Hey guys, sorry. I've been out enjoying my NEW ride..

Ok in short I added
Front:
V codes
Icon 3.5 Hanger/Shackle Kit
Bash Bar
Dual Bilsteins
Adjustable track bar that I'm not sure I'm tracking right yet (Input?)
Dual Bilstein steering stabilizers
Extended endlinks

Rear:
B codes Modded
4" Tapered 3" wide steel blocks
Bilsteins
F350 sway bar w/extended end links
Suspension bushings on the Sway, the OEM were soft.

I'll post part numbers from Ford for all the parts, right down to the U-bolts and nuts for the F350 sway... LOL

The truck rides like a completely different truck. I haven't towed yet but this weekend I might hook up my 27' Hauler and see how she is @ 65.

Any advice on the Track bar?



http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/c5...rd%20Excursion

 

Let me tell you, picking out rims is a B!@#$! There are so many to choose from that I get a headache searching Ebay... LOL

I was looking at 18" Rockstars with the Toyo Open Country M/T 35" Tires but my buddies are scaring me with the obvious issues, MPG & Ride. Those 10Plys will hum and will slow me down from what they're telling me... Any input on the wheel setup? Anyone?

 

Here are the ICON track bar instructions that Cary (OBSWIZ) sent me when I did my install. The key is to roll the vehicle 10' foward then 10' back to allow the suspension to settle. Do you hear any cluncking when you turn?

1. Check to make sure you have the correct Pan-Rod Bar.

2.

3. Remove factory Pan-rod bar. Note the proper location of each factory bolt and nut and set
aside for later use during reinstallation.
4. With the stock pan-rod bar removed, the truck must be at static ride height to install the new
pan-rod bar. To ensure static ride height, back the truck up 10 feet and move forward 10 feet.
5.

6. Remove bushings and sleeves from the supplied hardware kit and install two bushings and
one sleeve per rod end.
7. Your adjustable pan rod bar has right hand and left hand threads. Adjust the new

8. Test-fit the pan-rod bar to ensure proper hole alignment.
9. Install the pan-rod bar into the appropriate mounting locations using the stock bolts and nuts.
Be sure to use

RETORQUE ALL NUTS, BOLTS AND LUGS AFTER 100 MILES AND PERIODICALLY THEREAFTER.

 

I went through that pain like many others, just too many options. Gave me a headache so I drank some beer and put it away for a few days. Picked up the stack of papers a few days later and did some more research. This continuous loop went on for a few months. You are right - what a PITA! It's alot of $ and you don't want to make a mistake.

The 3 main criteria I found for rims where:

<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>4.5" Back Spacing on the rims to prevent rubbing
8x70mm bolt patter on rims
Min rating of 3000lbs rating on rims, higher is better.

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
This Toyo tire application worksheet helped me out alot along with tirerack.com in selecting tire size.


http://toyotires.com/print/tires/suv...k/full/OPAT/95

 

Ford Parts
V Code
2C3Z-5310-HA $196.33

B Code
3C3Z-5560-CB $246.83
Longer Leaf center bolt and U-bolts purchased locally.

Rear 30MM Sway Bar (For all the X's without a sway bar)
F81Z-5A772-AA Rear F350 Sway Bar - $130.05
W520113-S441 Sway bar Nuts (4x) $12.75 ea.
1C3Z-5705-AA U-bolts (2x) $18.70 ea.
7C3Z-5B498-A Bracket-Stab (2x) $7.78 ea.
F81Z-5486-BA Retainer (2x) $14.28

Rear Parking Sensor for who might need one.
1L1Z-15K859-AA Rear Park Sensor $127.14 ea.

Any Off Road Parts 1-888-205-1915
Icon 3" Front Lift
33099 3" Hanger Kit (Front)
33050 Bash Bar
33600 Sway Bar End Links (for use with lift blocks)

Sky Jacker front extended end links for the factory front sway bar.

Custom Trac Bar from Cudadart (Ebayer)

TopGun Customs 1-877-274-9362 (Ebayer)
Dual Bilstein Steer Stabilizer w/TopGunCustom's Axle Bracket
4" Rear Tapered - 3" wide Blocks
Dual Front Shock Mount - 439210
Dual Front Bilstein Shocks 4-6" lift (4x) 33-104645
Rear Bilsteins 3-5" lift (2x) 33-151656

To assist with my stubborn bolts I used a 3' - 2" black pipe, on the breaker bar for leverage and lots of PB. All the bolts loosened up with ease after PB'd except the two AC line bolts that snapped. I just used two self-taping screws and sprayed them black.

For the front passenger side frame/shackle bolt, blocked by the Exhaust Y-Pipe, I cut a small section out and completed the install. After completing, I purchased (2x) 3" exhaust pipe couplers and (4x) 3" exhaust claps for a temp fix. The exhaust manifold bolts started to tweak/snap and the weld in was a lot less expensive than having the manifold replaced or tapped and rethreaded for new bolts... Since I was having the repair, I added in a less restrictive Y-pipe mod, purchased on Ebay. It eliminates those two small exhaust chokes in the Y pipe, allowing more ehaust flow. I noticed a 2-mpg increase from this Y-pipe mod, for all that care about MPG. ($80 off ebay)

(Looking at this picture, the Head of the blocked bolt is just left of the letters RPN stamped on leaf spring.)
http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/c5...rd%20Excursion


-----------------------------------------------------------------------

A SPECIAL THANKS TO (CARY) CT PERFORMANCE, WHITE BUFFALO, ROBERT_I_ROSS & WPNAES FOR ALL YOUR TIME & INPUT.
YOU GUYS MADE MY SWAP A WALK IN THE PARK!!
CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH!

I also have to thank my "red solo cup, I fill you up, let's have a party, let's have a party". Without you my friend, I wouldn't have made it to the end...

LOL, for all of you that don't know the Red Solo Cup. (watch the video link below)
Toby Keith - Red Solo Cup Video
</EMBED>

 

What size u-bolts and center leaf spring pack bolts are needed for the modified B code springs? Thanks.

 

Since you asked twice I will post twice...well just in case people come across this posting.

Here is the part number from my invoice for the longer U-bolts for the moded B-codes.

<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 itxtNodeId="59" itxtHarvested="0"><TBODY itxtNodeId="193" itxtHarvested="0"><TR itxtNodeId="203" itxtHarvested="0"><TD class=NOBORDER align=left itxtNodeId="229" itxtHarvested="0">N811667-S436</TD><TD class=NOBORDER align=left itxtNodeId="228" itxtHarvested="0">U-Bolt - M16-2.0x108/320</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Ford does not sell a center pin so I picked one up from the local spring shop. It was 6" long and I believe it was 7/16 of an inch.

The center bolt I got is a bit long but I didn't know what my end result was going to be. You can get away with a 5" bolt.

Tim M
<!-- / message -->

 

I'm sorry buddy. I never received notification someone replied to thread...
I measured them after complition and had a local shop bend them up.
I could measure them up if you want. Plenty of creeper room under the truck now...

 

Guys, where is the Free Parts Thread now? I see two are closed....

 

We should point out that 2wd Excursions (at least my 2005)
have "S" code front *COIL* springs and "A" code rear leaf springs
Not sure if this is because in '05 the SD changed to coils or not,
but it really made my searches frustrating.

Stewart,
GREAT job of compiling all this info AND putting
in comments next to the links.

 

Thanks.

Just FYI, all 2-wheel drive Excursions came with front coils. That's why the first post specifies this thread is mainly for the 4x4 Excursions.

The rear spring info does apply to the 2-wheel drive rigs too, since the springs fit.

Stewart

 

I need to change the springs on mine in a very bad way. When ordering the springs do they come in pairs or do I have to buy 4 individual springs?

 

where can I order a good sway bar kit for a excursion?

its a 2001

 

Check on eBay - i.e.

Hellwig 7643- Sway Bar (1 1/4" diameter) [Rear] | eBay

 

does it make a big difference?