Locator | CAT Scale it only costs about $9 for the first weigh and only $1 more for each additional weigh the same day, their truck scales have separate pads for the front, rear and trailer axles, exactly what you will need to get your setup perfect. Here is a really good writeup on dialing in your truck and trailer weights using a WD hitch and a truck scale, follow this and let us know how it tows. RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure
Another point mentioned by jspence was your trailer level, you want the front of the trailer to be level or slightly nose down when hitched up fully and ready to roll, nose up will invite all sorts of bad behavior while towing and braking.
#622
These here: 10x RV Trailer 48 SMD Warm White High Power LED Light Panel 1156 BA15S Adapter | eBay
We go camping to the same lake every time. We go to Clear lake by Minocqua every time.
#623
These here: 10x RV Trailer 48 SMD Warm White High Power LED Light Panel 1156 BA15S Adapter | eBay
We go camping to the same lake every time. We go to Clear lake by Minocqua every time.
We go camping to the same lake every time. We go to Clear lake by Minocqua every time.
Amazeballs!
we are looking at a trip to MI in the UP, Plams Book State Park!
Pure and Clear water.......
#624
Cool! We were looking into camping some lake I forget the name of now that borders between WI and MI and is supposed to be very clear and full of nice fish.
Clear lake that we stay at now I would say you can see about 20-25 feet deep. Possibly more if you actually got in the water and stuck your head under. It where we have always gone and I know the good fishing spots and whatnots. It is hard to get away.
Clear lake that we stay at now I would say you can see about 20-25 feet deep. Possibly more if you actually got in the water and stuck your head under. It where we have always gone and I know the good fishing spots and whatnots. It is hard to get away.
#625
I would concur with less weight transferred to the front. You don't want to add weight above empty, ideally you want to restore it close to the same. Too much weight sent forward can cause your exact symptoms. Measuring can get you close, but the best way is to set it using a truck scale.
10 PSI feels good and keeps the truck around 1/2" to 3/4" lower in the back than the front. 20 PSI puts me back to stock hight
#626
Has nothing to do with your air bags. You just have too much tension on your weight distribution try one less or more link depending on what end you count from.
#627
#628
#629
#630
but that is still taking the 800# to there limit fast