76 supercab on singlecab frame
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
THATS his name, i found him once but couldnt a second time, thanks....i will look him up for sure, unless you happen to have a link.....
ok, well i was in the shop saturday and FINALLY did the spring swap on my truck....the cab still isnt mounted properly so dont hate on the crookedness, it will be fixed this week...anyways, i put 1/2 ton springs out back, then moved my 3/4 tons up front...it gave me just shy of 4 inches of lift up front, and the back stayed pretty much the same....it moved my front axle forward 4 inches, which will give be a much better approach angle after i trim the fenders and lower grill....hopefully ill have the cab mounts on before next weekend, and have the driveshafts figured out... we shall see...here are some before and after lift pics....
Before
After
ok, well i was in the shop saturday and FINALLY did the spring swap on my truck....the cab still isnt mounted properly so dont hate on the crookedness, it will be fixed this week...anyways, i put 1/2 ton springs out back, then moved my 3/4 tons up front...it gave me just shy of 4 inches of lift up front, and the back stayed pretty much the same....it moved my front axle forward 4 inches, which will give be a much better approach angle after i trim the fenders and lower grill....hopefully ill have the cab mounts on before next weekend, and have the driveshafts figured out... we shall see...here are some before and after lift pics....
Before
After
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
anyways, i put 1/2 ton springs out back, then moved my 3/4 tons up front...it gave me just shy of 4 inches of lift up front, and the back stayed pretty much the same....it moved my front axle forward 4 inches, which will give be a much better approach angle after i trim the fenders and lower grill
kubota had his truck setup almost identical to AZFord4x4's
here is a whole picture gallery of his work...
Wrench and Wreck
here's a couple of pics for ya...
-cutts-
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
thanks cutts. that helped alot!! any idea what size tires those are in those pics?? are they 44"s?? im still debating on what size i should get with what gears, although i think i can only go to 5.38s, but i dont remember....
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 390
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From: OR
thats how i ran my old white truck and that combination was almost perfect... especially for free springs and hardware!
kubota had his truck setup almost identical to AZFord4x4's
here is a whole picture gallery of his work...
Wrench and Wreck
here's a couple of pics for ya...
-cutts-
kubota had his truck setup almost identical to AZFord4x4's
here is a whole picture gallery of his work...
Wrench and Wreck
here's a couple of pics for ya...
-cutts-
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
yeah he was on the cover.....i seen it in the link that fishy posted above....pretty cool, i guess the truck has gotten personal with a few rocks since then.....does anybody know what his wheelbase is there??
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From: okc
this is were i want to get the body to sit, maybe an inch or two higher in front, but im still working on how im gonna mount it yet....i have a question for anybody that might know....since i moved the axle forward, obviously i now have steering issues....my 3 1/2" dropped pitman arm should be here wednesday, so what company sells crossover arms for a HP king pin D60????? until i get a crossover arm, im going to buy some TRE's and make a short drag link (or just shorten my stock one) to be able to steer it around the shop, and to maybe do a test run or two out on the back lot....im wondering if that shortend drag link will cause a geometry issue with the steering, like not being able to turn one way or something.....
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,149
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From: GA
the shortened draglink will make it even more sensitive to suspension travel.
You can pick up just about any crossover arm for a hp60...it will work fine. I would reccomend one that uses a stud kit
BTF makes some very nice stuff, but im not up to snuff like i used to be
when i did my setup i used the same drop pitman arm you have pointed to the back of the truck. 1.75" 3/8" walla dom. And the es 2026 and es2027 chevy TRE's You have to use a tapered reamer to bore the pitman arm out to fit the larger taper. Buy the crossover arm for chevy tre's. Also make sure you get the correct size and thread inserts and jam nuts to weld into your tubing.
I wouldnt spend the time or money to make a temp arm...you will be kicking yourself after you see how easy the crossover is to do
You can pick up just about any crossover arm for a hp60...it will work fine. I would reccomend one that uses a stud kit
BTF makes some very nice stuff, but im not up to snuff like i used to be
when i did my setup i used the same drop pitman arm you have pointed to the back of the truck. 1.75" 3/8" walla dom. And the es 2026 and es2027 chevy TRE's You have to use a tapered reamer to bore the pitman arm out to fit the larger taper. Buy the crossover arm for chevy tre's. Also make sure you get the correct size and thread inserts and jam nuts to weld into your tubing.
I wouldnt spend the time or money to make a temp arm...you will be kicking yourself after you see how easy the crossover is to do
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,149
Likes: 2,633
From: GA
you kind kind of see what i did here
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...112187.520.390
I would highly reccomend building a strong tie rod while you are at it...because your stock one wont last long...i went through many of them. Or just weld a peice of angle iron all the way across it and that will hold it for awhile.
That brings up another issue...once you go crossover...you will want hydro assist....
If i had it to do over again knowing what i know now, i would have done full hydro with the tie rod mounted on top of the knuckles to begin with..
Either that or hydro assist with crossover and the tie rod mounted above the leaf springs on top of the knuckles.
Dont forget to beef your front diff cover too!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...112187.520.390
I would highly reccomend building a strong tie rod while you are at it...because your stock one wont last long...i went through many of them. Or just weld a peice of angle iron all the way across it and that will hold it for awhile.
That brings up another issue...once you go crossover...you will want hydro assist....
If i had it to do over again knowing what i know now, i would have done full hydro with the tie rod mounted on top of the knuckles to begin with..
Either that or hydro assist with crossover and the tie rod mounted above the leaf springs on top of the knuckles.
Dont forget to beef your front diff cover too!
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
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From: Senoia, GA
yea if i were you just do it right the first time. and i would get that steering up as high as possible. you dont think you will hit it on stuff even in a mud truck, but you will and not know it!
i used shakerbuilt and i thought his customer service was great. one thing i liked about using him is when you order the parts he taps the DOM for you instead of needing the inserts. however that means you have to know the exact length you need. with the inserts you have to drill the ends out but you can cut it to any length you need.
a word of advice... the reamer can be bought at complete offroad and its really not the expensive. i have used mine more than I thought i would... it has paid for itself a few times.
however, although much more expensive than doing hydro assist if this truck isnt going to see much street use i would highly recommend full hydro! i cant WAIT to get mine one in the next few weeks (soon as I finish the motor)
-cutts-
i used shakerbuilt and i thought his customer service was great. one thing i liked about using him is when you order the parts he taps the DOM for you instead of needing the inserts. however that means you have to know the exact length you need. with the inserts you have to drill the ends out but you can cut it to any length you need.
a word of advice... the reamer can be bought at complete offroad and its really not the expensive. i have used mine more than I thought i would... it has paid for itself a few times.
however, although much more expensive than doing hydro assist if this truck isnt going to see much street use i would highly recommend full hydro! i cant WAIT to get mine one in the next few weeks (soon as I finish the motor)
-cutts-
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Postmaster
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From: okc
great info guys, thanks a bunch........the main reason im gonna make a short drag link is that i am working on my truck at the speed shop i work at, and have to be able to move it around when needed...im probably not gonna be able to get the crossover arm for a week or two, but its definitely the way im going in the end....anybody else know of crossover arm companies?? im gonna ask our supplier if they deal with BTF, but it would be nice to have a couple other names to check on since my supplier dont even list crossover arms in there computer, but if they can get with the right company i will get our company discount and save some change...i just paid 55 bucks for my dropped pitman arm, which isnt alot cheaper, but still cheaper than most ive seen for sale...hey fishy, got any number specs on that reamer, i might be able to "Borrow" one from our snap-on tool rep one day......i know i sound cheap, but my 1 year old baby girl is soaking up my fun money, so this is the low budget bogger of the century, but will still be built right in the end...thanks guys.....
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
Poly Performance
Sky Manufacturing
Mad 4WD
Ballastic Fabrication
Complete Offroad
Offroad Design
Shaffers Offroad
I PM'd you the specs!
-cutts-
Sky Manufacturing
Mad 4WD
Ballastic Fabrication
Complete Offroad
Offroad Design
Shaffers Offroad
I PM'd you the specs!
-cutts-