December Chat Thread
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 625
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Yeah, something tells me the choke doesn't work. With the engine off, it is open a crack. With it running and kicked down to a normal idle, it is only a sliver more open. And when it is hot and idling weird, it is still mostly closed. If I open it by hand, it starts to idle a bit higher, but a little rougher.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
On mine the wire runs to the back of the alternator. Have you tried setting it leaner? If you were getting voltage to it and it isn't opening it may be set too rich. Try going leaner with the engine cold until it just opens, then back richer just enough to close it. If it doesn't open pretty quickly then, you have some other issues with it,
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
BTW- I don't know what's so hard about locating this: AutoZone.com | Tubing Repair Kit.
I remember when you had to know something to work at an Auto Supply.
I remember when you had to know something to work at an Auto Supply.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
You might still want to pick one of those up. It will fix it back to original working order. If you look, you'll see it even includes the woven heat shielding sleeve, which in this case is to keep heat in. It's a small tube with a long way to go, without it air temp will vary the amount of heat delivered to the choke.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 625
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
I put the old insulation back on the new tube. I went out and hit the choke wire with a test light while running and it seems the wire is dead. Also, I took a pic of the choke showing how far it opens whilst idling. I was able to get the choke to hold itself fully open by pushing it there once, but when I hit the throttle it went back to the half closed position. It wouldn't hold itself full open but that one time.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,649
Likes: 2
AH HA- There ya go. That wire should have constant voltage when the engine is running. That's why mine is on the back of the alt. Trace that wire down and check the connectors on both ends. Look especially close at where the connectors have insulation on them. They have a nasty habit of breaking there, giving intermittent voltage that will drive you up the wall trying to locate. Wiggle the wire around at the connector, if it's broken it will bend real easy.
If you don't find any problems there, replace the whole wire. UMMN- well, you should probably check for voltage at the source end first. If you have voltage there and not at the choke.......
If you don't find any problems there, replace the whole wire. UMMN- well, you should probably check for voltage at the source end first. If you have voltage there and not at the choke.......
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 625
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Hmm. I went and tested the wire again, and it was hot. I reconnected it to the carb, and now apparently it is working. Ran fine, and when I got home the choke was open and it idled alright. 
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,971
Likes: 2
In his case, the starter got the flywheel.
He loaned the truck to someone, who for some reason over cranked the truck (i.e turned the key to cranking position when already running) and destroyed a section of the flywheel, and at the same time wore the starter bendix down.
And over time, it got worn down to the point where he couldn't start the truck at all.
He loaned the truck to someone, who for some reason over cranked the truck (i.e turned the key to cranking position when already running) and destroyed a section of the flywheel, and at the same time wore the starter bendix down.
And over time, it got worn down to the point where he couldn't start the truck at all.
