No EGR just an Oil Cooler, (Drivers side under exaust manifold where your oil filter goes).

 

I found it a bit difficult to get to the lower front mounting bolt. I removed the serpentine belt and loosened the 5 power steering and alternator bracket bolts and slid it forward for more access to that lower bolt. On re-install I loosely tightened the 3 rear bolts at the filter housing and that greatly helped getting the front aligned to get the two front bolts started. Then I torqued them all down.

 

Ok when I get it back here Monday I'll re-post on my conversations with the mechanic at Ford and what direction it looks like I'm heading .It's definitely not staying there.

 

Here's the truck for the thread

 

Wise decision.

Very nice looking EX by the way. Many more good years left in there for sure.

 

He guys can I grab your ear again ? I'm reading that Ford trucks with green coolant must keep a certain level of SCA's and it creates pit holes in the front cover behind the water pump if diluted ,letting coolant into the oil pan . Can you guys clear this up for me ?
I'm looking at all the options for my upcoming repair . I'm determined to figure out what happened and where the leak is. The other thing that bothers me is that I have the oil drained and the truck is sitting at the dealer . I should have filled with new oil and ran it a sec and then left it for the weekend .

 

SCAs, supplemental coolant additive, is to prevent cavitation erosion. Test strips are used to check for proper levels of SCA in the coolant.

Hear is an article about cavitation erosion. LINK

 

Thanks for the link . If there were pitting or holes in the "front cover" is that a lengthy repair ? or is it like a Alt or Water pump repair . I'm getting into a big repair either way just trying to read up on everything over the weekend to see if I can learn more and more before Monday . Crash coarse in diesel repair

 

Let's not think the worst case scenario yet. I think the engine may need to be pulled to remove the front cover. Hope I'm wrong and someone will correct me.

Start with the easy thing first. Check out the oil cooler.

A couple more tips on the oil cooler R&R.

Cody is a superman and was able to use his strength and body weight to get the ends back on the cooler core. I am not a superman and used a bar clamp. Minimum length of 24". It was barely up to the task. A pipe clamp would work better.




The rear mount has indexing marks to orient it to the cooler core as shown in Cody's thread but the front doesn't. Just keep in mind that both ends mount on generally the same plane. With both ends on the mounting surfaces should both sit flat on the same even surface.

When you just pull the engine block heater element to drain the coolant it will gush out. I just unscrewed it until it was leaking out and just patiently waited so I wouldn't have a big mess on my garage floor.

More info. Easier said then done.

 

Ok I'll start with that . I should have went and got the truck today. I didn't think of it till sitting at the dinner table . "Why did you wait till Monday ?" I could be working on it now and all day tomorrow

 

I wouldn't recommend running it with water in the oil! my suburban just seized up yesterday from an intake gasket dumping water in the oil.

 

In an earlier post he said oil is drained. I'm sure he would do what I would. Buy 4 gallons of cheap Supertech oil at China-Mart to get it home.

 

I'll have it towed to my house . It's only 3 miles away but I'm not driving it !!

 

yup oils drained and sitting in a Ford Dealers garage . I have a meeting with them Monday am. to discuss my coarse of action.
The only thing I had them do was drain the pan and pressure test the cooling system . They called and said based on their test it's an internal break not the cooler. I'll tow it home Monday and take it from there .
How should I proceed ?
Do I just pull the cooler and change the O rings
Fill with oil and change filter ,Fill cooling system with new coolant and start it ?
Pull the water pump and look for pin holes .
Not sure where to start . What do you guys think ?

 

I flushed the suburban with fresh oil but there was enough water left in the cooler and galleys and condensation that it spun a bearing. these trucks have several quarts of oil in the hpop, cooler, rails and low spots that can hold a lot of water. just procede with caution. when the engine is running at normal temp close to 200 degrees it keeps most of the water evaporated, when it is cold the water separates out of the oil and goes to the lowest point, which is where the oil pick up is.