Hey 4wheeling79, I know you have been hunting, no worries. I hope you've bagged a booner ! We are definately patiently waiting on dyno results though. My truck already runs alot better after reading this thread. I love my troyer underdrive pulleys. I figure with the small mods done so far to the engine, I might have gained 30-50hp. Now my biggest problem is finding a better clutch. I replaced my stock ford clutch after numerous trips in the mud here in Florida. Well, my replacement clutch which was 12.25 HD replacement lasted me less than 1000 miles and 4 passes( 2 in the dirt and 2 in the mud).

Kurtis K, thanks much for your reply. I am definately going to do a 3G swap now ! Having 70 amps at idle seems like it can only help the ECU and the rest of the fuel management system. Plus, I am thinking of a few mods later down the road that would require a better charging system anyway like the Ford Taurus electric fan assembly swap, and an inline fuel pump for more fuel volume. All in time though.

Anybody have opinions on Power Hungry Performance? I am thinking of one of thier products later on down the road possibly. I told them of the mods on my truck. They told me everything I have done doesnt have any effect on the motor anyhow and the only thing that worries them is the fuel pressure be adjusted to 41 pounds.

Rich

 

4Wheeling79, not a problem regarding getting the info out. It's just great info above and beyond what’s already out there. I’m just patiently waiting for when you get the time.

MonsterTrucker, I have been running 41psi at the regulator for 3 years now and have not had any problems. It seems to be the sweet spot as I have tried adjusting the psi up and down and settled on 41 psi. The factory pressure range per the factory emissions manual for my 1988 7.5L is: Engine running 30-45 psi, Key On Engine Off - using pump test procedure (same as engine running, vacuum line removed on regulator) 35-45. So 41 psi is well within the factory specified range.

 

Awesome thread man!

 

Here is what I have learned from doing my own MAF conversion some of it is pretty basic and some of it is pretty in depth. If you don’t know your way around efi and not a good mechanic I would not take this on alone. This is not a junkyard put together but if some one can make it that away then go ahead and re-write this write up.

Things you will need to do a MAF conversion on SD efi 460
1. A9L ecm from a 89-93 stang if you have a standard tranny
2. A9P ecm from a 89-93 stang if you a C-6 or E4OD tranny
3. Mass air meter 4 wire pig tail these cost around 30-40 bucks
4. K&N cone type air filter that fits you maf meter
5. Mass air meter 80-90mm new 3-400 dollars check the stang forums you’ll find it cheaper
6. Fuel injector wire harness these is were it can get tricky I’m sure if you research it you can find how to build one each injector has to have its own wire from the injector to the ecm. Or you can call mass-air.com and order one from them maybe pricey though? Remember if you build one make sure you number the injectors.
7. E4OD tranny controller from baumann engineering at becontrols.com go ahead and spend the extra money for the tranny wire harness you will be better off cost just under 600 dollars to your door
8. Y pipe that fits your existing intake hoses back to your maf meter any good muffler shop can build you one
9. Oxygen sensor wire harness here again if you research it you can probably build one or order one from mass-air.com
10. Oxygen sensors and bungs 2 needed
11. PATIENCE

Take your existing ecm out and take the harness apart go to fordfuelinjection.com to see how if you don’t know already. Take note where pin 1 is and where pin 60 is.

Step 1
For all vehicles remove these pins if present one at a time tape them up and number them just in case you make a mistake
Pin 2
Pin 9
Pin 12
Pin 23
Pin 28
Pin 43
Pin 58
Pin 59

Step 2
For E4OD equipped vehicles’remove the following pins tape them up and number them you will need some of them for the tranny controler
Pin 19
Pin 32
Pin 38
Pin 41
Pin 42
Pin 52
Pin 53
Pin 55

Step 3
These locations must be moved
Pin #8 is moved to Pin location #19
Pin #11 is moved to Pin location #32
Pin #51 is moved to Pin location #38
For the mass air pig tail harness install these wires
Red Wire VPWR (main power) is to be spliced into pin #37
Black Wire PWR GND (main ground) is to be spliced into pin #40
Brown Wire MAF RTN (signal ground) is to be inserted into pin location #9
Blue Wire (signal) is to be inserted into pin location #50

Step 4
Install fuel injector wire harness you can use either the non HO 460 firing order or the 302 HO and 351 firing order ( I ran the non HO firing order first and then switched to the HO firing order made a big difference for me all around.)

Red Wire VPWR (main power) is to be spliced into location 57

302 HO and 351 firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 ( I would use this one)
Injector #1-Location 58
Injector #2-Location 59
Injector #3-Location 12
Injector #4-Location 13
Injector #5-Location 14
Injector #6-Location 15
Injector #7-Location 42
Injector #8-Location 52

302 Non HO & 460 firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Injector #1-Location 58
Injector #2-Location 59
Injector #3-Location 14
Injector #4-Location 42
Injector #5-Location 12
Injector #6-Location 15
Injector #7-Location 13
Injector #8-Location 52

Step 5
Oxygen sensor wire harness 86-1991 trucks use a 3 wire O2 sensor and 92 and on O2 sensors use a 4 wire sensor
Install your 2 new O2 sensors in exhaust pipe as close to the manifolds as possible on each side connect the new O2 harness up to where the original O2 sensor went and then connect the harness to the new O2 sensors.
Black Wire (O2 signal input) is to be inserted into pin location #43

Step 6
Modify the MAP sensor
Use your existing MAP sensor located on your fire wall disconnect the vacuum line from it leave that port open and plug the port at back of your intake it will now operate as a BAP sensor

Now if you have a C-6 or 5-speed tranny you can install the new MAF ecm and put the harness back together and go about building your ducting for the maf meter and cone type air filter there is a pic of mine on page 9 of this thread for comparison. The maf conversion is done for you.

Now for those of you who have a E4OD use the Baumann instructions to finish the install if you use there wire harness pig tail this procedure is pretty easy but if you want to try and save a little money you can splice the controller into your tranny. ( I would personally spend the extra cash) now you should have a maf equipped truck. Happy motoring

 

thanks again for sharing your hardwon info!

 

Hey thanks again for this thread. I've loved every step in this build up of your ford and wanting to do alot on the one I'm going to build for my pickup. Keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing the dyno numbers!

 

4wheelin79, This is very good info, thank you for taking your time to explain it to all of us, it is very much appreciated. I have access to a '95 F-150 302 mass air, would you recommend starting with this stock harness/ecm/maf meter ect.?

 

damn lol ive been reading this post from page one, and make it all this way, the only 2 things i can think of is 1, nice, love the work youve put into your truck, and 2,need dyno results bad lol, the suspense is driving me nuts now lol

 

This is some great info man on Mass air conversions but if i may let me add some info for you guys from what i learned tuning my mustang race car. Always use either fords MAF meters "90 mm" lighting maf`s" or SCT Maf`s for you poweradder guys.Youll be glad you did!! The reason i say this is the ford ECM`s reads what injector size you have not the wives tale of matching your injectors to your MAF!! Doing it the latter way is the aftermarket Maf companys way of TRICKING the ECM into thinking it has larger injectors.By doing this the ecm has a hard time reading the correct LOAD ,injector pulse width ,etc thus screwing up the fuel and spark tables in the ECM. This is why you need an aftermarket tuner EVERYTIME you make a aftermarket change to your ECM or engine. I recommend the Quarterhorse tuner from Moates www.moates.net and the software from Clint Garrity BE and EA which stands for Binary editor and eec analyzer www.eecanalyzer.net . Also get a wideband O2 setup for getting your air/fuel ratios correct. Trying to tune a mass air motor without a WBO2 setup is like trying to **** in the wind!! With this setup you can change ANY parameter in your ECM and your vehicle becomes the DYNO "tuning on the fly" or real time tuning. Also with this setup you can turn off the adaptive strategy in your ECM. Adaptive strategy is your ECM`s ability to relearn your driving habits and eventually return your ECM to its stock settings. This is why when you change fuel pressure and initial timing its just a waste of time. The Anderson PMS cannot do this important feature and the PMS is about 3 times the cost. Also if the correct ECM is selected you can make changes to your Auto tranny. I like the ECM`s out of the SN 94-95 mustangs. it has a faster processor than the 87-93 ECM`s and can be tuned very simply. Youll read where the 87-93 ECM`s are better but that is just a bunch of Bull.
One last thing i would like to add is NOT to have your open air filter in the path of air coming off the fan. This will alter how your MAF meter reads the air "turbulence" causing the ECM to incorrectly adjust the fuel and spark tables. One last site for tuning the ford ECM is www.eectuning.org .
Tuning your ECM is a steep learning curve but there is much help on the internet to get you quickly going. Its very satisfying knowing how to tune your own vehicle and will save you mucho bucks on going to dynos and ripoff tuners. I consider my quarterhorse tuner the best tool i have in my arsenal. Hope this helps you guys

BigLar

 

i would also like to add that he ford ECM is really a brilliant piece of technology. It was developed by ford engineers and the Intel Corp and totally runs on 5 volts meaning since your vehcle is a 12 v system it will not effect your ECM inless of course your only putting out 5 v ). Now who do you think has more money for development ford? or FAST, BIGSTUFF3, Anderson PMS??? besides FAST and BIGSTUFF3 are SD systems for high horsepower applications .
just my .02 cents

BigLar

 

I have learned so much from reading all the posts. i was wondering what type of vehicle, make, model and year i can find a 3g alternator from.
i think it might make my headlights a little brighter or even help the whole truck run better........
thank you very much for the help

 

I Know that the 95 mustang has the 130 amp alt if that is a 3g alt?. I believe some of the tauraus`s had them also. I just read where someone posted this info and i believe its on here. Try and do a search on 3G alts on here

BigLar

 

Subscribing to this thread.

I have a 1994 F-350 and have done a MAF conversion. I used IST and the Baumann trany controller. I have been running it since last summer 2009 (mine was probably one of the 2 that Steve was building). I have been getting lean codes all along. I have the Banks Powerpack system - complete. Sitting in my garage is a fresh engine from Cars by Carl. By the way, Carl was awesome to work with. Carl spec'd it out as having 385 hp and 510 ft lbs torque. I still need a few things to do the install (plus warmer weather). One thing I did not think about was the torque converter - I need to order a new one that will handle the extra torque. When I install my engine I will also install a Wideband O2 sensor (still in the box). I love the improvements and I hope I will love them even more when the new engine is installed. I don't know of any dyno's in my area so getting numbers posted will not be possible. But I am encouraged by the improvements that are posted here.
Anyway, I thought I would give my .02 worth.
PS, I have 30 lb. injectors to go with the new engine.

 

hey 4wheeling79 i think everyone has enjoyed your thread including myself. any updates? i also recently tried the bbk TB, i did notice a few things, #1. it felt like it had a little more power ( not enough to justify #2), #2. it dropped my gas milage from an economical 10-11 mpg to around 7-8 mpg. and #3. no matter what i did, i couldnt get it to idle below 1000 rpm without having a dead spot as soon as you touched the pedal. needless to say i put the stock TB back on for now. maybe after some exhaust work it might be worth trying again. my truck is pretty much stock except for a k&n fipk kit and 3 inch tailpipe.

 

Been loving the thread thus far....... I myself finally got around to the 3g Alternator upgrade. Gotta say, its well worth it and a world of difference since i already had under-drive pulleys (also worth it). I haven't tried it out on the highway or hills to notice any power change, but i'll let ya know after i do. For those looking to try this upgrade, the change was pretty easy, as long as you get the wiring harness off of the donor vehicle. The only two major things i had to change was the plug end of the green Gen Light wire on the harness, and a little grinding on the bracket to get the alternator all the way in there without hitting. For the top top bolt, since the 3g isn't threaded, i just ran a 3/8's bolt through it with a nut and lock washer on the back.