wouldnt be the first time i was wrong about something, ill take a look next time i go... i went to check on the truck yesterday, thought i might do something to it for an hour or so, but its -4* windchill right now, so i just sat in my nissan staring at it, wishing i could drive it home..my wife says im loosing my mind.....


...yeah the vent tube was what i was thinking, even though i didnt post it..lol......

 

I am pretty sure that it comes out by pressing a button under it. I do not have my switch in the truck right now, so if I can find it, i'll take a picture.

 

finally got a pic of my rear driveshaft, i may have to shim the axle down a bit, its too straight IMO...the yolk at the Tcase looks like it should be ok...sorry for the crap pics, the lighting has to be right for my phone to take a good pic...




soon as the weather warms up im gonna get my front shaft measured out, then ill cut and weld it, i probably gotta cut about 5.5"s out of it.... but a -5* windchill doesnt make me want to work outside much...

 

How can it be too straight? I thought thats what you wanted in a driveshaft..?

 

It should be fine where its at, as long as you don't have a traction bar. The springs will twist ever so slightly and it will change the pinion angle a couple degrees when under power.

 

on a rear axle, you want your pinion angled down a couple degree's..that way when you stomp the gas, the pinion lifts up straightening itself out...when its totally straight and you hit the gas, the pinion lifts and can cause binding...on your front axle you want the pinion a couple degrees higher than straight, because it pushes down under load...mine probably isnt gonna be a problem, only one way to find out...im going to mess with the truck today, hopefully ill get my front drive shaft measured, cut, and welded...

 

I've never worried about driveshaft angles. All I know is that it doesn't bind and thats all that matters lol.

 

if it works, run the crap out of it!!! but, my bro didnt worry about his angle in his samurai when he put dana 44's under it...it was fine when he was running a four banger...when he put a V8 in it things changed...as soon as you would hit the gas it would bind the rear joint and either yank it out of the slip, or just explode the whole joint and yoke...now he has changed the pinion angle to comensate ( i think he was tired of me ragging on him )...since he upgraded to a 500HP crate 383 he made his own traction bar on the passenger side that helped emmensly...i really doubt ill have a problem with my truck, but with those half ton rear springs, im expecting a fair amount of axle wrap..it will probably end up with some form of traction bar...i just pray my front shaft has a decent angle...i have to eliminate the double joint in the shaft, because since i swapped in the 205, the double joint no longer clears the tranny pan..so i got another yoke to weld in...

 

I will probably do some stuff to the rear soon. I want to get rid of some axle hope I have. Its not really bad with 31's cause they break through and burn rubber for quite a while, but with the 37's it has now, it likes to hop around a lot. Not so bad in drive, but 1st gear or anything it jumps.

 

thats how i predict mine will act.....if i ever get the SOB running....lol

 

Yeah, I need to get mine running RIGHT. Lol, wiring issues here I think too.

So whats the progress atm?

 

well, i was messing with it last night, and now im even more confused on the wiring than when i started....

according to my wiring diagram, there are four wires (out of the six wires) that come out of the brain box, that all go in one connector..they are supposed to go straight to the dizzy...so i wired them that way...well, now i found a harness that connects to them at the brain, and that set of wires goes into the cab, and then i found another set (same color wires and same connector) that are hanging out of the plastic wire collector that runs along the firewall from the driver side to the pass side...so i guess i gotta come from THAT connector to the dizzy...but there are two other plugs there with it...main problem is its a 76 cab and a 78 chassis and motor, so some of the plugs are different...im going to take my diagram to pullapart and see if i can make any sense out of it while looking at a 76...i didnt think the dizzy harness needed to go inside the cab, but it was getting dark so i wrapped it up....on the bright side, i got a headlight switch stick and got the lights off....oh the wiper control stick is not removeable, and is round instead of triangular like the light switch.. i tried on many trucks at P-A-P yesterday, because i found black ***** in a newer van i want to use..just FYI......i also got my front driveshaft measured out, now i gotta take it somewhere and cut and weld it up...

 

The wiring is really symple for the dura spark. Only 3 wires go to the distributor, onegoes to the coil(the - side of it) and the white and red are power, one power only in the start position, the other power in run. If I where you I would do some wire clean up and make a harness for the distributor and coil. If I remember right the there is a green wire, that's the one for the coil, other 3 in the 4 wire plug are for the distributor. I don't remember the colers off hand, black, purple and some other color I think.

 

thats what i did, but then i found the connectors that run in and out of the cab..so if i hook up those connectors it would go from the brain, in the cab to who knows where, then back out to the dizzy and coil..i always thought they went straight from the brain to the dizzy...the connectors were tucked back in behind stuff and i didnt see them the first time...why would they run into the cab anyways?? i guess im gonna go search the electrical forums and the 73-79 forums...

 

ok i did a bit of searching, and found this page:

1968 Ford F250 4x2 - '74-'79 Duraspark

it has some usefull info, like why some connectors were changed through the years ( to allow for voltage changes, and to not let people hook it up wrong)

here are diagrams for 76's and 78's..




for some reason the connector between the brain and dizzy, routes in and the out of my 76 cab....i dont know where they go inside, but according to this is shouldnt matter as long as i hook it up the way the pic shows...which by the way, IS how i did it on my own...i guess ill just leave the other plugs alone....i dont remember if the brain on my 78 body had that extra set of wires, but i dont think they would be crucial because its not in a high altitude area, which is what the barametric switch is for...or do i need to get a brain for a 78, because the 76 brain wont work on the 78 ignition??