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I flushed the suburban with fresh oil but there was enough water left in the cooler and galleys and condensation that it spun a bearing. these trucks have several quarts of oil in the hpop, cooler, rails and low spots that can hold a lot of water. just procede with caution. when the engine is running at normal temp close to 200 degrees it keeps most of the water evaporated, when it is cold the water separates out of the oil and goes to the lowest point, which is where the oil pick up is.
You have certainly made some good points and speak from experience. Let's hope it's a very short trip.
I flushed the suburban with fresh oil but there was enough water left in the cooler and galleys and condensation that it spun a bearing. these trucks have several quarts of oil in the hpop, cooler, rails and low spots that can hold a lot of water. just procede with caution. when the engine is running at normal temp close to 200 degrees it keeps most of the water evaporated, when it is cold the water separates out of the oil and goes to the lowest point, which is where the oil pick up is.
Ok thanks I'll post on Monday before doing any turning of the key .
You have certainly made some good points and speak from experience. Let's hope it's a very short trip.
expensive experience! mine made it about 4 miles, so now I get to fix a car that has a quarter of a million miles on it, the thing is in pristine condition for a 14 year old car so I am not ready to scrap it yet. and I don't want payments either with my Wife and Son in college full time.
Ok I got the truck back from the Stealership .Got away with a $147. bill. That was for draining the pan and pressure testing the coolant system.
Based on everyones recommendation it looks as if the oil cooler is the first thing I should start with. The block is drained and so is the coolant system. Here's my first question of concern .
Since the block is drained and empty . Before I tackle the cooler should I fill the pan with new oil and fill the radiator with distilled water and turn over the truck to get oil in all the contaminated areas in the block or just leave well enough alone till I have the cooler replaced . As alway the help is greatly appreciated
Tom
This is where I'm at so far . looking for comments and suggestions on a new or used oil cooler and if you agree the current cooler is defective
Thanks
Tom
I would definetly listen to Cody's recommendation to let the element drip till it stops before pulling the element plug . Mine had a big glob of goo and then "look out" I had to screw it back in and thats not so easy with a full flow of coolant ha ha ha . Al in all a pretty easy removal
By the looks of the end caps I would say a whole new oil cooler is the way to go. BUT, I am not convinced that the oil cooler will drain that much coolant into the crankcase. We may be looking for a cracked injector cup, or a blown head gasket.
By the looks of the end caps I would say a whole new oil cooler is the way to go. BUT, I am not convinced that the oil cooler will drain that much coolant into the crankcase. We may be looking for a cracked injector cup, or a blown head gasket.
I'm hoping not but im gonna have to wait I guess, until I start it. I really can't see any leaks on the block. I'm gonna really look it over tomorrow .
Would the injector cup let coolant or fuel in ?
You probably don't need a new one. The cooling core is pretty stout. The cooling core can be cleaned as well as the end caps. Any leaks are almost always due to a bad o-ring. If you buy used you would still have to get a gasket and o-ring kit to redue the used one. Is there a machine shop close by that can boil out the three parts?
FYI to those reading this thread : Try not to confuse the pics posted by AverageX and those posted by quader94. Had me goining for a bit.