When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sorry for not having the finnal numbers i have made 4 dyno appointments and had to cancel all of them just been too busy with work. Today was the first day i have really drove my truck other than just moving it in over a month. But i got it shining like a new dime i am going to make another apointment with the dyno next week so i can get you guys the finnal numbers.
I'll try posting some pictures later....i've tried in the past and it always kicks my butt.
But i will post the website i used if it'll help you guys any. Converting A Ford 2G to 3G Alternator
Their application was a little different than mine since they used their old harness. I'm telling ya, if you get the harness with the alternator from the junk yard, its a matter of removing the old harness and changing the plug end of the green wire on the new harness.....VERY SIMPLE. The 6awg wire goes back on your solenoid where your old one was attached (it also has a stock fuse in place) and the green wire with the "swapped" plug end, plugs right into the green wire where you old green wire plugged in, from which i understood it, the green wire goes to you're gauges. And of course, the other end of the harness plugs into the alternator with no changes. As for the modding of the frame....you'll figure that out as soon as you put the new alternator in. There's an angle on part of the frame that will hit the bottom corner of the alternator when you go to roll it into place. I took a grinder to that slight angle and was done with it in no time. If you have the time, i'd recommend taking out the whole framing (3 bolts, as i found it easier to work on and was able to do a little cleaning on my block right there. But it is a little more work trying to reach two inconveniently placed bolts.
Try that website for now, and i'll try later to get some pics posted of what the harness looks like, what my old and new alternator looks like and possibly the angle i ground down (I have to take it apart to get a pic of that).
Sorry for not having the finnal numbers i have made 4 dyno appointments and had to cancel all of them just been too busy with work. Today was the first day i have really drove my truck other than just moving it in over a month. But i got it shining like a new dime i am going to make another apointment with the dyno next week so i can get you guys the finnal numbers.
I see your sig line says the truck is gone, but did we ever get final numbers?!
Sorry to dig up this old thread, but I have a 460 that needs help.
Sorry every one i did not get the final numbers the dyno got hit by lighting and i sold the truck before they fixed it. I can tell you this i raced a coulpe chevy 6.0 trucks and beat them from 3-4 truck lenghts and i raced a Hemi truck and beat it by about 2 lenghts. I had a performance tune, a mileage tune, and tow tune and the mileage tune. I would get 14-15 on the hwy and i would get any where from 8-10 in town and some times worse as i drove the hell out of it. I have a 11K camper and i know for a fact fully loaded i could steadily run 90 mph down the hwy.
If i could do it all over again the only thing i would of changed beside keeping all my money since i sold the truck anyway. I would have raised the comppression a full point i think that would have made a big difference.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.