I did some research and pulled a few relevant threads about steering wander and how to tackle the problem, and have posted the links below.

This is not inclusive of all the threads covering the problem, as they've been posted here on the forum, but there are more than enough threads to familiarize people with the steering wander problem afflicting the 4x4 Excursions.

For people reading, pay attention to Joe's posts (X_Hemi_Guy) because he covers a lot of stuff some people may not think about.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/518774-vcode-b-code-upgrade-finished.html <~~My thread with part numbers

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/714323-wander-suspension-beat-the-dead-horse.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/715885-f250-springs-on-excursion.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/699070-v-b-code-spring-mod.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/695327-roadmaster-active-suspension-vs-landyot.html <~~RAS and Landyots RR

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/689374-calling-all-suspension-experts-re-wander-towing-v-b-code-spring-conversion-etc.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/619325-excursion-sway-f250-springs.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/604469-steering-wander-improvements.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/614584-towing-wander-what-next.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ent-chart.html

Just a few more threads to round out the info. One thread addresses a lift kit that uses replacement springs.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...g-my-boat.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-handling.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...nder-alot.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...r-springs.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...tion-bars.html <~~After reading the first few posts about the traction bars, make sure to read all the way to post number 73. The bars broke.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ay-wander.html <~~The lift thread

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ap-trials.html <~~Ford part numbers for the end-link sway bar bushings.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8834116 <~~Lots of good info throughout the thread, but pay attention to post #66 if you have no other mechanical issues.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10426510 <~~A before and after impression on the upgrades done by the Ponz.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10774853 <~~Sean "wpnaes" spring install thread with pictures.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rformance.html <~~Rich "White Buffalo" suspension thread and pictorial.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11391676 <~~Robert L Ross' step-by-step with pictures.
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Ok, here is a huge EDIT to add a long list of tips, hints, and installation help for anyone doing this mod:

• Remove the front bumper to access the front spring-eye bolts. Anything less makes it more work for you to get to those bolts.
• Unbolt rear A/C lines to be able to remove bolt in rear spring on passenger side.
• Don't reuse U-bolts. They are not intended to be reused.
• U-bolts can be custom made to length by a good spring shop for about 1/2 the cost of the dealer.
• For the front U-bolts, use the same length as the factory ones.
• For the rear U-bolts, if you're going with a Modified B Code, have them made 1" longer than the OEM's to accommodate the two extra springs as well as the 1/8 spacers used from the Ex spring pack.
• Don't forget new center pins for the rear springs if doing a Modded B code.
• The 30 mm swaybar off of a Super Duty is much better than the stock ones if your Excursion came with one.
• A Hellwig rear sway bar is as good as the Super Duty bar.
• Don't forget to get new sway bar bushings for the front as well
• Do not purchase cheaper aftermarket springs. They are not made to the same specifications. (This one is very subjective, given the different shops throughout the US)
• If you don't have access to a lift, use jack stands rated high enough to handle the weight of the Excursion, and big enough to place the Ex high enough to allow floor jacks to be used to maneuver and manipulate the springs under the Ex.
• Speaking of floor jacks, make sure you have at least two. Trust me, having at least two of them makes life extremely easier.
• After unbolting the springs, using a homemade cheater bar or crow bar to flip the spring over and slide the springs off of the axle upside down to make it easier for you.
• Use a floor jack under the axle when installing the springs. It makes it a lot easier to manipulate the axle into position to line up the springs to the mounting point.
• Use another jack to push the front spring-eye into alignment.
• Same advice with the rear spring-eye. Hit the shackle with a hammer to align easier.
• Hit and turn the shackle bolts when installing. They have a pointed end to make alignment easier.
• Install the front shackle bolts in the opposite direction they came out. That way you won't need to remove the A/C support next time.
• Clean and paint everything before you bolt it all back together.
• Bring a friend and share a few brews during the day-long event.
• Unbolt the front driveshaft to get the driver's side (front) rear spring-eye bolt out.
• Another option for removing the driver's side rear spring-eye bolt is to jack the axle and spring up. This allows you to push the bolt out OVER the driveshaft without any problems. Most seem to want to take it out by going under the driveshaft.
• Take your time and use ratchet straps in conjunction with a jack to get the axle in position to get the center pin lined up. It's a lot easier than trying to muscle it around and it can be done in slow motion instead of bursts of strength.
• Use a propane torch or similar to heat up the spring-to-frame and spring-to-shackle nuts. It makes it much easier to get them off since they use Loctite during assembly.
• Have a fire extinguisher handy if you use a propane torch or other open flame.
• Use PB Blaster to loosen nuts up. Apply it in the days leading up to the job.
• Be careful using an open flame if you used PB Blaster.
• Regarding Modified B codes, use C-clamps when disassembling the spring packs and reassembling them, to make it easier to get the center spring pack bolts off and on.
• Have a step bit to open up the top plates on the modified B codes to allow the center spring pack bolt to fit through. You don't have to grind the nut down and ruin it.
• Use something to make sure the axle doesn't get too close to the ground and bend the brake shields. 4x4 scraps work great, so do extra jack stands.
• Verify you have the right torque specs before starting and a torque wrench that goes to 200ft/lbs.
• If you get a B Code spring with the top overload, remove the top overload leaf and the 1" block from the new rear B codes to avoid crushing rear A/C lines.
• You can disconnect front & rear sway bar ends/links to make moving the axles easier, if you choose.
• Snug down the U-bolt nuts and spring bolts only, until the full weight of the Excursion is on the axle. Once the full weight of the Ex is on the axle, tighten down all the bolts to torque specs.
• Take height measurements of the Excursion (front left & front right, rear left & rear right) from the bottom center lip of the wheel-well to the center of the wheel hub and record them before you start. Then after the install, take new measurements from the same points.

Bullet List compiled by:
Stewart_H; broncorif; Hunter,DDS; white Buffalo; wpnaes; Nicmike; robert_l_ross; Red Ex; Skinsfan6; WE3ZS;

Big thanks for contributing, guys! Scoobie Snacks for all!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------General Info
There is a two-character spring code on the vehicle certification sticker on the lower doorpost behind the driver's door. The first character is the front spring code, and the second character is the rear spring code. A common spring code for a CrewCab 4x4 would be VB. The V means 5,200 pounds front springs, and the B usually means the rear springs on an F-350 SRW. However, some F-250s also have code B rear springs.

Any pickup can have any available front spring code - depending on options, and it doesn't matter whether F-250, F-350 SRW or F-350 DRW. Here are the spring codes for the front leaf springs on '99 thru '04 PSD 4x4 pickups:

T = 4,400 pounds @ground
U = 4,800
V = 5,200
W = 5,600 (rare on a pickup)
X = 6,000 (only with snow-plow pkg on a pickup)

Rear spring codes:
A = F-250 & Excursion (6,084 pounds @ground)
B = F-350 SRW (6,830 pounds @ground)
C = F-350 DRW (8,250 pounds @ground)

If you already have code B rear springs, then you already have the same rear springs that are on F-350 SRWs.

If you have Code U or V front springs, then you might like the code X front springs. In addition to giving you a little more weight capacity on the front end, they will give you a one to two inch lift of the front end.

If you wanted to really beef up the springs on your F-250, then put the code X front springs and the code C rear springs on it (they should bolt on). But be warned it will then ride "like a truck".

BTW, NEVER change leaf springs without replacing all the U bolts with brand new U bolts.

Edit to add the quote below:
​​​​​​​

Stewart

keywords: steering, steering wander, steering box, adjusting, adjustment, suspension, roadmaster active suspension, RAS, V code, B Code, spring, springs, spring swap, stabilizer, shock, shocks, Bilstein, Bilsteins, Rancho, Ranchos, tire, tires, inflate, inflation, PSI, towing, radius rods, Landyot, hellwig, sway, sway bar, bags, air bags, firestone.

 

Stewart,

Great thinking...we do seem to cover this topic more than a few times don't we!

Thanks for the kind words too!

One thread that I seem to link to a bunch relates specifically to steering box tightening. I know it is in one of the links above...but it may be easier to post the link here.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...-steering.html

Not knowing whether folks will be towing or not with their Ex while experiencing 'wander'

I've read a bunch on this topic...and have probably written some too...

It is VERY apparent that no ONE issue can be completely tagged as causing wandering.

There are a number of factors that CAN contribute to why one Ex is percieved as bad over others that have NO indication what so ever from a handling/wander/sway perspective that is...

In no particular order here's what I feel are some of the major contributors and many of these are needed in combination I believe...

- Rear springs
- Tire pressure
- Ball joints
- Tie rod ends
- Sway bar bushings
- Lack of rear sway bar
- Shocks
- Improper WD setup
- Lack of WD
- D range tires
- Driver sensitivity (i.e. one is more sensitive to the issue?)
- Steering box
- Front end alignment (i.e. CASTER in particular has a HUGE spec range!!!) from factory
- Driving speed
- Terrain
- Weather (wind)
- Road conditions
- Driver habits
- Trailer loading (i.e. light tongue)

As you can see there are a LOT of items that CAN contribute to sway and some are a combination of items...so diagnosing the issue can be VERY VERY difficult for sure.

Although I think the term can be over used and misunderstood as well. A poor handling Tow Vehicle (TV) ANY TV can usually be traced to an IMPROPERLY set up WD system and that includes too little tongue weight. Many simply have never been to a scale to properly verify the weights they are dealing with or the WD application thru the spring bars they are using. And unfortunately with the Ex an already easy target due to the 'wander' issue all over our forum...many go down that path possibly too quickly whereas they should likely go to a scale and verify their WD setup.

Now the 'wander' for unloaded vehicles simply driving down the road...well that may be more driver sensitivity or more possibly the combination of tire pressure (i.e. too high) and a poorly designed steering box...but those ball joints are also a KNOWN problem on our trucks which certainly can cause front end stability issues that cause constant steering corrections which can be called 'wander'.

So I truly believe that the 'wander' issue is a VERY complex and mostly misunderstood issue. Not saying it isn't real...I think it IS a real phenom...I just think that when one person speaks of 'wander' it is likely not what another person is calling 'wander' which further complicates the issue.

My $0.02 for today!

I'll see if I have any more threads bookmarked on my other computer tomorrow.

I've marked this thread for future reference...perhaps other threads that folks have found useful can be placed here and then this thread placed in the tech folder?

Joe.

 

Excellent! Thanks Joe!

Stewart

PS - I tried again! Still getting that stupid "Spread some points around" notification!

 

Maybe we could get one of these posts (or a new revised, all-inclusive post) placed in the Excursion Tech Folder.

 

I got your back Reps sent Joe.
Stewart, I gotta spread 'em around before I can get you.

 

Thanks guys...I gotta spread some too before I can show either of you some forum kudos again!!! hehe

 

Thanks for trying!

Stewart

 

I know this is old, but Dup you were considering larger tires. I would advise you to fix the "wander" before you add another variable like new tires. A lot of people have noted that the larger 285/16 tend to make the Ex a little more squirrelly.

 

Yeah man, I saw it....I am still reading...(Slow reader) Before I forget, thanks a lot man this stuff is great....I did a search and didn't find what you did...You know how these noobs are...
I am still trying to figure out my situation...I had the front end aligned and checked from top to bottom and everything checked out fine...I did the steering box adjustment and nothing so I put it back where it was...I put a set of Michelins on and that really made my ride better but I still have the wander...BTW, I am running 65 LBs in rear and 55 lbs in the front....My next step is going to be a Hellwig or Bilsteins...Not sure what order to go in...I only want to do one thing at a time...Thanks again to all expecially Stewart...I am still lurking so post on...

 

Didn't cure mine. What camber specs did they use when you had it aligned?

 

 

That is the sheet they gave me....

Can someone please explain to me how the Hellwig works on the rear when my wander is in the front...Dumb question I know but I really don't know...

 

Dup,

See my post above about the term 'wander' and what it may or may not mean.

But to answer your direct question.

Ford in an attempt to soften out the ride on our Ex's used a fairly soft spring pack front and rear. That is the primary issue us as Ex owners fight. Most automotive shops simply do not understand the Ex. It is a low volume vehicle that many shops have never seen before. But the rear of our Ex's if you look under there you will see a leaf spring on the bottom of the spring pack shooting forward by itself with a rubber snubber on the end...this is a half done attempt at controlling axle wrap. Axle wrap is something inherent in ALL leaf sprung vehicles.

Ford's solution attacks wrap ONLY due to acceleration conditions.

there are many situations where that 1/2 done fix just doesn't do enough.

The Hellwig helps to eliminate body roll from this high center of gravity SUV. Body roll also imparts forces on those rear leaf springs as the center of gravity shifts due to roll...thus contributing to axle wrap.

As that rear leaf pack wraps...it misaligns the rear axle and points it off on an angle versus straight in line with the front axle...as the rear axle 'steers'...you have to correct the front to compenstate for that...hence the feeling of constant wander.

A rear sway bar is one part of the equation to a stable Ex.

I've outlined a number of them above.

My gut tells me there really are a couple...and tires and tire pressures are high on my suspicion list as is the front camber/caster alignment.

Joe.

 

Couldn't have said it better myself.. Thanks man...That made some sense...But basically what you are telling me is to play with tire pressure and camber/caster before I do the Hellwig?

 

First...I notice you have Michelins...I've had a buddy that had a solid TV with Firestone SteelTex's and put Michelin LTX's on and the handling went to crud...

So yeah...I'd play with your tire pressures first. I'd drop them down to the minimum per the door sticker (45 front and 50 rear if i remember right). I know I know...BUT E range tires at those pressures WILL CARRY GAWR's on our truck...if you don't believe it...check out tire load charts.

Take it for a ride...it will likely feel squishy...but give it a try.

Then I'd slowly up the rear by 5psi independent of front. Meaning up the rear to 55 and leave the front at 45 and test drive. Then do the rear to 60 and leave the front at 45, etc...go up to 80 psi max.

Next hold the rear constant and vary the front by 5psi and see how you like it.

Finally vary both but in independent steps. Meaning go back to 45/50 (or whatever the door sticker says). Next go the rear to 55 with front at 50. Then go rear at 60 with front at 50...then the rear at 60 with front at 55...in these steps all the way up to both front and rear at 80 (if needed).

Keep good notes...make a table of all the combos and RANK the handling. This will be a lot of data and you can get easily confused so write it down.

On the camber/caster...YES...I would suggest having an adjustable shim placed on the front of your Ex that allows the shop to vary the camber and caster. Get as much positive caster while keeping the camber in spec but on the positive side. The factor shims are not adjustable. I had a good front end shop install a set for me with parts, labor and alignment for $150. The spec on the caster is HUGE...

Part of my suspicion is that factor pre-sets vary enough plus tire pressures are all over the map...contributing to one Ex being rock solid and another being loose.

Also the steering box can be a major contributor if you have lots of play...you are actually overcompensating with steering before the Ex actually reacts...

It really is a COMPLEX issue to get a handle on...I'll give you that.

If when you had your front end aligned...they inspected the tie rods and ball joints and they are okay...I'd tighten up your steering a little if there appears to be lots of play before the wheels start moving...

Just some thoughts.

I wish you were closer so I could take a look for you.

Also...I hope someone else can comment on your alignment numbers...don't want that to get overlooked...

Joe.