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I haven't gotten the dyno results yet but i have worked it out even more and found some thing very suprising. I took it on its first road trip from one side of Texas to the other. On the first rear tank i got 173 miles and the front tank got 144 miles and i had the cruise set at 75 and AFR was runnig 11.2-12.5 on avg. So on the side of I-20 in Sweetwater i decided to swap the fuel injector firing order from the 460 to 302HO. The idle quality is much better the AFR went to 12.2-13.5 and after playing with the PMS the AFR reads 13.9-14.6. On the way back the rear tank went 220 miles and front tank went 186 miles. That is a solid improvement and the truck runs so much better and where i marked my speed between the 2 signs i went a soild 70 mph in a 100 degree heat so i know its better. I will try to get to the dyno as soon as i can.
I am really looking forward to the dyno results. That being said, I am leaving my truck speed density just because it is a mud truck only-less stuff to get wet. I am however ordering the underdrive pulleys from Toyer and the BBK fuel pressure regulator and guage. Which AFR are you using? And have you tried any MAP sensor mods before the swap? Just curious. Thanks for the great info.
AFR pretty much stays between 14 & 15 and i didn't mess with the map sensor until after the swap. Next week i hope my brother sends me some 36# injectors as the stock 24's are working beyond 95%. then i will go to the dyno and dyno it with just MAF upgrade then with the tuned pms program and the with the 61mm throttle body. That will be my plans any way should have the final results in a week or so.
4 wheelin your truck tooks incredibly like mine when i had a 4" with 33x12.5s to be honest i am startin to think i would have been better off spendin my money like you did
Great Thread - I am in (slow) process of getting my 460 dyno calibrated. My local dyno tunner has talked me into re-flashing my ECM instead of adding a chip or programmer. I have an ECC-V OBD II processor. He is spendy though, he wants $400+ to dyno, tune, and reflash. $100 for 3 dyno pulls + set up. So before I spend the cash I have been adding all the mods. Just a few more to go, but I keep deciding to add more. I am like a crack addict
To date I have added: MSD 6AL Ignition, with Timing Controller, MSD Blaster Coil, MSD 8.8 Wires, BBK Fuel Pressure Regulator, BBK Dual 61mm Throttlebody, Banks Power Pack (Full Exhaust with Headers), K&N FIPK with custom fabbed cold-air divider, Pro-M 85mm MAF. What I want to add before the calibration is #36 Injectors, and Custom Intake Duct Work (to utilize larger MAF and Throttlebody), and underdrive pulleys.
Long term I would like to rebuild the motor with ported and polished heads, intake, and runners. Roller / Lifter valve train and an RV Cam. If I do that I will need to reflash again. A Vortech blower would be nice too
so 4 wheelin think we could get a final list of what you did what you think about all of it like what worked out best and the final dyno or 1/4 mile if you did either or....
this thread messes with my head because it makes me want to spend $ on the truck vs the bike
Well i am not quiet done yet i got my 36# injectors and calibration tube for the maf meter today. I will install them tomorrow and retune the PMS then i will be ready for the dyno as soon as there is a cool morning. After i get the results i will do a write up on what i have found with the dyno numbers. Should be some good info for some one to use and save them some money.
I found out today how much the programer is working out. Today i raced another chevy 2500 with a 6liter that is faster than the truck i raced 2 days ago. The first race i ran him with my tuned program and killed him from the start i jumped out a truck lenght pulled a good 2 lenghts on him and we finshed at 85mph and i was out at least 1 3/4 lenghts. The second race i ran him with no program just strait 460 with maf. I jumped out 1/2 a truck and by second gear he had caught me and started pulling on me hard i shut it down early by 3rd gear he was out 2 trucks and still going. I could not believe how much the pms had worked out so dyno day should be interesting. I can't wait
what does a pms tuner adjust im really curious since it does change from 2 lengths ahead to 2+ behind and are you running lean with the headers on and air horns/restrictors out and thats the reason for the injectors? think you'll team it up with a new ignition setup? your build has my mind racing on what i want to do i think this should be a sticky thread
The pms is the old school way of tuning a maf equiped mustang. It can change timing and fuel curves thru part throttle all the way to WOT. You can set the idle, start fuel, rev limiter and quiet a few other things. if you go to andersonford motor sports you can check it out there. The reason for the injectors is not only from the air horns and headers but every thing i have done so far. With not having away to monitor the injectors prior to what i did before the maf upgrade i have no way of knowing what percentage they where runnig at but im sure they where at 80%. At this time i have no intensions of upgrading the ignition other than the msd coil i put on it.
ok so let me see if i got this right- for speed density computer reads rich or lean then changes the % the injectors run at but then how does upping the fuel pressure not just have the computer back down the injectors -- if its preset not self correcting makes sense up the pressure computer doesn't reduce it down.
with maf it would do the same thing just not measuring the mixture the same too right? thats what the tuner changes?
-im trying to better understand tuning/ why you need it with fuel injection thats supposedly self corrects i always see it changing engines from 4cyls to 8s so drastically especially on modified motors, that and when new injectors help
not tryin to hi-jack just lean and didnt want to start a new thread thanks
This is not really the kind of thread for that question im not tring to be an a$$ but we would have to start a whole new topic tring to explain how efi works.
Your right but this is a great thread I know everyones thankful for ya puttin this log together of all your work can't wait to see your final dyno results
I cleaned my 36# injectors to new working order. They have been setting for the last 7 years waiting on me these are the same injectors i ran on my car way back in the 90's. I got them and the calibration tube installed. Then went for a test drive at WOT no tuning to the PMS with feul pressure set at 43psi. I couldn't believe when i seen the injector percentage hit max at 4000rpm and i still have the stock throttle body on. As the injectors are delivering more fuel i started changing the program i had for the 24# injectors. I got my AFR staying 13.5-14.6 but the injectors where still working at max at 4000rpm. They have made a difference with the 24's they would hit max around 3000rpm and the 36's are maxing out at 4000rpm. I bumped the fuel pressure up to 46psi but i have not drove it yet. The 36# injectors are doing a better job but i can't believe they aren't big enough a set of 42 pounders i think would be perfect. One thing we all know 460's love fuel and it's killing me.
well I got my Troyer underdrive pulleys and my adjustable fuel pressure regulator ready to install. I am looking into adjustable AFR's too. Do you think a speed density engine would benifit from the 36 pound injectors? And I an not sure what the calibration tube is either and would it be required for the injector swap? I am trying to keep my build simple and low budget, so no MAF swap for me. I am just trying to get the most out of the old mud truck.
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