Thought about that too after I posted that.

 

Did you make it down on wednesday to get registered? I was only able to hang out there for about 35 minutes before i had to head out.

Hows the engine coming? Did you guys get the pushrod length figured out?

I welded up my crossmember today (had a fun time finding someone to sell me just 6' of steel) everywhere wanted to sell me 24 feet at the minimum so, thankfully, my girlfriends stepdad stepped in and gave me the metal i needed to build the crossmember!!!

ALL i have to do tomorrow is trim the ends a little bit, weld in the mounting flanges on the frame, and bolt it in and it will be a tire change, and strapping the fuel tank away from a test drive!!



I decided to go for broke this year, and registered for a couple classes at Bandimere. My girlfriend went even further and registered for one more class than i did!


I had a small transmission leak and a small power steering leak reveal itsself while i had the car running, so as soon as i get it drivable ill be taking it over to a friends where there is a lift and doing some gasket / o-ring replacing on it, the break in oil and filter change, and take a final inspection of my work before slapping the slicks on it and throwing my racer number on the windows.

 

I wasn't able to make it to Denver on Wednesday. Finally sold our house so I thought that I should go to work for a change to help pay for the new house. Probably going to have to get the truck inspected and register soon though. Had to spend all of today talking to real estate agents but my dad finally got the oil pan on after taking the girlde off 4 times to get everything just right so nothing was rubbing. He said the next problem was the ARP head studs. We bought the hex nuts instead of the 12 pt nuts to save a $80 and they don;t work because the nut is so close to the rocker arm stud tower that you can't get a wrench on them to torque them down. So we had to buy 12 point nuts tonight. It really puts a hold on the truck since they want be here until friday and on saturday we are going to Bakersfield for the March Meet so we will lose a week out the deal. Going to take the box off tomorrow and take the ladder bars out so we can weld up the safety straps. Going to ge the motor mounts finished and work on the transmission. Also got the fire extinguisher mounted today but forgot the camera at home.

It looks like the intake pushrods are close enough that we are going to run them. The exhaust pushrods are way too short so we are ordering those on monday. Crane has a 48 hr shipping setup so we should get them by the weekend.

Glad to here the Dodge is almost race ready. What classes did you register for at bandimere? I need to find a list of what is available to see what we could run. I think that we are going to run at Doulgas 95% of the time and a few times in Denver, Pueblo and Julesberg. Going to try King Street this year and run for points since the Division 5 finals are at Bandimere this year instead of Heartland park.

 

I registered for Street ET, Club Clash, and Run Tuff. Pretty much every friday and every saturday plus i will be running 85% of the special events thruout the year if money permits.

I had the same problem with the head bolts on my chevy in my old chevelle, only it was the pushrod guides that were keeping me from getting a socket on the head bolts to torque them down. I ended up just taking the rocker studs, and pushrod goudes out of the heads, torquing the heads to the block, then re-assembling the head hardware.

There are going to be a ton of all fri-sat-sun weekends this year at Bandimere. I am hoping to get up there in points this year since the Div 5 finals are going to be at home.

 

I am assuming you are running a NON DOT slick in the rear of your truck.

Running a full drag slick, you will be able to run Super Pro (7.00 - 12.75) PRO ET ( 9.50 - 13.8) Run Tuff (10.00 - 18.00) Trophy / Jackpot (7.50 and slower)

I dont see anything in the "rule book" saying you have to run a DOT slick in King Street...but you might want to do some checking on that, because even tho it is far from it, it is a street oriented class.

 

Definately not running street legal tires. What is run tuff? I am all for running classes that are more street oriented. In douglas they allow you to run king street but they are pretty easy going, maybe too much sometimes. I remember a few years back when all the Denver king street guys used to run in douglas. I am pretty sure none wer street legal but they sure hauled a$$. One guy in a kinda orange chevelle had to run valve cover spacers since his .900 life cam caused the rocker arms to hit the valve covers.

 

Is there a list of classes on the bandimere website? i can't seem to find one

 

The bandimere website is down right now, but in their racer section they should have a link to the racer handbook in a .PDF format (adobe reader) the racer handbook has class designations and rules in it, i believe.

 

Took the box off today again. Had to put the safety straps on the ladder bars so they would be legal. Also put the heads on for the last time. Painted the engine and installed the timing chain cover. Kinda of at a standstill as we wait for 12 pt arp nuts and the pushrods. Should be able to finish the engine on saturday. plan for the weekend is to take the truck for a bath, finish engine and finish ladder bars/set box for the last time.

 

Drove the dodge today over to my friends shop to finish come welds up... Backing it out of the shop the engine froze up. No noises, no knocks, 60 PSI oil pressure.

You might be finished before i am.

 

Well i had a bad day at work but not as bad as yours. That is weird that there was no warning. Let me know what it looks like inside if you tear it down. Sorry about the bad luck. Still have 5-6 weeks to figure something out or get a new credit card.

 

My roller lifter broke on sunday and ruined my cam. The track is opening this weekend and I was pumped to make my first 10 second pass. I guess it will have to wait.

 

Are you running crane roller lifters by any chance? We have been running the cranes and have had nothing but bad luck. Can't replace them right now since they are about $500 so we are going to try them again.

 

No it was all Comp stuff. It might of been my fault and the cam is a bit too big for the street but it was in the motor when I bought it. I have my old motor I could put back in but I don't wanna go 12s again, lol. I was told the Crane lifters were better because they have oiling holes.

 

The problem we have always had with the Cranes is that they won't bleed off and act like solid lifters. When they do that it throws the geometry off and the pushrod comes out or the rocker arm falls off. we have had it happen on two sets.