hey guys I've been reading this thread for about 2 weeks now and just finally joined today so I can post.This is an awesome thread and I was glad to see so many people interested in these years trucks as they are imo the best looking trucks ever made (92-97).ive had my '97 f-250 H.D. 351 ZF 5sp for 9 years now virtually trouble free and won many 2nd, 3rd and a few 1sts at the local truck pulls(popular in NW PA) in fields of as many as 38 trucks, in the bone stock class. This truck has hauled/towed enough to probably build NY city over again with 140K on it and still going strong drive it everyday.Last fall I finally found its big brother. '96 f-350 460efi ZF 5sp regular cab 4x4 ( of coarse) xlt black ( like little brother) 60 straight front 68k-beautiful-$8k.Bought it on the spot & drove it home!heres the problem: underpowered.i tow a skid steer + attachments on trailer grossing about 12,000.I think that side by side with the same load behind them the small block would get to the top of the hill first!couldn't believe the first time I put the trailer behind the big block it was sick.I turn the small block @ 5,500 in third up hills.The big block should have the torque down low to not need the r's but I found out quickly that it shuts down @ 3,800!The cu in-to hp/tq ratio is way off it seems on these 460 efi's. I am disappointed to say the least that the big-bad 460 ford is a slug. I do however have faith in the potential for this motor and thats how I stumbled on this thread.i have already learned alot here and my first question is this: last week I was at local garage/ bone yard getting headlight switch( I'm sure u all know about the famous ford head light switch problem). I,de just been reading all this info here about mass air conv. & low and behold the f-150 i was liberating from was a 302 mass air! should i get this truck or buy "kit" or find mustang set-up? I hope this thread continues til we all understand this issue & get these 460's runnin like they should!

 

BTW wheres the 4wheelin79 guy been with the dyno results, hunting? been following his build as I'm sure a lot of u are, and can't wait to see results, so I have some direction. Thought I was the only one that wants more from these engines but I guess I'm not alone. After all it is a big country and would never have known these things w/o the internet. A person could spend a life time trying to gather this much information w/o a forum like this so that guys can learn from each other instead of each of us "poking in the dark". I just feel humbled at the knowledge that some of you guys have and guilty at the same time that u have spent the time, effort & money for the rest of us to learn, but I guess that someone has to cut the trail, right? If I have any info I can inject at any time about these trucks i will and try to return the favor, as I have had many Fords and know many of their unique characteristics.I'd rather look through the hole in the floor while driving an old rotted Ford, than be caught dead riding in a brand new chevy!

 

welcome to FTE it really is a great site but for your question your better off startin a new thread instead of taggin onto this one. just go to the list of threads under this section (87-96 F150 and bigger) and click the start new thread link

not to thread jack but for your question sounds like your 460 needs a tune up its not running right

4wheelin still cant wait to see your results

 

why do you think it needs a tune up? just curios.Also sorry im long winded, first time posting but my question is about the 302 mass air conv.

 

sorry again (new to this) I meant converting 460 s.d. to mass air using factoty 302 mass air? should I still start a new thread?

 

yes you should

 

460 is a towing machine if it feels like its not towing great or a slug somethings usually outta wack. check your timing (10btdc), plugs, wires, distributor cap

mass air will give no improvement just allow for more substantial modification (like a big cam) so if your not looking to go big on your modifications i would do headers and exhaust first

 

I have to subscribe to this thread...couldn't live with myself if I don't see the dyno results. I'm going to do about the same thing with my '97. Just a little more cam, Cali MAF conversion, forgo the porting but add the Vortec to make up for it on the top end. As soon as I can free up $$$ from that pesky thing called daily life

 

aww man no dyno results!
4wheelin do you think that could write up some prelim thoughts on doing a conversion from a junkyard?

 

i just swapped in the BBK pressure regulator on my truck. This took me a week longer than I wanted. I went to swap mine last week, only to find I had a 3 screw regulator instead of a 2 screw. Come to find out, I have a 460 Ford VAN fuel rail ! I think its something to do with a recall on the engine.
So I installed my regulator today. When I fired it up, the guage read 39 pounds. to adjust the regulator, they say remove and plug the vacuum line. So do I plug the vacuum nipple on the regulator, or plug the vacuum line inself?

Rich

 

I believe it is the line, as this simulates WOT, I believe. The line will be covered to prevent a vaccum loss and the rgulator won't have vaccum on it to simulate wide open throttle.

 

well, I played with the truck tonight before I got online. I adjusted the regulator w/o disconnecting the vacuum line and set it at 41 pounds. Ran awesome ! I took it to the gas station for a fill up. Spun the 44s leaving the gas station . It had all kinds of ***** ! But when I pulled in the driveway, I noticed a bad miss . Plus it back fired twice while on my test run. So, I figured I might have adjusted it wrong, and should have stuck to the directions. So, I read your reply and said "that makes sense". Now when I try to adjust it, it goes all crazy and leaks gas ! I adjust the center nut to 41 pounds, then when I tighten the lock nut, it goes bouncing around 60 pounds and leaking gas out of the vacuum hose nipple. I hope I didnt trash the regulator. I am supposed to race on sunday.

Rich

 

I'd have no idea why would change setting the lock nut other than it moves a little. I'm assuming you would notice if that was happening and would use a open wrench to tighten while holding with a allen wrench, so possibly the gasket on the base (between the regulator and the rail) is bad or the diaphram inside is bad.

I bought a supposedly almost brand new aeromotive one on ebay for $50 and it made no change with the vaccum line on or off. Bought a $35 rebuild kit from Summit and that took care of it. Running a lot better, but allowed to find out the rear fuel pump doesn't pump as much pressure and it now stumbles a little on that tank. Replacing both pumps in near future.

 

First, I want to apologize to anyone who subscribed to this thread waiting for 4Wheeling79 to post the final dyno numbers. I read through this post tonight and was eagerly awaiting the last page to see the numbers myself, but, not as yet.

I wanted to comment on a post MonsterTrucker made back on September 1st last year about adding the 3G alternator and if anyone saw a power improvement. For myself, yes I did. I did not see any other posts regarding this so I will add my two cents worth.

My stock alternator went out just over a year ago and I wanted something that put out more amps at idle. I use a truck camper and dry camp so I need to idle the truck to recharge the camper’s battery when it runs low. The stock alternator required running the engine at a higher rpm to really get anything out so I generally had to sit there or find something to put on the gas pedal.

I installed a new 3G alternator and wiring kit (from RJMinjectiontech.com) rather than go the junkyard route. The new 3G alternator installed in about an hour or two and works great. I did drill out and tap the top mounting hole on the 3G alternator to use the stock mounting bolt rather than use the M8 bolt supplied or a nut and bolt. I did not have to modify the mounting bracket as shown in the website installation instructions as I believe this shows a car installation.

After checking out the installation for correct operation, the truck was parked for several days. Later in the week, I drove the truck for the first time after installing the 3G alternator and I was pleasantly surprised with a power improvement. The truck ran better and had improved throttle response along with a noticeable power increase. I did not find out how much till a few months later.

I camp a couple times a year at the same two campsites that both have long and steep grades to get up. The previous two years always had me going up in second gear at 40 mph. It would hold it but it would struggle at times. This last year on the same grades with no other mod’s but adding the 3G alternator had me going up in third gear at 50 mph. I could have gone faster but held back due to others in the group having to travel slower.

I thought the same thing you are now is that the old alternator was bad, or the old alternator wiring was fried (which happens with the 2G alternators), or the power feed connections to the truck were dirty. But this was not the case. So I checked to see if I could find a reason for this power improvement.

I took the old alternator in and had it tested, well within spec’s. I checked and ohm’ed out the old alternator wiring harness, it looked and was still in great shape. The power feed connections to the truck were all clean and were used with the new 3G as is. I could not find anything that would point to the power increase other than the ridiculously small power feed wire from the old 2G alternator to the starter solenoid being too small and dropping power. I cannot believe Ford engineers used such a small gauge for supply power but who are we to say…

Long story short, adding the 3G did give me a power boost as Monster Truck’s friend said he got when he added the 3G to his truck. Possibly adding a larger gauge wire to the existing 2G alternator would help in the same way but I am happy with what I have now and will not go back. I have done other power mod’s following along the same lines as the MPG article and nothing came as close except for the cdi igniton which gave a nice power punch at the lower end.

 

I'm sorry that i have kept every one waiting for the results. In the past 2 months i haven't done any thing to my truck except drive it back and forth hunting. I was surprised on one cold day when i started it that it would not run and i had to change the fuel mapping so it would run it the cold. I had hoped for a supercharger by now but that hope is gone as i bought a tractor instead. But i am thinking about putting some nos on it instead. I raced a dodge diesel with a 70hp programmer and of corse he pulled hard on me if i had a 100 shot on it things would have been alot different.

When i get back next week i will get my oil changed and replace my rear fuel pump that went out (wish there was a high volume pump that i could use) any body know of one thats a bolt on? After i do this i will get back on the dyno and get you guys some results. As for the maf kit i have not figured out how to build a total one from scratch with out buying a few things. I will get all my notes out and get what i know out to every one. Once again sorry for the delay but i did give fair warning on hunting season.