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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:45 AM
  #1  
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Excursion Handling

I'm new to this forum and poked around a little in past threads for answers, but didn't look too hard. So sorry if this has been repeated in the past.....

I've been a long time 3/4 Suburban Owner, but bought an '00 Excursion 7.3l 6 months ago because I wanted the Diesel. My Sub was always rock solid with a trailer behind it. My Ex seems to sway and wonder like crazy. I know that with 100k my front end is a little loose, so I took a friend's brand new '05 for a spin with the same trailer. His was better, but still had the same traits. Is this common for an Ex? Are there reasonable solutions?

Thanks......
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:57 AM
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 10:13 AM
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A lot of the people in here say good things about Hellwig anti-sway bars. Do a search on that and you should find an answer.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 12:44 PM
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The '05 should have a factory rear bar. A lot of people swear by radius rods or some other form of traction bar to stop the rear from pitching. The stockers only work in one direction. And then there's shocks............
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SledHauler
I've been a long time 3/4 Suburban Owner, but bought an '00 Excursion 7.3l 6 months ago because I wanted the Diesel. My Sub was always rock solid with a trailer behind it. My Ex seems to sway and wonder like crazy. . . . Is this common for an Ex? Are there reasonable solutions?

Thanks......
Yes and yes.

The X's rear springs are "D" code, which means soft for a cushy ride. Mostly it works, except when you want to tow a trailer. Some people switch out to heavier F250 or F350 rear springs. Sounds like a lot of work to me. Good HD shocks are a must. Also add the Hellwig rear sway bar. You won't believe the difference.

You might also want to consider air bags, helper springs or Timbrens.

I added Rancho shocks, Hellwig, Timbrens and a Hensley Arrow hitch. My X tows better than my '99 F250 now. Except for the hitch, the other mods only cost around $500.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I've done some more digging and see a lot about the Helwig Sway bars and different shocks. Those will go on for sure. Hopefully that will take care of it. If not, I'll look into LandYots radius rods that I've also seen a lot on or I'll steel a friends set of air bags.


Thanks again......
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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You did not say, but assume you have the 4x4. This means rear axle has maximum leverage on rear springs due to lifting block between top of axle and bottom of spring(s).

Bang for the buck:

1) Landyot's Radius Rods are best investment.
2) Hellwig anti-sway bar.

Actually, do the Hellwig bar first, it is easiest to install. Then, do the radius rods.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 06:59 PM
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get the sway bar installed. big improvement.
tires are also a issue to consider. are those Ds or Es your running? how much air.

spring issues you should be able to seperate from sway issues, and the fixes are very different. stop the sway, and a lot of guys reccomend air-bags. f250 springs are softer then what you have stock, f350s are not.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 01:52 AM
  #9  
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Replacing/adding sway bars, shocks, etc. treat the symptoms, and are better than nothing...

...BUT

...LandYot's Radius Rods TREAT THE DISEASE, and are the "CURE"

I would fix the problem first, then if you still want to tinker with add-ons to improve handling once you solve the actual design flaw, put on a fatter sway bar (if you don't off-road much) and better shocks are definitely worth doing eventually as well, I love my Bilsteins compared to the brand-new Ford OEM shocks my '05 came with...



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2005 EXCURSION LIMITED Eddie Bauer edition 4X4 PSD
4" FabTech lift/level, Bilstein mono-gas shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Silverstars, BFG 295/75/16 AT KO's on Factory Mags
LANDYOT Generation II Radius Rods, Ford factory hood insulator
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 02:00 AM
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if you are going to tow or just want it to handle right you need the following on any x
RADIUS RODS KEN IS STARTING A NEW BATCH IN MARCH I THINK
SHOCKS I LIKE BILSTIENS
AIRBAGS I LIKE THE FIRESTONES
HELLWIG SWAYBAR
DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTOR ON ALL 4 CORNERS TO HELP WITH STOPPING AND THE COMMON ROTOR WARPING I ALSO ADDED THE REAL NICE CERAMIC PADS ON ALL 4 CORNERS TO CUT DOWN ON DUST TOTALLY DIFFERANT TRUCK WITH THESE ADD ONS!
i had a buddy almost wreck my x when i first got it from hitting some railroad tracks at 70mph it went all over the road and seemed to dribble the front tires when i bought it on the way home it hit a pot hole on the interstate and about pulled me off the road! no i pull my 7x16 drag bike trailer to the track 70-80mph with 1or2 fingers on the steering wheel. given i dont tow what it is capable of i have pulled a large tractor for a buddy once and it handle good,and another buddys drag car. if you set it up right it will do what you want all day long.
 

Last edited by jscarb2; Feb 8, 2006 at 02:06 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:50 AM
  #11  
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Landyot will even tell you, like he did me, start with the sway bar. Bang for the buck, a top performer.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 07:17 AM
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It's actually nice to see everyone center in on the same couple of mods. Sometime when you post questions on message boards, you get a ton of different answers and have to still figure it out for yourself.

I'll answer a couple questions from above..... The truck right now is all stock and wont see off-road (that's what my Jeep is for). It's not the around town vehicle that my Sub was so it's been devoted to only travel. It will pull my Jeep, sleds, & motor cycle. The sled trailer is the worst since the wind area on the sides is so big. Passing or getting past by semi's is down right scary! The tires are 265 BFG All Terrains (load D) and I keep them maxed at the tire's rating of 60#.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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If you get the chance call us up. Our 2000 Excursion did the same thing. We haul about 12k pounds of Pulling Truck and gear in the summer time. Larry can tell you the scary differance lol. That thing is now Rock solid. We have a special Innovative Diesel SCT Excal2 tuner coming in this week so that we can pull the 1000hp beast and unhook the Ex and give her hell aswell! We can get you all the things you need for that fix. good luck!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #14  
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There was a "voluntary" limited time recall on my "01 to replace the stockDs with Es. Just that change is big. Thicker walls and more air.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Forest
Bang for the buck:

1) Landyot's Radius Rods are best investment.
2) Hellwig anti-sway bar.

Actually, do the Hellwig bar first, it is easiest to install. Then, do the radius rods.
I have a 2005 6.0 PSD 4x4 with tow package that comes with Ford's rear sway bar. I have read that the Hellwig is better b/c it is wider, thicker but after looking at mine, it attaches to the outside of the frame. I'm wondering how theirs is "wider" and if I really just need the Landyot Rods. I know it makes sence to do the bar first if you're gonna due to order of operations, but don't want to just throw money at it. Mostly tow about a 4500# boat now, but will add a heavier camper in a year or 2.

Can anyone describe the difference in the Hellwig rear bar or have 1st hand experience in adding the Rods to the Ford rear bar?
 
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